Transcript for Eliza R. Snow journals, 1846-1951
[June] Sat.12th Bade farewell to many who seemed dearer to me than life &, seated in the carriage with sis. P. M. & E. I took my departure from Winter Quarters. It commenc'd raining soon after our start—one of br. P. drivers had the misfortune to break his wagon tongue which was soon repair'd—we travel'd 7 ms [miles]. the weather became fine & we encamp'd at night having 14 wagons in com[pany]. I felt a loneliness for a while after parting with my friends but the spirit of consolation & rejoicing return'd & I journey'd with good cheer.
Sn. 13th The day fine—we met Parley returning to town—arriv'd at the [Elk] Horn [River] just before sunset—my feelings were very peculiar thro' the day—it verily seem'd that the glory of God rested down on the wagons (21 in No.) and overspread the prairie.
June Mo. 14th Cross'd the river, which is a muddy, swift running stream—, on a raft in the afternoon—before which sis. Smith, Thm [Thompson], & Sess[ions] came to our carriage—we had an interesting time—sis. P. & sis. T. spoke in tongues & many interesting things were said.
After crossing I went to sis. Sess.' tent, spoke to Lucina & Mary about their relationship, &c, & was made to rejoice in hearing them speak in the gift of tongues.
Tu. 15th. The brethren call a meeting around a Liberty pole which was erected yesterday, for the purpose of organizing the camp—judg'd to be more than 300 wagons cross'd over at noon this day—This afternoon several of the sis. met in a little circle on the prairie in front of our wagons. Br. Pierce met with us—fath[er] Smith stay'd until sent for on business—we had a good time, altho' the prairie wind was somewhat annoying. Sis. Sess., Chase & E. present. Rec.[eived] a letter from S. M. Kimball.
Wed. 16th. When I left Winter Quarters, Sis. Young wish'd me to write a few lines to her. In compliance with her request wrote the following:
To Mrs. Mary Ann Young
Mother of mothers! Queen of queens,
For such thou truly art—
I pray the Lord to strengthen thee
And to console thy heart.
From infancy thou hast been led
And guided by his hand
That thou in Zion's courts may tread
And in thy station stand.
Thou'rt highly favor'd of the Lord
And Thou art greatly blest;
Most glorious will be thy reward
In peace & joy, & rest.
Altho thou hast been called to share
In sorrow and distress.
That thou thru suff'ring might prepare
The broken heart to bless,
Thou wilt arise o'er ev'ry ill
O'er ev'ry weakness too.
Now God will in thy path distil
His grace like morning dew.
O let thy heart be comforted
And never never fear
The Saints of God will pray for thee
And seek thy heart to cheer.
Yes, evermore rejoice in God
Amid thy toil and care
Thy mind is pure, thy sphere is broad
And great thy labors are.
The Lord will pour his blessings forth
And thee forever raise
And many nations of the earth
Will hear & speak thy praise.
This day met Mary Ellen, Mary A. & sis. Smithies at fath. Sess.—had an interesting interview—sis. Smithies spoke in a new tongue—Mary E. interpreted. Sis. Sess. & I took a walk, call'd at P. P. P.'s—had a conversation with him—I sang a song of Zion to his family. Sis. Sess. interpreted.
Th 17th. Call'd in the morning at sis. Thompson's tent—sis. Smith present—sent for sis. Sess[ions]. br. Lawson spoke in tongues. After sis. Sess. & I left, he sang a song & interpreted. Sis. T. also sang & br. L. interpreted..bless the Lord O my soul for these bless's [blessings] I went home with sis. S.—wrote in her letter to sis. Pratt. We
Fr. 18th Had a treat of the spirit in the wagon. sis. Moore & sis. Sess. pr't[present]. In the aft. attended meeting at sis. Beaches'—most of br. Pratt's fam[ily] pr't—had a refreshing time.
Sis. Sess. & I went to br. Hunter's, found sis. H. out of health—I told them I had long desired to bless sis. H.—went into the wagon—I spoke to br. H. in the gift of tongues, sis. S. interpreted, after which br. H., sis. S. & I laid hands on sis. H.'s head & rebuk'd her illness & bless'd her. I then sang a song to them & sis. S. sang the interpretation. Susannah present & arose & bless'd sis. H. This day br. Spencer's hundred leave & move forward.
Sat. 19th Our division under J[edediah M.] Grant leave the Horn—we soon come in sight of the com[pany] that started yes[terday]. Near the place of their last night encampment they found the carcass of a man recently kill'd, and pick'd by the wolves—many papers were found which designated him to have been an Officer from St. Louis. —We encamp'd on the Platte river—about 15 ms. from where we cross'd the [Elk] Horn. The pole of Liberty with the white flag waving was erected by the com. that preceded us—we saw it several miles distant.
Su. 20th This mor. heard the painful news of a combat between Jacob Weatherbie & another br. & three Indians. Br. W. was shot by one of the Indians thro' the body, while endeavoring to prevent them robbing his wagon. Those 2 brethren had been sent back to Winter Quarters on business, & were at the time of the encounter about 7½ ms. on the other side the Horn. My health ill today, not able to attend the general meeting, but sis. [Phoebe Ogden] Chase, Sessions, &c, met with us at br. [Robert] Peirce's wagons, & we had a rejoicing time.
Our manner of encampment which we commenced last night is by joining the wagons in a circle, so as to form a yard for the herd; each hundred by itself.
Mo. 21st The Artillery does not arrive—we do not journey. Br. Weatherbie died yest.
Tu. 22. The Camp mov'd, traveling 5 & 6 abreast—we follow up the Platte—& at night encamp near it, having travelled perhaps 14 or 15 ms. The road & the country delightful.
Wed. 23. We go 2 abreast. Capt. Smoot's com. stops for the night by a small stream, a mile or so in our rear, we a ½ m. in Taylor's rear & Parley 5 ms. in advance of us. Our place is very delightful—a short grass which is a sweet treat for the herd, overspreads an extensive plain, the river forming almost a half circle, while rich clusters of trees are to be seen in every direction.
Thu. 24th. Capt. Grant's com. start at 7— Pass'd J. T.'s com. who rode past us on horseback & order'd J. Grant to stop. Pres't. J. Young told him to drive on—J. T. came back & told our captains of tens to stop for their leaders were in rebellion—he soon past us again on his way to Parley's camp. We travelled 10 ms. Stop'd at half past one in the rear of P.'s. A meeting in the eve—matters adjusted with good feeling.
Fr. 25th. Meeting in the mor.—travelled 12 ms. in 2 files as yesterday—the wind & dust almost intolerable.
Sat. 26th Travel upwards of 20 ms., 2 abreast, cross the Looking—Glass creek—encamp on Beaver—one com. cross over—rains at night.
Su. 27th I have been very sick, rode on bed the last 2 days—sis. Sess. Lucina & sis. Leonard came to the wagon—the pow'r of God rested on me—my disease was rebuk'd, & I prais'd the name of the Most High. The wagons are crossing the stream thro' the day—In the eve br. Lawson, sis. T. &c came to our place & we had another refreshing from the Lord—Praise Him, all ye Saints.
