Transcript

27 [August] fryday stop to get some hors[e] sho[e]ing done and all who are ready push through the Mts

28 day concluded to stay to day and get some more horse shoing done[.] half went yesterday[.] this at morning bought me a jack saddle & lasso fo[r] 15 dollars[.] this morning I strained my brest around my hart which gave me the most severe pane and now I feel bad and sore around my hart[.] I have got shoes for my riding beast paid 125¢

29 day started out of camp about half past 8 oclock and traviled on a North course 18 miles and camped by some holes of vey poor water and feed but little[.] we have had good traviling[.] last night we had high winds thunder & lightning and just before day a small shower of rain[.] it seemed like old time[.] we have seen at our right upon the tops of the Mts clouds that looked like rain[.] also west of us there is clouds on the Mts but none in the vally[.] the rivers are kept up by perpetual snow which falls all times of the year and some times thaws which keeps the rivers high and hard to ford and almost imposable to ford[.] some times we find a place whare the water runs swift and makes it low just above the breast and by bracing well we have [been] able to cross all of them so far

Monday August 30 took an north corse some west but turned and come to us[.] went a long distance out of way but our corse N was 22 miles and come to Bare creek[.] here we was told that some of our men left here yesterday morning[.] this country along this valley must be nearly all under water some times of the year[.] weeds have floted four or five ft in many places along our way[.] on the level plane sink holes are common on the Sacramento whare dead water stands[.] this we had to drink[.] it must be sicly here whare we are on the Bear River[.] the water is dead[.] some timber here not much

31 day we started into the Mts an N& NE East corse over rug[g]ed hill and down steep hollows crooking around untill we made 21 miles and camped by a small spring of water which woould soon loos[e] all water in this place[.] we watered our anemels which was something like 250[.] to day we haved passed much timber[.] some pine & oak of many kinds which grows on the planes here but it is low & bushey tops pines long & slim[.] poor feed[.] we take the advantage of it and spread out into a long train

Sep 1st—1847 this day is the first day of fall and we cast our minds back to this time last [year] & whare are we now & whare was we then[.] now we are on the Mt top[.] camped in among the pine by good water and grass about 20 miles from Bare valley whare the emegrants eat each other last winter in among the Siara [Sierra] Mts[.] one year ago we was under [Lt. Andrew Jackson] Smith in the Mormon Battallion marching towards santafe [Santa Fe] under a swift march[.] had to cary our armes and cartreg box and clothes napsac [and] standing guard when sick or have to take calomel & be sicker[.] now we do as we please and can ride and take our time

Sept 2 this morning we started and left one ten with a sick man one of the [Henry] Hoyets [Hoyt] who has the gravel[.] we found some watermellons seeds and thought that if he had some tea made of them that would be good for him[.] the rest of us traveled on for about five miles and come to the Mt[.] we passed trough 2 very bad hollows before we come to the Mt[.] here is our road down and up the steepest [part] of the Mt[.] this day made 20 miles and come to the Mule Springs [which has] the coldest water I have seen in Californ[i]a and the best here we have found the names of many [of ] our breathring [brethren] who went with [Stephen W.] Carney [Kearny] and wrote on an oak tree[.] on the tree there was names and said June 19 - 1847 and then there names was wrote on the other side was Capt [James] Pace with 50 men camped August 31—1847[.] we have a company as large under Capt Andrew Lytle who camps here here to knight Sept 2—1847—

Sept 3 we left Mule springs which lies on the top or nerely of a high Mt a few rods each side[.] it looks to be a thousand ft down to the botom[.] on the left is Bare Creek where you look west altho here it seems nearly E NE to SW[.] we are nere the head of a bend[.] al[l] along it passes through rocks[.] we traveled about ENE and [after] croking around in about 8 miles [we] came down like coming out of the clouds and crossed the creek[.] folowed it up about 4 miles and camped[.] made 12 miles[.] here we found pee [peas] a plenty[.] the botoms are half mile wide [with] good grass and water[.] two miles from here back was a little [grass] that some of our men found and let there horses eat man[y] pea vines are there which the Horses love[.] this country is the best timbered of any I have seen in California[.] I saw one pine to day I should judge it to be ten feet [in] diameter and 150 high[.] here is plenty of the Redwood or [what] I call seeder[.] some call it fir some pine[.] leaves taist like hemlock[.] we boiled some and it took the hemlock taist out and made the best kind of drink[.] the trees are all as large as the pine and look like hemlock but the wood is cons considred the best[.] we are now in the Bare vally at the head of the creek[.] camped along down for two or three miles wating for our men who are back who have not so good horses[.] some have come in since we come

