Transcript for Henry W. Bigler reminiscences and diaries, 1846-1850, Volume contents: (2) July-September 1848, 1-13
On either side one with a little ice plenty of trout in some of them. I past over snow more than two feet deep and seen banks that was 10 perhaps 50 feet deep[.] this day I gathered flowers in one hand and snow in the other[.] thare is plenty of mountain chickings here they are nearly as large as our domestic chickings and Resemble the prair[i]e chicking[.] I returned to camp tired and hungry
Sun July 23d. 1848 in camp, some went to work the Road
Mon. 24 th. the camp Road out went 6 miles and campt on the north side of the mountain[.] 2 waggons upset and 2 broke
Tu 25th lade by some mending waggons others marching stock and some making a road down the mountain 2 indians staid in camp last night
we 26th mooved to the bottom and campted near lake plenty of good grass beautiful little valley this is caled the Lake Valley. this afternoon we went ten men to explore the mountain and look out a pass, the axiel tree to our waggon broke we made 2m.
Thur 27th lade by & made a Road 2 m. 20 indians cum in camp all had their bows but laid them by while they staid[.] late in the afternoon our ten men returned but made no new discoverys
Fr 28th made a moove went 3 miles and encam[p]ted near the top of the back-bone at the head of the South fork of the american fork here is a nice pa[t]ch of leaks (lakes) several small lakes a long down the creek[.] here we seen 7 indians[;] 2 came in camp[.] this afternoon worked a road across the ba[c]k-bone and built a correll found a young fawn but we let him go. timberis [timber is] so plenty that we can build a correl in a hour large enough to hold our Horses over night.
Sat 29th mooved across the mountain which is about 10 thousand feet above the level of the sea[.] we came down without taking out any load[.] made 1½ miles and campt at the head of hope valley a verry bad place for our stock so much brush and mirey here is a small lake one waggon broke
Sun 30th worked the road 2 miles a[nd] mooved about 8 miles and campt on pass creek at the head of the canion[.] plenty of grass and frost every morning for several mornings past
Mon. 31st lade by and worked the Road in the canion [canyon]
fr. 1st Clear and frosty this morning[.] 15 of us worked the Road[.] Some went a fishing
We[d] 2end we are still working the canion through which is about 4 miles bad[.] I went a fishing and caught 12 trout
Thur 3d worked the canion in the afternoon fell a fiew drops of Rain and Snow[.] we was overtaken by 13 other Brothren[.] they left the mines 5 days ago, today we finished the Road, here is the first flax I ever seen grown in the woods[.] some is in bloom and some in the bowl [boll]
fr 4th mooved through the canion all safe some was in the night gettink through[.] four indians cum in camp with their bows & arrows and was ap[p]eared friendly[.] one of them had a badger he had kild[.] Made 5 miles
Sat 5th at 7 we was on the march went 12 m. Had a good road down the river[.] here is a valley 12 m wide[,] plenty of grass, one of our men kild a antilope[.] this river we call pilot river[.] some indians cum in camp[.] they are the Sankes [Snakes], the mountains seam to be all on fire[.] the valley is full of smoke (Carson Valley)
Sun 6th at ½ past 7 we was on the march[.] continued down the river nearly a month [north] course about 15 miles and campt on the river the road was verry sandy and but little grass by the way nothing but wild sage[.] near the middle is flax in abundance[.] here Br. Pratt kild a Rattle snake[.] we call this Rattle snake camp. About 4 miles back we past a hot spring. the indians has made a hundred fires on the mountain what for I no not[.] some think it is a signal to other indians of distress[.] others say it is for peace[.] some for war
Mo 7th lost last night 4 horses and one ox suposed to be stolen by the indians[.] today we traveled 15 m. and camp on the river had some bad road but little grass here, some indians is seen following us[;] they still keep up thier fires. Mr. Weaver the g[u]ide for the Battalion said a smoke raised on the mountains was a sign of peace & a token for help and a smoke in the valley for war[.] when the Colonel wanted to rais[e] and[an] indian near the coppermines he ordered a smoke to be raised on the top of a mountain near by and we got them
Tu 8th Continued down the river[.] verry sandy[.] made 15 m. and campt
We 9th this morning we had a late start[,] kep down the river nearly an east cours[e] made 15 m. the cuntry is broken and sandy no timber but willow and some cottonwood along the river[.] this encampment we call ox yoke encampment[.] a verry good camping place[,] plenty of grass
Thur 10th at 2 oclock this morning we was aroused by the gard that the horses was crossing the river leaving the correll that we had made by forming our waggons across the neck of the river, on examining we found no horses gone[.] at day light 2 horses and a mule was missen[.] ten men set out to get them[.] they was taken by some Indians[.] they was soon overtaken and the horses got except one cow is gone, hur calf cum up with an arrow sticking in it being shot by the indians. Mr. Dimond who is not a Mormon was shot in the brest by an indian with his arrow but not fatal[.] this was while they was looking for the horses this morning.
fr. 11th went 12 miles and encampt[.] this we call homes [Holmes] hole, a little dog that was a long cum up and was shot by the indians[.] it had staid back to camp until after we had left eating the remnents of the calf.