Mo. 28th Our time delay'd in crossing the Creek—rumor'd that a war party of Ind[ians] are gather'd—broke 2 wagon tongues in our Ten. cross'd Indian Creek—passed 2 cornfields, some habitations & overtake J. T.'s division late in the eve—some of the inhabitants visit us, one man who is appointed to aid the Ind. in building barracks, &c Trav[eled] about 7 ms.
Tu. 29th Pass'd the Pawnee town, which seem'd entirely deserted—the scenery is much more variegated than before—it is now quite rolling—cross'd a sandy bottom'd stream in sight of the Indian settlement—travel1'd 16 ms., encamp'd in front of several wigwams. J. T. before us & P. behind.
Wed 30. The day cool—Capt. P's ten take the lead of J[edediah]. G[rant].'s hnd [hundred]—soon after we start P.'s & the other com.'s come in sight—J. T. is moving on in front—we are on an extensive prairie with little shrubbery & the camp can be view'd at once, which presents a very imposing sight—had the pleasure of seeing a herd of antelopes running in every direction. Stop'd about one o'clock by the side of a stream & near its mouth. P. rides forward—thinks best to cross the Platte.
Sis. Chase, [Hannah Harvey] Peirce, Hendricks, &c, call into br. [Joseph Bates] Noble's with me—sis. [Mary Adeline Beman] N[oble] receives the gift of tongues—sis. Hunter call'd at the carriage—had a good time—she said had been better since sis. Sess. & I call'd on her. Trav. 8 ms.
July Th 1st We cross'd the Platte, or rather what is call'd Lupe's Fork; J. T.'s com. cross'd first, J[edediah]. G[rant].s follow'd & [Abraham O.] Smoot's & [Daniel] Spencer's, & when we left, Parley's was crossing. We went about 5 ms. & encamp'd without wood or water, with J. T. 3 ms. in our front. Br. P. is somewhat afflicted with sore eyes.
Fr. 2nd Start'd forward, the prairie very rolling. We only ascend one ridge to come in sight of another, till about 2 o'clock, when a gradual descent gave us a view of the tops of trees, which skirt the river before us. The teams begin to fail for want of water—a very heavy show'r reviving them & turns our sandy road to mud, travell'd 6 abreast some of the time. Trav. 16 ms. Capt. Neff leads our Com.
sat 3. The day fine, travel'd 14 ms., & encamp late on a stream in view of the Platte—cross'd a stream in the mor. In the aft. go 4 abreast—come into the trail of the Pioneers. Br. Russell finds a bucket which he had given to H. C. K.
Su. 4th Rains in forenoon—meeting in the aft. Martha, Louisa, & Edith come to the wagon to me—L. & E. receive the gift of tongues. Sis. Taylor, Hunter, Smoot & call in the eve.
Mo. 5th Trav. 12 ms. P. takes the lead of the 2 Divisions. [Josiah] Miller leads in our hundred. we cross the stream in the mor., each 50 making a fording place, & we enter upon Grand Island & where we encamp at night. a board is found on which the Pioneers had written, computing the distance 217 ms. from W[inter] Quarters.
Tu. 6th Our Com. start at about 8 o'clock, after forming on the trail, stop until P. passes—J. T. in the rear—we stop to water & bait [feed] at noon—awhile after we move on, our fifty was stop'd, said to be thro' J. T.'s orders—br. [Asahel Albert] Lathrop who leads today went to J. G. to know what to do, as J. T. demanded the roads: J. G. said he would as soon give the roads as not, if J. T.'s teams would give us room to go out, but as they were on our right & a slue [slough] on our left, it was not practicable—Perhaps 15 of T.'s wagons had come alongside— the rest were in the rear—J. G. told L[athrop]. to go on & he went on himself with the other 50. J. T. came up & order'd us to stop—at length the 250 halted till we overtook them—in the meantime J. T.'s wagons crowd into our path—we all stop'd for his com[pany] to pass, except 5 wagons that waited till our Com. pass'd by them for the nearest point of timber, where we encamp on the bank of the Platte, with the timber all on the opposite side—bro. [A. O.] Smoot where we stop'd at noon & P. & T. in sight several ms. in front.
I breakfasted on antelope—quite a treat—trav. 15 ms..
W. 7th Capt. P. leads our 50— after starting we were told to leave the beaten tracks and each 50 break a new one—it made hard riding for me, yet I felt like submitting to "the pow'rs that be" & endure it altho' the roads were unoccupied—after our nooning we came where br. [Chas. C.] Rich was baiting [feeding], having broken 2 wagons—we pass'd them, but perhaps an hour after br. Lathrop came up, telling br. P. that Rich demanded the roads which we took afternoon—br. P. said the command had not come to him from proper authority, it being from Grant instead of [Joseph Bates] Noble, the capt. of our 50, and we went on—encamp'd a mile from the river, trav. 14 ms.—Sis. [Anna Maria Malin] Wiler [Weiler] sent me a bush with tomatoes, also a flower resembling the Geranium—the prickly pear is common.
Th. 8. Started 10 m[inutes] after 8—cross'd a ravine—Br. P. & T.'s com. bend their course to the river, which is far to our left— we cross their roads & encamp near a slue. Show'r at night. Trav. 14 ms.
fr. 9th Capt. [Josiah] Miller broke a wagon crossing a ravine yest. & we do not start till nearly noon—the other hds [hundreds] out of sight & encamp on the Platte. Had meeting in br. [James] Hendrick's wagon—2 of his daughters & B[righam H.] Young's wife speak with the gift of tongues for the first time. Praise the Lord, O my soul! Trav. 12 ms.
The prairie presents a beautiful appearance, resembling the tame meadows where red-top is cultivated.
Sat. 10th Soon after starting cross the tracks of P. P. P. and J. T.'s com[panies]. the whole camp encamp early on the Platte which is judg'd about a m[ile] in width—not timber on this side—this is a buffalo country. Trav. 8 m.
Su. 11th A public meeting at 1 o'clock. Sister Sess., Thom., Leon., Pe[i]rce & myself meet in fath. C.'s wagon at 4. The Lord pour'd out his spirit—Sis. [Elvira Annie Cowles] Holmes call'd to see me in the eve & spoke in the gift of tongues. We are said to be 180 ms. from W. Quarters. Supped on buffalo. 8 kill'd at this stop. Drank well water from br. Rich's camp.
Mo. 12th Started late in the mor. in the rear of P's. 1st 50 & alongside of his 2nd, the Camp all in sight—the prairie today is little else than a barren waste where the buffalo seem to roam freely.
Encamp at night on the side of a slue with the river a few rods beyond. Capt. N. goes in front since fr[Friday] mor., having got an addition to his team—had gone in the rear for some time in consequence of losing an ox, the night after crossing Loup Fork—all goes well—Trav. 16 ms.
Tu. 13th Start between 7 & 8——nothing remarkable except the multitude of buffalo paths which lead from the bluff to the river across our way. Capt. P. leads—our nooning is on a line of lakes or swamps which intercept watering at the river. Capt. N's. 50 are left in the rear at the watering & when we start are obliged to to go to the right, which Capt. G approbates [approves]. Capt. S. frets, &c P.'s 1st 50 in our front—his 2nd in our rear—we fall into his tracks which occasions some trouble but all is adjusted by Capt. G who acts as Pioneer. Trav. 14 ms. & enc[amp] on the river in the rear of P.—Saw buffalos & wolves.