Saturday Sept 4th—1847 this next day rest and wate for Capt [Reddick Newton] Al[l]red who was left back with Henry Hoyt who was left sick with the gravel[.] the 2 days of Sept where we stayed one knight an whare I had this dream just before day[.] I thought I hered brother Heber C Kimble call me[.] I sayed I will come directly[.] I had something that I was doing which I done quick and started and went and the first man I saw was the Prophet Joseph Smith and the first words he sayed to me was the field of grain must be attended to first and I never knew or I did not know that it was with you as it is and I must go & I will see you again and after he said these words he put his armes around me and hug[g]ed me and I awoke and told Andrew Lytle[.] I did not write it down untill now considring it a dream but last knight he and I came together again and I asked him if what I taught was correct [.] I told him I wanted to be right and he would know[.] he looked plesent at me and sayed I donot see but that you have done right in evry perticular[.] if there is anything wrong it is here perhaps[.] it might have bin betered and arose as he sayed these words and some others who was with him and arose and stood up and Joseph sayed the reason why [James J.] Strang fell was that he assumes to himself power and ketched a puppy and turned him around as if he was runing after his tail and could not ketch it and so it was with Strang and I awoke

Sunday 5th we started over the Mt[.] went first up the vally and at the foot of the Mt was the Irons of some of the wagons that had been left by some of the emegrants last yeare[.] last knight brother Alred came with the sad new s of the death of brother [Henry P.] Hoyt[.] we felt to mourn his loss but we have had to part with him[.] he was buried on the side hill on the top of the first Mt this side of [the] steep hollow one mile[.] [They carved] his name on a tree about half way between him and the road[.] he dyed by the afects of the Calomel so said which fell in the Testickles[.] we turned east at the head of Bare [Bear] vally and took the point of ridge and bore of[f] NE untill we come to a bench about half up the Mt and went up east and over in an other hollow not so deep by two thirds and saw the road more levil and turned NE again and passed over some hills and saw at our right a pond of clear water of about 3 acors[.] on the tops of the Mt is many ponds here which burst through the rocks and on the other side of the Mts make springs which make the rivers[.] these ponds are made of snow which lie all summer[.] the water is almost cold enough to freeze here[.] we turned here to the east and we have com about that direction untill we come onto Juber [Yuba] Creek and followed it east untill we came to the falls and turned of our corse and we camped[.] not much feed but it will do[.] made 12 miles[.] we have had the worst kind of road to day[.] many stoney hill[s] we have passed over and sharp conererd[.] too bad for horses feet

Monday the sixth of Sept we left our camp and continued our corse & found that we had to turn east over a Mt about a half mile high and come down on the same stream and continued our corse about EN East over the points of Mts crooking around untill we asended a high hill or Mt and saw a steep Mt suposed to be Fremonts piramid and camped on the west side of it[.] this day made 12 miles still through the thick forest[.] passed one Broken wagon and one cabin[.] many human bones there so said[.] I did not call to see[.] we left one man back by the name of [Richard] Seshons [Sessions] sick with the chills[.] I have just came down from the Mt while on the top I counted 9 small lakes and took the shape of the Mt tops[.] this Mt stands on the top of the Siara of Californa Mts in the center of a great baison and is about 600 ft high and is nearly straight down[.] here we rolled down large rocks that would mak[e] a tremendious crashing below[.] this day I have now noticed that we are in a country of the balsam of fir which is a perfect cureosiaty

Sept 7th last knight Samuel Branhan [Brannan] came in our camp and had much to say about Capt [James] Brown and had much and told of the difaculty between them and this knight I hered Browns story which was not as he [Brannan] stated and [Brown] called on brother Fowler to witness to what he had said & Esquares[.] both said brown told the truth[.] I stoped to the place whare the men eat each other[.] this day the boys said they saw one man lying on the plane up about one mile above us in a hollow[.] the most horable sight my informent ses he ever saw[.] some of the flesh was still dryed up like a mumma clothes on[.] has bin draged about by wild anemels[.] many bones seen skulls backbones [and] thy bones of human beings[.] Fremont has burned the most of them[.] our course has bin East 25 miles but not less [than] 10 from last knights camp[.] the Mtn we crossed is the back bone[.] we turned to the south and wound around west then south over the Mt down over on the other side of the Mt west into a large vally[.] we passed snow last years[.] the Mts are covered each side[.] I picked a snow ball out of Andres [Andrew] Lytles hand which he took closs by my horse[.] we went down in a hollow south for a number of miles and come to where the man eater lived who it is said eat the widow [Lavina] Murphy after he cut her throat[.] he had two pales of blood when he was found & it was dry[.] he sayed he got it out of dead mens bodys who died of starvation[.] the people say it cannot be got[.] it is the worst looking place I ever saw[.] the creek is called now Fether [Donner] Creek on the account of the distruction of many beds [.] fethers strung down it