Sat 12th Clear and verry smokey[.] some bad Road[.] Traveled rather a NW course 25 m. and struck truckey [Truckee] and found the old Road[.] traveled rather an old road, our Packers have left us and gone a head.
Sun 13 Clear, Lade by
Mo. 14th at 7 we was on the march[.] had a sandy road for 8 m. then a hard smooth road[.] made 25 m and encampted at the boiling Springs[.] here we made tea and coffee without any fire to boil the water[.] a little dog walked so near as to loose his balance and fell in and was scalded to death instancely[.] thare is no cool water here for us to water our stock
Tues 15th at a eleven oclock last night we roaled ont the moon shone bright[.] had a good road[.] at 6 this morning we got to the sink of Marys river water and campt[.] the watter is verry bad[,] the cattle don't like it[.] it is standing and Brackish[.] this evening 18 waggons of emegrants from the states roled in encamted[.] they said they met the packers a bout 40 miles a head and had traveled about 100 miles with out watter[.] we got but little news from our friends as they did not cum by the lake[.] I met with one man Bro. Hazen Kimball that wintered thare last winter but left in March and went to fort hall and cum on with the emegration[.] he was dissatisfide with the situation of that place and with the people and left[.] he said th[e]y was sweing [sowing] wheat all last fall and all winter that they had put in a 8 thousand achers, one of our company lost a cow, got mired and broke a blood vessel.
we 16th traveled 20 miles and encampted[.] had a good road[.] we are traveling up Marys River or Humbol[d]t[.] the water is better here than it is at the sink[.] it runs a little[.] grass is scarce[.] our stock looks ga[u]nt not having verry much sence we left truckey[.] today we met 25 waggons
Thur 17th traveled 12 m. and campted on the River[.] here is plenty of running water but little grass[.] the road was good but dusty[.] we was followed by indians all day[.] 3 cum in camp and we have confind them under gard to keep them until tomorrow morning for when our horses was brought up to correll one was shot by and indian so we took the bows of our visitors from then confined them[,] showed the wounds, they made a dredful do a bout it and went to doctorn it[.] they sucked the sore as if they was drawing out the Poison
Fr 18th went 12 m and campt on the river[.] had a verry dusty road the country is poor but little grass or timber but a little willow a long the river, and wild sage that grows all over the cuntry [.] some of our cattle is lame and we have took gravel from their feet
Sat 19th this morning one of the cows was so lame in the foot that she could not travel, at 8 we was on the march[.] had a good dusty road[.] went 15 m and camt[.] here we found a lot of indians[.] they run like fine fellows, wimen and children[.] we had not been in camp 2 hours when we found 2 of our horses wounded by them[.] the arrows was sticking in them[.] grass is scarse except in the Brush which gives the indians a chance to shoot at them when our cattle goes in to feed[.] we ralleyed out[.] some was seen and shot at[.] Bro. Cor[a]y had a colt shot
Sun 20th lade by to rest our teems
Monday 21st had a good [blank space] made 28 m and part of the way so dusty I could not see the next wagons today we found that 2 more of our horses was shot.
Fr [Tuesday] 22nd had a good and dusty[.] made a early encampment[.] plenty of good grass[.] Cum 19 miles[.] left one of our wounded horses
We 23rd good road[.] mad[e] 18 m left a nother horse that had been shot
Thur 24th good road but verry dusty[.] made 16 m[.] plenty of good water and grass along this river
Fr 25th last night we lost a horse either strayed or stolen by an indian[.] at ½ past 7 we was on the march went 18 miles had a good road[.] 7 indians come in to camp appeared friendly said they would not shoot our horses
Sat 26th went 18 m good road[.] the wind blew and made it verry dusty, cloudy in the afternoon a fiew drops of rain fell[.] the soil a long here is rich but no timber but willow, we met 10 waggons of Emegrants.