Wed. 14th Last night or rather this mor. a frightful circumstance occur'd—the herd took fright & made a rush to the op'ning where we were—they nearly upset one of Capt. P.'s wagons, crush'd two wheels for Capt. Snow—caus'd the death of Capt. K.'s only cow & knock'd several horns from the oxen.
We stop over this day to repair Capt. S.'s wagon——The other companies go on by rising the bluff which here forms a point with the river; except Capt. Rich who remains with us & Capt. Smoot who comes up & passes the point a little before night.
Capt. G brought me a buffalo skull on which was written by the Pioneers, "All well—feed bad—are only 300 ms. from W." &c dated May 9th A large b. is divided among the hnd.
Th. 15th Started this morn. in 2 com. each 50 by itself in double file—in consequence of the fright of the cattle, our leaders think best to divide the herd, & form circles by fifties when we encamp. This mor. we ascend the bluff which forms a junction with the river—after wading over one sand hill after another we find ourselves again in the river platt with a rugged bluff at our right—This eve find beautiful springs with pure cold water—a blessing indeed. Tr. 12 ms.
fr. 16th Start at 15 m past seven—the day intensely hot—grass eat up by buffalos—when we stop for noon our 50 kill a b & we are detain'd while the other passes on—we pass springs. Trav. 9 ms.
Sat. 17th The cattle in Capt. S.'s 50 broke out last night—20 yoke of oxen cannot be found— Some men came down the river with letters—say they met the Pioneers at the South Pass—left several brethren at a ferry 125 ms beyond fort Laramy [Laramie]. Attended meeting at sis. Gates'.
Su. 18th Had 2 tents plac'd together, many sis. & several breth. meet. Br. L. presided. Sis. G. received the gift of tongues yesterday in our carriage.
Mo. 20th [19th] A number of brethren come from P. P. P.'s camp 25 ms. ahead—drive in an ox which they took from a buffalo herd on the other side the river—took supper with sis. [Elvira Annie Cowles] Holmes—had a good season in Sis. [Nancy Maria Bigelow] Love's tent. P. sent word for our com. to move up there. Here the South Fork unites with the main Platte.
Tu. 21st [20th] After much deliberation, consultation, parleying, grumbling, &c, several hunters are sent to search for the lost cattle & we move on—the first 50 in front—encamp on the river bank—in the eve. Br. Noble called our com. together for a pray'r meet[ing] which truly made our hearts rejoice—trav. 12 ms.
W. 22nd [21st] Start after 8—a little before 12 we met 2 men from P.'s camp with 17 yoke of oxen for our assistance—this is truly a land of buffalos—they are in sight all the time—an almost innumerable herd of them came over the bluff today & seem'd about to cross our Camp on their path to the river—our hunters met them & they chang'd their course, much to our gratification. The wind blew up last night & the day is cool—quite a contrast to a few days past. We cross a beautiful stream several rods in width, with quick sandy bottom & encamp near it—the 2nd 50 do not come up—Trav. 15 ms.
Th. 22nd Start a little before 8—in the forenoon a young buffalo was beeved by our hunters—it was very soon distributed among the 5 capt. & we went on—at about 11 a messenger came up from the 2nd 50 with orders for us to stop for them to take the front, which we did, when we found a proper place for baiting—our afternoon trav. was over sand: hills—cross one pretty stream—the day cool—clouds obscure the sun & threaten storm—trav. 14 ms.
Fr. 23. Rain'd in the night & a little this mor. We start before 8—trav. over sand hills, cross several beautiful little streams running down from the bluffs—no wood but b chips & what we brought from afar, the cannon from the first com. is heard and its smoke seen—the occasion is a visit of 100 Sioux as we are inform'd by brethren who visit our camp at night, which is in sight of the main body, perhaps 3 ms. distant. We pass'd some initials inscrib'd on the side of a bluff. Trav. 13 ms.
Sat. 24th We start about 7—come up with the main Camp before it leaves—the Indians throng us—sell some oxen to us[.] At noon I took a view of their town thro a spy glass— Their tents or lodges are made of skins gaily painted—they are across the river opposite us, Joseph Y. & the others who went in search of the stray cattle return with 4 head. Ledges of rock & cedar shrubbery on the opposite side of the river. We cross'd several streams & encamp in the neighborhood of Capt. Smoot. No wood. Trav. 8 ms.
Su. 25th Before we start, br. P. Young, & 9 others of the Pioneers came up, much to our joy—it was truly like clusters of grapes by the wayside—we came up with the main Camp which outstripped us yesterday; cross a stream & encamp in Taylor's Division about 11 o'clock. I saw sis. Sess. a few minutes as we pass'd P.'s Camp. A meeting call'd & one letter read from Prest. Young & one from W[illard] Richards. P. P. recommends that we travel by fifties, & those that get ready first, start first. One 50 of P.'s roll on this eve. Sis. Leonard & I have a good interview in the carriage, also at br. Noble's wagon. I write a letter to W. Quarters. P.[hineas] Y.[oung] talked of going, but relinquish'd the idea before night. Two others going—The Ind. rode with us this mor. The Bluff on the other side the river for a day or two past seems compos'd of rock. Our road continues over sand hills. We had considerable rain last night. Trav. 5 ms.
Mo. 26th Our 50 move in the rear—start about half past 8—while crossing a ridge of sand hills about noon, br. [John Taylor] Dilworth broke an axle tree, & we are detain'd till sunset—Many Ind. pass us with tents & baggage fasten'd to mules, horses & on drays form'd of tent poles drawn by horses, mules & dogs. Covers for the little ones made by fastening skins over bows which are fix'd to the upper sides of the drays.—Here we have a treat of wild currants & a kind of cherry call'd choke, but much preferable to the eastern choke cherry. Capt. N. directs us to go on at night. The moon shines beautifully & we move on with speed—come up to the Ind. tents where they come up in scores—some shake their blankets which frightens the cattle, one of Capt. P.'s broke from the yoke which occasion'd a little trouble—several came up to the carriage where I was holding the horses, sis. P. & M. being engag'd in quieting the other teams, cows, &c I made them understand that they were in danger of the horses kicking them & they withdrew We pass'd on & encamp'd a little past 11, having trav. 10 ms.
Tu. 27th Start 10 min. past 7. at 10 arrive opposite Ash hollow, where we halt for the purpose of getting timber to repair wagons in case of accident. Ate our bread up for supper & have no wood, expecting to find it last night, but thro' the kindness of Moth. [Phoebe Ogden] Chase, we are supplied with the addition of b. chips & we have a good breakfast This is the 3rd time I have done so much cooking as to bake the pan—cakes since we started—The Ind. that annoy'd us last night, pass us & strike their tents & travel with us till near night, when they fall in our rear & we encamp near them—a large com. on the other side the river. It commenced raining just as we stopped—no time to cook supper—I am quite sick this aft.—glad to crawl to bed. Trav. 12 ms.
Wed. 28th Start early—the forepart of the day very warm—clouds up afternoon & the wind blows—rains a little where we are, but this storm is most ahead. We pass the 2nd 50 & encamp in front, quite cold at night, but the rain over. Trav. 15 ms.
Th. 29th Start 20 min past 7—the 2nd 50 come in sight & we soon come nearly up with Taylor's com. The bluffs on both sides the riv.[er] are very picturesque—As we commence rising the hills, which are said to be the last between this & the Fort, we can see a singular appearing bluff which in an inhabited country might be mistaken for a large building. This is said it may be seen in 40 ms. travel. The bluffs all day present buildings, terraces, platforms, &c of every description. We encamp in front of the 2nd 50 & in sight of Taylor.
Trav. 25 ms.
Margaret look'd on ranges over the peaks & brought us wood, stones & cedar boughs. Yest. we met 5 fur trappers on horseback—they left their com. on the other side to learn who we were.
Fr. 30th Bro. Woodard came to Capt. N this mor.—told him he should leave the 50 unless he could either be paid for the work he had done or have his tools carried. We start ten min. past 7—the 2nd 50 in sight in our rear & 2 or more comp. in front. Move rapidly on with the same tranquility as yest., except Fath. [Isaac] Chase stopping a few min. to arrange his oxen. Capt. P. drove past him. The bluffs truly present views wildly magnificent. We arrive nearly opposite the peak, which we saw yest. mor., & encamp. The sun has been scorching thro' the day, tho' the nights are like Oct. I went to see sis. [Esther Shaffer] Ewing at noon, who has been very sick for some time. Br. [James] Hendricks' oxen which almost gave out yest. still travel on. Our people saw a man across the way—found him to be from California. Trav. 22 ms.
Sat. 31st Start about 7—the mor. cool—middle of the day hot—met one of the Pioneers by the name of Davenport going to Winter Quarters with a com. of fur traders—encamp between 5 & 6 in sight of Taylor's & in sight of the Chimney Peak. The bluffs are stupendous & beautiful to the lovers of nature—no wood on this side the riv. & only cedar bushes on the other—our cooking is done with fragments of flood wood & buffalo chips. The "chimney rock" or as as I nam'd it, chimney peak, is said to be precisely 20 ms. from "scotch [Scott's] bluff—we encamp about 5 ms. in rear of opposite the latter. Trav. 16 ms.
August Sun. 1st We do not trav.—this is a busy day in washing, baking, &c; the feed here is good—the 2nd 50 come up & encamp near us—some of our boys visit the "Scotch Bluff—report it to be a mile high & almost inaccessible—find a few pine trees & cedar shrubbery, currants, &c—the two com. hold meeting at 5 in the eve. After night the Capt[ain]s meet—motion'd that B[righam H.] Young go into the 2nd 50 with his Uncle J.
Mo. 2nd Start a little after 7—the forenoon very hot—clouds up & is fine travelling, with now & then a sprinkle of rain—our cattle are herded out of the yard for several past nights.
Traveled 16 miles.
Tu. 3rd The day hot—a little before night the com. halt while sis. Ewing who was taken sick 2 weeks ago, died—we turn'd down to the river & encamp'd near Taylor. The 2nd 50 not in sight—I had a 2nd chill this forenoon. sis. P. & M. quite ill with the heat—saw a bluff which is said to be 50 ms. beyond the Fort.
Trav. 15 ms.
Wed. 4th This mor. we saw many men & horses—many female faces were lighted with unusual joy at the arrival of some of the battalion from California, looking healthy & in good spirits—we ascertain'd the Com.[mander] to be Gen. Kearney, Fremont & 14 Mormon soldiers going to Ft. Leavenworth for their release, &c The Gen. had brought Fremont, he being obnoxious to our interest by prejudicing the Spaniards against us— The burial of sis. E. was attended with all the propriety circumstances would permit—after the customary dressing, the body was wrap'd in a quilt & consign'd to its narrow home without a coffin. It truly seem'd a lonely grave. Capt. P. found a wood written by the Pioneers dated 1st of June, saying 15 ms. from Ft. Laramy &c, after which we went 2 ms. & encamp'd. Today saw patches of prickly pear nearly half over the ground. Trav. 12 ms.
Th. 5. Last night, Taylor's com. which we pass'd at noon, crowded onto our herding place—the herd mixed, &c
We started this mor. after them & pass'd them & sev[eral] other comp's—pass'd a lot of Indian huts—sev. came out to meet us—all quiet—as we came up in the rear of [C. C.] Rich's com. the road on the left in which we trav. being vacant, Capt. T. trav. in it: br. Duel from the right came over & crowded in 2 wagons except this, all was harmony. We encamp near the Fording place At eve Capt. P. returns to the wigwams or rather tents—finds French gentlemen at supper with Indian servants—the meal consisted of light bread, coffee & meat serv'd on the ground with the tin dishes, &c—We have a sprinkle of rain—very dry; Indians visit us.
Trav. 12½ ms.
Fr. 6th Cross the river which here has a stony bottom—we cross below the old Fort—both are built of unburnt brick—we go 5 miles beyond & encamp before 12. Capt. Grant having sent for us to stop till they arrive—Ch.[arles Franklin] D.ecker & br. [Edmund] Ellsworth go to P.P. for permission for some to leave the Com. & go ahead—he throws the responsibility upon Capt. N., who will not take it by giving consent, &c, &c, &c The feed good on a little island—we have plenty of wood & water & before bedtime we flatter ourselves, (i.e. sis. P. & myself) that the go ahead feeling will be subdued & all stop & recruit the teams, repair wagons, &c
Moth. Chase & I have a treat in the eve. Jacob Cloward baptiz'd, &c My health much better. A Spaniard supp'd with us. Taylor enc[amped] on the other side the Island.
Sat. 7th All is well—may our union increase—but some things seem calculated to call up the feelings of the human heart & show the selfishness of man. Some of us at least feel somewhat indignant in consequence of a letter from Capt. G. to P. P. P. stating things derogatory to the benevolent feeling of the 1st 50—whether true or false may hereafter be proven. It is nearly night when they arrive—Capt. G. sick—I took dinner with sis. Holmes & supp'd with sis.[Mary Adeline Beman] Noble.
Su. 8th A little show'r at noon which is a rare thing in this country—the sisters of our [-] have a meeting S's. Taylor & Leonard came The Lord pour'd his spirit upon us in a copious effusion—sis. [Rebecca Dilworth] Writer [Riter] receiv'd the gift of tongues. A move made to start in the eve, but the cattle mix'd with other herds & takes too long to find them. Sis. P. blest M. at our meet. & in the gift of tongues & united our hands, &c
Mo. 9th Move on—leave the 2nd 50 doing their blacksmith work with coal that father Chase burnt for us, &c We are now among the much celebrated "black hills"—pass Hunter & find that P. P. has gone on—we stop by the river where we find a patch of grass, currants & buffalo berries—the country here is rugged enough—A scene fil'd with scrubby pine, hemlock, cottonwood, &c, very thinly scattered, with bluffs presenting the appearance of well fortified castles, the inhabitants of which exclude themselves from our view, altho' 2 grizzly bears have been seen. Last night had a fine shower.
Trav 5½ ms.
Tu. 10th We had a fine show'r in the night—this mor. while waiting for Capt. G. to come up, that he & Prest. [John] Y[oung]—who have trav. with the other 50, might go with us. M. baked 2 berry pies, the qualities of which are yet to be tested—we had a treat of wild goose for breakfast, which sis. Wiler's [Weiler's] driver kill'd last night. The road today is very hilly & rocky but hard, & we are not annoy'd with dust, stop & dine on our pies & milk—no feed for cattle—I rode with sis. Grant in the afternoon—she is quite feeble—cross'd some beautiful little streams towards night—one warm spring in the morning—was amus'd to see the high peak which was said to be 50 ms. this side Laramy, surrounded with a white cloud, at some distance from the summit. We encamp 30 ms. from the F[or]t.