Sun 27th lade by plenty of good grass[.] at 3 oclock the camp cum together at Br. Pratts waggon and had a prair meeting, just as meeting was over we was met by Capt. L. Hensly[.] a packing company of 70 (or 10 perhaps) men we got a way bill of our road from here to Salt Lake and not go by Ft. Hall and save about 8 or 10 days travel, we learn from Mr. Hinsly that it is not more than about 380 miles to the lake to take a serten cut off which we are sure to find with plenty of wood water and grass[,] a rout that he cum but waggons have never went thare before[.] a good waggon rout[.] he got defeated in attempting to go Haistings [Hastings'] cut off and turned back and found this knew rout of 70 miles saveing about 150 or 200m.
Mo. 28th fine and warm at 7 we was on the march had a good road[.] blest with plenty of dust made 22 m good grass[.] I drove horses today and got verry tired and felt about half sick[.] This is my Birthday a greeable to my Fathers family Record I was Born A.D. 1815.
Tues 29th Made 18 m[.] good camp past over the pointe of one hill into the valley had a good Road, a party of imegrants has roled in sight and will camp about a mile a bove us on the river
We 30th Met the emegrants[.] Bought some Baken and Buffalow meet and got a way bill of Capt. Childs[.] still a nearer Rout than Kinsleys[.] Capt. Childs Company consists of 48 waggons[.] today made 18 miles[.] bad road
Thur 31st plenty of dust went 10 miles and made a earley encampment[.] here is whare haistings cutoff leaves this road[.] its cours[e] seems to lead towards a notch in the mountains a bout 15 miles off.
Sept. Friday the 1, 1848. this day had a good road[.] made 15 m. at 3 this afternoon at becum cloudy and cold[.] the wind blew from the N.W. A bout sundown rained a little
Sat 2nd. Cloudy Rained and Snowed, verry disagreeable[.] made 10m and campt
Sun. 3rd Cleared up in the night and was verry cold[.] the tops of the surrounding mountains is white with snow and frost in the valley[.] our camp ground is not verry good[.] thought best to travel until we found a good camping place and lay a day[.] went 20 m and campt[.] several indians cum in to trade drest Buckskins for knives and clothing and powder[.] some of them had guns
MO. 4 lade by and kild a beef[.] some cought a fine lot of samon trout
Tu. 5 cool and frosty[.] at 8 we le[f]t camp[.] went 2 m and found that one horse & mule was missing[.] it was thought best to camp here and hunt for the horse and mule and send 4 men a head to ascertain if possible whare we are to leave this road to go childses cut off and meet us day after -to-morrow, in the evening the Boys returned with the mule and horse, the mule was shot through the thigh by the indians. Lieutenant Thompson lost a horse[.] eat something that give him the scours so badly that he was left this morning
We 6th at 8 we was on the march had a good road but little dust[.] went 20 miles and found a note left by the 4 men for us to camp here good grass and water[.] some sage hens was kild
Thur 7th at 8 we was on the march[.] went a bout 2 miles and entered a canion [canyon] which is a bout 3 or 4 m through and the road in places bad in this canion[.] we crost the creek ten times verry bad fording past through a bout 2 or 3 miles and met our 4 men and encampted here, at the head of Marys River whare it cums out of the ground cool good water in a fiew rods it becums quite a running stream 3 or 4 yards wide and deep[.] here we cought some fine trout, beautiful country here surrounded with low mountains plenty of grass in the valley[.] today we cum ten miles[.] in the evening we had a report from the 4 men and a councel held what to do[.] they reported that ac[c]ording to Mr. Childs
map this must be the place to turn off but they had been 10 miles a head[.] 2 of them got sick and they turned back without finding water[.] it was voted we not give up that we start out 5 men in the morning with plenty of water to hunt a camping place and the camp roll out as far as the top of the mountain which is a bout 6 miles whare there is several springs and thare wait until they could see a signal which the pilots was to make by making smoke
Fr. 8th went to the top of the mountain 6 or 7 miles and stopt 4 of them returned at sundown[.] found no water
Sat 9th a bought 11 oclock last night the other pilot got in[.] one hunter was with him[.] a report was made from them they found water but not plenty[.] they had went further south but found no trail whare Mr. Childs had ever went with waggons[.] a vote was cold [called] whether to go hinsleys [Hensley's] rout or continue to hunt and go this cut off[.] votes to go hinsleys rout and as our stock had not water sufficient from these springs and consequently eat but little[.] voted we go back to our old camp whare plenty of water and grass for them and camp until to morrow morning and take a fair start on the old road for the cut off which is a bout 70 miles farther a head[.] at noon we got back and encampted once more at the head of Marys River from the sink to this place I have journaled it 313 miles, from the Bend of Truckey [Truckee] to the sink 45 m, from Capt. Sutters to Truckey 230 miles, making in all from Sutters to this place 588 miles.
Sunday 10th Clear and fine[.] at ½ past 8 we was on the march[.] past over the mountains a N.E. Course from our camp over in hot spring valley[.] good road[.] cross the mountains good road all day made 24 miles and encampted[.] plenty of grass and water[,] wood scarse[.] about 6 m back the running water is hot, some indians cum in to trade
Mo. 11th at 8 was on the march[.] Rained a little in the morning good road went 15 m good plenty of water[,] no wood but sage brush
Tu 12th Clear[.] went 4 miles and left hot spring valley and crost over a rough broken country[,] bad road[,] rockey in places[.] today we cum 16 miles and encampted on the head of Goose Creek[.] plenty of water and trout, poor grass and plenty of wood for present use dry willow.
We 13th Cloudy and cool continued down goose creek 15 miles good road except 2 or 3 miles through a canion which was rough[.] at this camp is plenty of wood[,] water[,] and grass[.] here I cought a fine mess of trout
Sept. 1848 Thur 14th Clear[.] while at breakfast and indian cum in camp having a mule he wished to swap for a horse[.] one of the men Mr. Brown give him a trade, it is said by some emgrants if a person loses a horse strays a way from the camp and if the indians find it they will fetch it to camp for the owner[.] at 8 we was on the march[.] continued down the creek 6 miles and the road leed into the mountain[.] climb the mountain nearly to the top and campt[.] a good spring on running Branch[.] food good but not plenty[.] wood plenty[.] made today 12 miles[.] this last end of the road steep[.] after dark our gides returned with the news that they had found the cut off a bout 8 miles further on this old road.
Fr. 15th got of[f] this morning in good spirits[.] every person was in a fine humor[.] we left the old road about 8 miles from camp, in a chain of low mountains near 2 high Rocks on our left which Brother Pratt named the Twin sisters [drawings of twin rocks] from this place our course is east through sage brush and over some stone granite at 3 we campt on Cas[h]ier creek[.] made today 13 miles[.] plenty of wood and water[;] poor grass
Sat 16th Continued down Cas[h]ier ten miles and encampted[.] wood and water good and plenty, grass only midlin, we was met on the road by a party of Indians[,] 11 on horse back, Snakes, or in their own tunge, Shoshoneys [Shoshones], had a good road.
Sun. 17th. traveled 11 miles and encamt on the side of the mountain to our right on a small creek or branch which is nearley dry[.] plenty of wood[.] feed good but not plenty for our camp, this morning we left Casier[.] at our Camp it soon turns and runs to the north[.] the road was good except sum gravel and sage the country is poor[.] no timber but willow and Cedar on the Mountains[.] last night the gard lost Brother Greens watch case and was not found.
Mo. 18th went 20 miles a cross a sage plain and campt on deep creek[.] plenty of grass and water [.] from our camp this morning we could see a lake a bout 20 or 30 miles off supposed by most of the camp to be salt lake[.] at this camp I think gold could be found. 11 indians has cum in camp on horse back to trade and will camp with us.
Tu. 19th traveled 18 miles and encampt[.] plenty of grass and water[.] good road except a fiew sage brush in the way.
We. 20th Lost one cow last night, traveled 13 miles and encamped by a spring[.] the water brackish[.] poor food
Thur 21st Rained some[.] traveled 18 and campt on Mud[d]y Creek[.] plenty of fish here[.] the boys catch them fast[.] good road[.] nice country[.] we are now in sight of Bare River[.] all hands is merry and full of talk and sing[.] we have the promise of a good song tomorrow night composed by Br. Denit [Dennett]
Fr. 22nd traveled about 7 miles and encampted on the east side of Bare [Bear] River[.] the crossing of mudy creek was bad[.] broke one waggin crossing the crossing of Bare River[.] was good[.] after we had campt we had a fine shower of rain and a bout dusk it becum clear, every man brought in his tithing of wood for a good fire to hear the new song[.] after prairs we had a number of good songs sung and we had quite a good time in passing off the evening, we are with in 40 miles of Capt. Browns, and a bout 70 from the city
Sat 23d. I have made a mistake a bout last Mondays travel. Monday evening we campt on evening we encampted on the same side of the mountain we campted on a Sunday night.
Sun. 24th traveled 18 miles[.] good road[.] some of our calves is getting verry tired traveling
Sept. Mo. 25th 1848 Traveled 15 m and encampted on Ogdens creek near Capt. Browns[.] some bad road[.] broke 3 waggons today.
Tu. 26th. Lade by and mended our waggons and eat Roasen ears (roasting ears of corn) and melons[.] we feel that we are almost home[.] some is going to stop here[.] it is said to be only 25 m to the city. The campt is in fine spirits, shaveing and washing, dressing and mending waggons[.] every person buisy and in the best of humor[.] here I believe some person stole my spir [spur]