W. 11th We cross the stream on which we encamp'd last night—I am sick all day—the road rough—considerably between bluffs—enc. on a stream near "Kimball's Springs" of good cold water. Trav.15 ms.—Rich comes up.
th. 12th Cross the stream & enc.—find more cold springs & plenty of wood—sis. N. gives birth to a fine girl [Eliza Theodocia Noble]—I din'd with Sis. Wiler on tea & light biscuit.—The 2nd 50 come up.
fr. 13th Spent the day with sis. N.—her babe not well—Taylor and Smoot come up—sis. Hunter calls, informs us of the hail storm which last eve. threaten'd us, but pass'd round—she said the stones were large as small walnuts & whitened the ground.
Sat. 14th Sis. Smoot call on me in the mor., They had 10 horses & 2 colts stolen by the Ind. night before last. I din'd with sis. Leonard on pot pie—gave notice to all the 100 & met in the aft[ernoon] for worship—had a glorious time. 3 receiv'd the gift of tongues—the "spirit of the Holy Ghost" was truly pour'd out—last eve the young people met for a dance & br. [Simon] Baker's boys & others intruded with much insolence—they are tried this eve before the bishop's court, &c, &c This 50 burn a coal pit—the 2d 50 are having their work done that they may start tomorrow—we are also manufacturing tar—Capt. Smoot's Com. made 50 gal.
Su. 15th The 2d 50 start—sis. Meeks sent for me—I spent sev[eral] hours with her—call'd on sis. Holmes—din'd with sis. [Mary Barr] Neff—vis. sis. Grant, & N. after walking to the tar pit, &c Capt. P. loses an ox—yest. saw M. Forsgreen & H. Granger pass sitting in the front of the wagon—P. & J. Young, start for the Pioneers, Very blustering in the aft. but no rain of any consequence.
Mo. 16th A motion is made to start—when the cattle are brought up, 16 are not to be found—do not find them thro' the day. William is out on foot & alone for his ox which is gone with the rest—we feel very anxious for him on account of the large wolves & Indians. I go to Moth. Chase's—hear that Pioneers [Pres. Brigham Young's company] have arrived at the upper camps—that the City [Salt Lake City] is laid out &c sis. H. calls while we are having a rich treat from on high. Call on sis. Meeks. find her better—sup at home on a rabbit pot-pie.
Tu. 17th The men go in search of the cattle. The sis. meet in the grove for prayer—we have a time not to be forgotten. Bless the Lord, O my soul, yea, I do praise him for the gift of his holy spirit—before I got out of the grove, I heard that the breth. were on track of the cattle—went home with sis. Young, read the letter from the Pioneers by Porter of Thur. & bro. Binley of the soldiers—the letter brought the most cheering int[erest], dated Aug. 2d, stating that they were in the beautiful valley of the great Salt Lake, that they that mor. had commenc'd surveying the City—that it is "a goodly land" & their souls are satisfied—the soldiers from Pueblo & the breth[ren] from Miss[issippi] have arriv'd & they number in all 450 souls & know not one dissatisfied.— I din'd with br. Y. & lady & L. Robinson from Rich's Camp. Sis. P. sick in consequence of poison which is effecting her hands & face—the sis. remember'd her in their meeting—she heard from her son—that he was well—had not been homesick—that Prest. Y. was going to keep him by his side, &c, which comforted her.
We have a smart sprinkle of rain over night—Prest. Y., Capt. Grant & Capt. Noble rig themselves for herding—they go out and bring in the herd which captain P. recommended but was oppos'd in. My heart was made to rejoice at seeing our 3 head Officers united in one thing—it surely is an accordance with the prayers of the sis. This morning Sis. G. is better—thinks the pickled pork I obtain'd of I. Ashby did her good.
Wed. 18th Capt. G. started early to meet the men who are in pursuit of the cattle—commenc'd raining about noon—Sis. P. is better—the men do not return.
Th. 19th Last night rained in the forepart—between 1 and 2 our cattle break from the yard—the men go in pursuit & return with them in the mor. One of Capt. P.'s not to be found—After consulting, it is thought best to move forward with what strength we have, Capt. P. goes in search of his ox & we are waiting after the other Tens leave. Sis. Wiler brings me a bowl of tea while waiting in the horseless buggy. The Lord bless her for all her kindness to me. My pray'r for the Camp is that God will pour out his Spirit upon us—We seem to have the most difficulty when the most officers are with us. O Lord! fill them with thy Spirit—unite their hearts—incline them to seek unto thee for thy blessings to rest upon this people—may we uphold them by the pray'r of faith.
Capt. P. finds the ox that stray'd last night & we go on—ascend a hill where every team has to double. Capt. P.'s horses gone after the cattle—he fastens the carriage to a wagon—the women walk. I ride with br. Hendricks. Sis. Love is run over with a heavy loaded wagon. We encamp before night on a small creek—I bake the pancakes for supper—rains quite a show'r before we get supper. M., E. & I crawl under a wagon, the rest get in, &c—
trav. 8 ms.
fr. 20th Last night br. [Andrew] Love & J. Dillworth [Dilworth] who went for the cattle return'd—said they went 10 ms. beyond [Fort] Laramy [Laramie]—found them in possession of the French to whom they were sold by the Ind. They were oblig'd to give one pair to get the rest. Stop'd at Laramy overnight, where they were hospitably treated & drove from there the next day. When about 1½ m. from the Camp, the cattle broke & ran to our herd, where they were found this mor. Capt. P. gets an ox of br. Love to pair with the odd one & we go on in our usual style. The road is up & down hill—high peaks to be seen at the right & left—showers falling on them & we sometimes get a sprinkle. Recent rains cause the way to be rather muddy. We enc. on a brisk little stream with a range of bluffs on the left—I take a walk along the sides & scare up a mighty large rabbit. Sup'd with fath & moth Chase on rabbit pot-pie.
Trav. 12 ms.
Sat. 21st We start very late. J. Y., B. Y., Grant's & Noble's teams in front—we had not gone far when to the general joy Grant, Waiter & another, who went back to meet them with the stray cattle came up after recruiting their strength with a repast which was left on a post at our last night encampment.
Our road was round about between bluffs & over hills—the sides of the Bluffs and for a distance the roads were nearly the color of well burnt brick—sometimes the red of the bluffs being strip'd with nearly a chalk color, the little green shrubs & herbage give it a romantic appearance. We stop'd on a stream at noon—pass'd over sev[eral]—trav. till nine at night. This mor. I heard that sis. Love sat up & comb'd her hair. This is truly a manifestation of the power of God.
Trav. 17 ms.
Su.22. Very late when we start then we wait along while for something to be adjusted—we see the front of the Com. forming a ring on the top of a hill, at about half past one. Capt. P. stops on the stream below. Capt. L. proposes going three ms. farther—they yoke up or rather hitch up—ascend the hill after swallowing a hasty dinner—Capt. G. & others meet [Asahel Albert] Lathrop who is in front & object to the move—after much talk they drive back & form in the ring—a meeting is called for adjusting matters. Capt. G saying he was willing for us to travel in 10's or otherwise, but wanted an understanding have it done by the general voice—some new arrangements for herding were made & liberty giv'n for any 10 to start when ready without regard to the upper authorities, &c, &c Call on sis. Love—she is quite smart.
Trav. 8 ms.
Mo.23 This mor. sis. P. broil'd some buff. meat which Capt. M. kill'd yes. but it seem'd to have been the father of all buffalos & uneatable.
We start at 8 with Capt. N. in front and Prest. Y. & Capt. G. in the rear. In about 3 ms. cross a stream—come onto the Platte in about 8 ms., which seems like meeting an old friend—find an inscription "90 ms. to Ft. Johns" [John]—go 2 ms. cross Deer Creek, bait & dine—a dish of tea is very acceptable—The day clear—the road pretty smooth but very hilly & barren. A windy thunderstorm before night.
Trav. 15 ms.
tu. 24th. Prest. Y: B. Y. & Capt. G. take the lead—before noon br. Love breaks a wagon. We encamp about 1 o'clock—they go back for the wagon, &c Br. Baker kills a buffalo—The road not bad—on our left, far in the distance, a ridge or mountain rises in majesty behind the ranges of smaller bluffs between, having the appearance of dense blue clouds. A shower of hail & rain adds variety to the afternoon scenery. Trav. 8 ms.
Wed. 25th. The Camp moves out in the mor., leaving Capt. P. & Capt. M. in waiting for the wagon maker & the broken wagon. We start between 11 & 12. The weather cold—the road smooth, but deep ravines, pass a board saying 110 ms from Ft. Johns—pass a ferry where the inscription says 8 ms. to another. Pass another way—mark, 120 ms. from Ft. Johns [Laramie]. Encamped—sun an hour high—do not reach the Camp. The cloud-capped bluffs on our left look dreary on a cold day. Trav. 14 or 15 ms.
Thu. 26th Come up to the crossing in 2 ms. where the rest of the 50 were just rolling out—L. Johnson & others were starting for W. Quarters. Five 50's left here last Mon[day]. The river is of a pebbly bottom—the water not over the wagon hubs. The country is very rugged with piles of red & black rock of every form & size. No wood where we encamp 12 ms. from the crossing. A bluff with cedar trees is in our front 2 ms. distant. Without wood as I sat viewing the Camp I thought surely the Saints are a creative people for there is plenty of cooking going on. Here is a small stream or rather Slue & small springs, which serve for cooking. A buf. & ant. kill'd.
Trav. 14 ms.
I wrote the following—"A Song of the Desert,"
Beneath the cloud top'd mountain
Beside the craggy bluff
Where ev'ry dint of nature
Is rude & wild enough—
Upon the verdant meadow—
Upon the sunburnt plain,
Upon the sandy hillock
We waken music's strain.
Beneath the pine's thick branches
That has for ages stood—
Beneath the humble cedar
And the green cottonwood—
Beside the broad smooth river—
Beside the flowing spring,
Beside the limpid streamlet
We often sit and sing.
Beneath the sparkling concave
When stars in millions come
To cheer the pilgrim strangers
And bid us be at home,
Beneath the lovely moonlight
Where Cynthia spreads her rays,
In social groups we gather.
We join in songs of praise.
Cheered by the blaze of fire-light
When twilight shadows fall
And when the darkness gathers
Around our spacious hall;
With all the warm emotion
To youthful bosoms giv'n,
In strains of pure devotion
We praise the God of heav'n.
Fr. 27th. Start in good season—the road is very smooth insomuch that Capt. P. wishes me to record the circumstance of fath. Chase riding up hill for the first time. We pass sev. saltpeter springs & the carcasses of 10 or 11 cattle. We encamp in an environ with majestic bluffs—a slue [slough]—creek & a cold spring. The country is very mountainous & rocky. Large piles of rock lying strew'd about the barren surface, & ornamented with a red moss—Trav. 20 ms.
Sat. 28th When the herd is brought up, nearly half are missing—A late arrangement having been made for the Capts. to take the herding by turns—last night was Capt. P.'s turn—3 horsemen & 3 footmen take the back track—Capt. N. & those who have their teams go on.
Our buggy was harness'd before the herd came in. I was holding the horses when about 11 of the horses became unmanageable—took a circle round & broke the tongue which Capt. P. & L. soon repair'd—myself quite ill since the walk I took yest—lie on sis. H.'s bed till the cattle arrive, which are found by that part of the com. that went forward & are met by boys sent in that direction. Capt. L having discovered their tracks—4 are missing which are brought in at 2 o'clock at night by those that went back to the Platte where we encamp'd night before last. We move in the aft.—encamp in a basin on an elevated spot where the cattle go into a mire—they are oblig'd to take them up—Talk of trav. in the night—it is cloudy, rains some—they yoke all & confine in the ring.
Sun. 29th Start while the moon is yet shining, go perhaps 6 ms. where is a beautiful stream & very little feed & stop till half past 10 or 11 we then go on till ½ past 4 when we encamp near the Sweet-water with our broken Com. Prest Y. & Capt. G. go on. Capt. G. having sent 2 of his wag. with Capt. N. Br. H. & sis. W. thrown out of their place by starting out in front.
The ground in many places perfectly white with Saleratus or saltpeter or some other composition— The bluffs rise one above another till the farthest looks like a dense cloud—all of irregular height & terminating in peaks at unequal distances. The road from where we bait is very sandy & seems laid out in an opening of rugged enclosure. Sis. P made me a dish of tea which is very beneficial to my health, having rode with moth.P. all the mor. not able to sit up.
Trav. 12 ms.
Mo. 30th This mor. Capt. P. had a vote called on the case of br. Hendricks—he is thrown out of his place by vote
—we pass the camp of Capt. N., G., &c consisting of about 20 wagons—sis. W. with them having gone ahead yes. Pass one ferry boat near the base of Independence Rock, where we cross Sweet:water Creek—Cattle are strew'd all along the road side. Find a board in the mor. sign'd W. Snow saying left here on the 29th—lost 11 oxen since we left you. The bluffs rise on either side—some say that this is a commencement of the "pass"—we stop between 1 & 2 in an environ thro' which runs the Sweet:water—a singular opening in the bluff which rises perhaps a ½ mile in height on one side—the 2nd 50 three ms. ahead almost disabled by the loss of cattle.
Trav. 12 ms.—sandy road.
Tu. 31st Start at 8— Capt. L.'s wagon breaks and we stop at the first encampment a basin on the side of the river with good feed, 3 of the Pueblo soldiers arrive —the other part of this 50 come up at eve. The broken wheel is rigg'd in 3 hours from the time we stop'd & all is well—Some baptisms attended in the eve. Br. H. in the rear of Writer. [Riter] Capt. P. says he shall have his place tomorrow. Moth. C. & I have a vis.
Trav. 8 ms.
September, Wed. 1st Start a quarter before 9 and overtake the 2nd 50 a little before 12 & encamp. A meeting is call'd when an effort is made by neutralizing the strength of the teams to assist the 2nd 50 who have lost 25 head since they left us—not quite all by disease, some few were return'd to other comps that had been loan'd. Capt. Snow ask'd assistance as a duty, saying he was not beholden to any man, &c, &c Capt. G. manifested a spirit of meekness & spoke with wisdom &c It was mention'd that the Capts. be authorized to act for the com. & yoke whatever in their judgment was proper to be put to service of cows, heifers, calves, &c Some thought the motion oppressive & objected, but it was carried by the majority.
Trav. 5 ms.
Th. 2 Last eve. we had the pleasure of hearing from the Valley & of tasting some salt from the Great Lake, by a small party of soldiers & some of the pioneers with 3 wagons that came up last night. We got ready to start in the mor. Capt. P. moves out & stops. Capt. G. & N. come up saying that J. Young said this 50 could take more load & must not go &c they examine the wagons, at length we move on—word arrives that sis. G. is apprehensive of dying—wishes me to come back but the distance is farther than I can walk. I call'd on her in the mor.—found her sitting in bed cleaning her teeth. Her symptoms bad, yet I hope & think that she will recover. Capt. G. spoke as if it did not matter for this 50 to stop for the other till we get to T.s camp which is a few ms. ahead—it seems to be by J. Y.'s order that we are stop'd for the examination, after the teams were neutraliz'd. The road very sandy. Hear at night that sis. G. is better—they stop 6 ms in the rear—a show'r before night.
Trav. 12 ms. Br. Woodard comes up
Fr. 3. A board saying 200 ms. to Ft. Johns is at our last night's enc. we start late—road very sandy for 8 ms. in the aft. we pass a straight between 2 ridges of mountains—cross the river 3 times, before which we meet soldiers & Pioneers with perhaps 18 wagons & a herd of loose oxen, enc. on the riv. near the last crossing—we have pass'd the Saleratus lakes, pass'd 1 yest. mor.
Trav. 12 ms.
Sat. 4th J. Gleason parts with us, I having furnish'd him a bag to carry Saleratus to sis. L. we having pass'd the springs. Br. Little [a returning pioneer from the Salt Lake Valley, en route to the Eastern States Mission] takes tea with us. Br. Y.'s youngest child died in bed last night. They are back 6 ms. Kill'd buf., ant[elope] & a mt. sheep.
Trav. 7 ms.
Su. 5th Our wash'd clothes frozen stiff this mor. on the line & bushes. The Pioneers called this a little short of 300 ms to the Valley. Here is a mile board 230 ms. to Ft. Johns.—the day fine & and the road pretty good—some of the way, very sandy—the bluffs not so high & at a greater distance than for a long time. Trav.18 ms. Sup on apple dumpling.
Mo. 6th Capt. N. wagon which was broken yest. repair'd. Sis. W. who left some time ago comes up in our rear. We enc. on the Sweet:water having cross'd it 2 today & once yest. Stop about 3 rains most of the time till night—very cold & blustering—pass the 240 mile bd.
Trav. 8 ms.
Tu. 7th This mor. I wash'd in snow—the storm continued till 11. We started at ½ past 10—snow'd after intervals thro' the day. All the way along hills & in places intolerably rocky—the bluffs white with snow. This call'd "Wind Ridge."
Trav. 10 ms.
Wed. 8th This mor. as we were about starting Harvey P. & others came up informing us that the Pioneers were 15 ms. distant & would be with us. We went 2 ms. to a place of enc. when 2 brethren on horseback in our rear, thought best to go to the next stream, and while our wagons were many, standing side by side waiting for the repair of the crossing, those men rode hastily past—the oxen took fright & almost in a moment perhaps 20 wagons were in rapid motion. Many cross'd the stream in different directions. Many lives were expos'd, but thro' the protecting pow'r of God no one was much hurt & no wagon materially injur'd. We went a m. farther & spend the day with the Pioneers. Pres. [Brigham] Y[oung], H[eber] C. K[imball], & A[masa] Lyman sup'd with us. The 2nd 50 came up.
Trav. 3 ms.
Th. 9th Last night all guard was neglected & about 20 horses & mules stolen. An arm'd com. was put on the track—late this eve. 2 horses are brought in by one of the com. The forepart of the day very cold—I spent it with moth. Chase. Had a spiritual treat wherein both rec'd great blessings. She said certain intelligence should come to me thro' the proper channel, &c We then enjoy'd a treat of tea & pancakes.
Fr. 10th The com. return'd with only three horses. Capt. P. loses 1 mule. We move on after parting with the Pioneers. [Pres. Brigham Young returning to Winter Quarters.] Last eve. a meeting was held after the Pioneers preach'd and a song sung I had written. (Wrote to L. and L. & sis. S. M. K.) Before the P.'s [Pioneers] left, B. came to the carriage, blest us—I ask'd who was to be my counselor for the year to come—He said E. R. S.. I said, "She is not capable." He said, "I have appointed her president"—said he had conversation with br. P. about provisions—that he will furnish me & all will be right. Teams sufficient for both 50 to move altho' much loss was sustained by the 2nd & it was thought necessary for us to go on to Green R[iver] & come back for them, encamp side by side.
Trav. 12 ms.
Sat. 11th We pass or rather cross the "dividing Ridge"—pass the Pacific Springs & enc. off the road with fresh feed. The 2 50 not quite up—the ground white with saleratus. The day warm & sunny.
Trav. 18 ms.
Sun. 12th Soon after we start a messenger arrives from the 2nd 50 with a note to Capt. N. requesting him to stop for them soon as he arrives at sufficient feed to sustain the cattle. We cross Dry Sandy & enc. on Little Sandy at night. Had a conversation with Capt. P. about matters & things of my own concern. He said that arrangements were made to his satisfaction perfectly. Said B[righa]m expressed the same satisfaction for his bringing me, that he had done to me before when, saying that I was welcome to live in the house with Clara [Pres. Young's wife] if I would accept it. &c, &c—Yest. I was quite sick—today begin to feel more like life. Trav. 19 ms., pass the 300 m. board [300 miles from Ft. Laramie].
Mo. 13th Not much feed & we go on to Big Sandy. The ridges of mountains so distant that it seems like a prairie country. A few scattering trees to be seen. Yest. met a large com. of soldiers from Mexico.
Trav. 8 ms.
Tu. 14th Last eve. the breth. & sis. met for prayer meeting in the yard [circle of wagons]—the spirit of the Lord was there. Capt. N. open'd with pray'r, was follow'd by Br. Ellsworth—the subject of stopping today for the other 50 was discuss'd in a candid, intelligent & brotherly manner. Br. E. motioned that Capt. N. go & meet the other 50 & learn the cause of their requisition for us to stop. All seem'd to feel the necessity of wasting no time; yet they did not like to transgress the principles of order & submission. This mor. Capt. P. propos'd going to Green r. to do some repairing, while the rest come up—call'd for his 10—a discussion ensued—all conclude to wait—Capt. N. & Porter go to meet the Com. The mts. very grand—ridge rising after ridge in front of me—the clouds sometimes obscuring the distant ridges. I visit sis. G. who seems improving a little. Sis. L. nurses her. The breth. meet & Prest. Y. explain'd the cause of wishing to see us—that B[righam] told him to keep the com.s together till we get to Green R.—that he compar'd us to a kite & he now cuts the string & lets us go, &c
Wed. 15th We go 2 ms. & cross the B[ig] S[andy] River—pass the 130 m. board being 200 ms. from the Valley. when cross the riv. the road very smooth most of the day—the mountains at great distances on either side. The land in the forenoon undulating—in the aft. regularly descending plain—Come to the riv. & follow it 2 ms. & enc. off the road on the stream.
Trav. 21 ms.
Th. 16th Trav. 6 ms. on a broad descending plain then cross the Green R. a beautifully clear stream with a row of cottonwood on the north side—go 3 ms. & pass 7 wagons from Taylor's com. of whom are the 2 Brenuns—to 1 m. far.[ther] down the riv. & enc.. Yes. & today we pass the country where the Pioneers were taken sick—sev. of our com. slightly attack'd with mountain fever.
Trav. 10 ms.
Fr. 17th This morning Capt. P. proposed being cut loose from the 50 which was done by vote of the Capt's.; after which being ready first he took the lead. We trav. without water; come to a guide bd. directing to feed—go 1 m. & enc. on the Muddy. Capt. L. K. & N. go on by taking the right hand which is 5 ms. Trav. 15 ms.
Sat. 18th Find the herd without diff.[iculty] tho' not herded, find Br. B.'s 3 wag. in 3 ms. & come to the other enc. in 5 [miles]—conclude best to spend the day in good feed. Find plenty of currants.
Trav. 5 ms.
Sun. 19th Start late—come to a beautiful enc.—cross a stream—see the 7 wag. in front & the 2nd 50 in the rear—in a short distance cross the Black Fork. Br. W. goes ahead to find pasture. Capt. M. & C. go on to hunt. Capt. N.'s carriage breaks down—Capt. P. rides before the com. We pass some splendid bluffs—pass the 370 m. board—enc. on a small stream with a shade of trees & shrubs. A br. arrives from the Valley in four days.
Trav. 14 ms.
Mo. 20th Warm—the dust very unpleasant. Br. breaks a wagon—enc. in the sand by a stream.
Trav. 8 ms.
Tu. 21st Start at 9—bait at 12 by a creek—pass Fort Bridger a short distance & enc. The Com. of 7 enc. near—I am quite sick. Our people traffic [trade] with the French & Ind.
Trav. 8 ms.
Wed. 22nd The cattle cannot be found till too late & the majority move to stop till morning—the day spent trafficking—the 2nd 50 come up. Last night Br. Vance arrived—speaks of a frost there that injur'd the crops. I am quite sick in the forenoon—much better in the eve. Moth. Chase & I have a rich treat in the carriage—with a promise of new int. if diligent & submissive—Br. Love, lost an ox—Capt. P. buys a pair & a cow & calf.
Th. 23rd. Saw J.Y. from the Valley. Last night a dance was attended in one of the French-men's houses by many from each 50, both old and young—Prest. J. Y. & wife not excepted—it continued till nearly 2 after which a hooting was kept up till morning by the drunken natives.
We pass'd a spring—a very small run—a curiously variegated landscape & encamp on a stream call'd Muddy that was nearly dry. The dust intolerable.
Trav. 13 ms.
Fr. 24th My health better—finish a garment for Sis. P. We start late—the pow'r of the air rules & the dust is worse than intolerable—find the 7 wag. of G's enc. at the springs, where, not finding sufficient water, we go on—leave Riter & Dilworth & the 2nd 50 in sight—cross a mountain pass poplar groves—a soda spring & the 30 m. b[oard] from Bridger—go 1 m. beyond & enc. by springs 1 m. from B[ear] Riv[er], with a beautiful moon:light about 8 o'clock.
Trav. 18 ms.
Sat. 25th We go to Bear R., when a consultation is had & some are desirous to stop & do some blacksmithing. Part conclude to go on to Cash Cave & hunt—Capt. P. goes ahead—we meet Capt. M. who said that a part of T's com. pass'd the Cave last eve.—no chance for game—Rich's Com. having clear'd the ground. Met C., sick with mountain fever, also men from the Valley with 4 pr. of cattle. Pass some stupendous bluffs of pebble stone rock on one side the "narrows" which we pass'd before we cross'd the stream on which we enc. Capt. P., L. & K. come up also Capt. N. in the eve.
Trav. 11 ms.
Su. 26th Leave our enclosure, which might puzzle a querist where we came in & where we were to go out, which we do by rising a long winding hill, from the top of which we see the mountains of the Valley. We enc. about noon across a small stream opposite a high bluff in the side of which is a curious opening in solid rock call'd Cash Cave. Heard that Sister G. died this morning. Porter & J. G. arrived in the eve. Bring word they have had no frost in the V[alley] to injure much, &c Writer & D. come up.
Trav. 5 ms.
Mo. 27th We trav. most of the day in a Canion [canyon] or narrow opening between 2 ranges of mountains. Capt. G. passes us with a horse team, going to the V[alley] to bury his wife. Br. & sis. Lemon with him. Capt. P. & L. enc. together. Neff stops in the rear K. on ahead. Our place is delightful—the mountains being in a half circle on either side & variegated with indescribable beauty, rising in a kind of majesty that could but inspire feelings of sublimity in a contemplative mind. Pass the 60 m. b. from B.
Trav. 13 ms.
Tu. 28th Go on in the same range—pass curious mts. which delight one mostly of a fine brick color on the right hand & rising perpendicularly & on the left covered partially with surf, with cedar & willow bushes between the ridges. Pass sis. Taylor, stopping at Weber's Fork—pass the river & go 2 ms. & cross the creek that emp. in the W. 4 times.
Trav. 14 ms.
Wed. 29th Last eve. was delightful—this mor. cold with a sprinkle of rain, a strange occurrence. C. D. & Ellsworth stop to hunt—in a few rods we enter "Pratt's Pass"—the road rough—sideling & thro' thickets of willows—pass the 80 m. b. & enc. on a fine stream call'd Canion Creek, after crossing one 3 times. The middle of this & the 2 last days too warm for the cattle. Some of T.'s com. where we stop. we saw the mountains of this side of the Valley. <p. Trav. 11 ms. the 80 m. b. on top 5 m. hill.
Th. 30th Cross'd Canion Creek 8 times—the road sideling, cradling, stumpy, bushy, &c We enc. on a side hill about 1 m. ahead of the 90 m. b. Capt. L. passes us also sis. T. but her camp stops in our rear. The buggy is found insufficient to go any farther.
Trav. 6 ms.
October Fr. 1st Left the carriage & an ox that gave out yesterday—I rode in the chuck wag. Sis. P., M., & Edith walk. Very, very dirty, thro' brush & timber—up the mnt. to Bellows Peak, where we met J. T. who ask'd me if I had lately seen my face, his own being behind a black mask, (the soil having chang'd)—we then went slash mash down over stumps, trees, &c, &c—enc. in the Canion a little in rear of Capt. L. & sis. Taylor, thankful for our deliverance thus far.
Traveled 10 miles.
Sat. 2 Cross a stream 19 times—which is dry in some of its beds—the vegetation & shrubbery is very much chang'd; here is oak, maple & elder, zier, &c About 4 we come in view of the Valley looking like a broad rich river bottom—It rains & a breach made in the side of our wag. cov.[er], torn by the brush admits both rain & dust, but being in sight of home, we make our way to the Fort. [Pioneer Square]. I am too sick to enjoy the scenery, but a good cup tea prepar'd by sis. P. refreshes me, also a vis. from sis. Sess.
Trav. 14 ms.