8th day we left & traviled an easterly course[.] made 18 miles & camped last night Capt Brown cam[.] we found [him] with the pioneers and Capt Pace have good feed now we have not got threw the Mts yet[.] last knight had a letter from my wife it done me good to here from her[.] she has a son born on the first day [of] Feb [.] Levi she calls it

9 day traviled down this river which is called Truckey [Truckee] 26 miles over many rocks & over high hills and steep ones too[.] this river is swift running water and round rocks & slipry[.] we have crossed it 5 times[.] the botoms narow[.] we came to a slew and had to turn to the right and went around a large scape of wet marshey mudy land and had to pass through much of it to get across it[.] then went along by the foot of the hill which was very rockey and camped in a good place for grass[.] these botoms and marshes is all grass and rushes [.] last knight the officers called all hands together and hered them express there feelings concerning pushing forward which all agreed that on the acount of so many the swift travilers might go ahead with the blessings of the Lord upon them and if they had time to go to the [Council] bluffs they could there prayers and good wishes[.] here they asked each others forgivness if they had hurt any one feelings

10 day we went down the river 25 miles and camped in a place we could not git out and I lost my horse[.] the Indians stole it & Lyt[l]es mule and went to the Mts in as bad a place as they could find[.] Lytle went to find them and tract them to the Mts on the 11 day[.] we stoped on the river and took breakfast [at] nearly 10 oclock[.] our corse has bin East N South E

this 11 day we took around on then hill the worst kind of a road[.] we found the Pioneers had gone ahead with many of our breathering on the desart of 40 m before us and I am left with out an anemil to ride[.] the river turns from 6 miles below our camp here NNE and runs winding through hills[.] we have spoiled nearly all our catriges[.] 4 oclock we left this river called Truckey [Truckee] and took an ENE course and traviled until about 10 oclock and come to the boiling hot springs a perfict curiosity[.] the water is boiling hot and it boils about 2 ft high in one place[.] at others it can be hered for long distance from the holes[.] they [are] larg enough in some places to let in a man[.] I should think there is 30 or forty holes and other places show they wonce boiled but are now caved in[.] I have dreamed of this place many a time and new not what it ment untill I saw them and went in among them and remembered my dreames[.] I hope the Lord ment I should take notice of it by repeatedly giving me a sight[.] to here the rumbling put me in mind of the secttarion hell[.] we camped closs by and found that our anemals would not drink much[.] it cooled off in about 12 rods but are called bitter[.] as soon as morning came we packed up and soon it began to rain but it did not last long[.] yesterday and to day made 40 miles no grass and no water thats good and to knight is poor but our anemils will [make] do[.] I think it is called the sink here I suppose of St Marys river[.] we have come a ENE course yesterday & today very sandy and in many places must be the worst of going in wet weather

Monday 13 we took an NN East cours for 23 miles then NN West one mile and cours NE 1 mile and NE 1 mile[.] 25 [miles] this day[.] this is a desart & nothing grows on it but wild sage save on the sloughs a little grass[.] we came on one to knight seen a plenty of wild gees today in the ponds east side of us when we came by[.] have not hit san marys river yet

Tuesday 14 we traviled NN East up stream through the baron land for 20 25 miles and went to our right down on the botoms by the River and camped[.] Mts on each side of this stream not so high and some miles off

Wendsday 15 day we traviled NNW 4 miles and turned NNE 3 m and then N untill we [went] 15 miles and our Capt showed me an Note left about one mile back which read like camp on st marys river[.] Capt Lytle sir[.] Capt [James] Pace & Company arived at this place of encampment at 12 OC this day[.] since our arival the company has bin called together & it is the minds of all after having taken into consideration the scarcity of feed & the conveinience of traveling in small companies and that we are now where there is no danger of the Indians &c &c to travil on and if we should get to the forks of the road before you over take us & should [we] conclude to take Hastings Rout across the desart we will leave signs &c[.] my camp are genrally well and hope all is well with you &c Yours with respect[.] respect Capt Pace[,] D[avid] Pettigrew[Pettegrew,] E[lisha] Averett[,] W[illiam] Hyde

Thursday 16 started [when the] sun [was] an hour up and went North 4 miles and turned east 2 m then N east untill we made 25 miles and camped on the river st marys[.] met more movers going some to California and some to Oregon[.] good feed to knight

Fryday 17 we marched at an hour by sun and made 25 miles NE up the river[.] good grass & water

18 day Marched East up the river winding our cours around on the banks of the streame [.] made 25 miles[.] no timber on this streame but a few willow sticks

19 day made 35 miles East S East[.] crooked road[.] good feed beside the river[.] the Indians have bin troublesom to travilers

20 day we made 25 miles East[.] after many long turns we have tryed to ketch Capt Pace until we are tired and conclude that if he is a mind to leave us he might go[.] our anemils are run down[.] our covenant was to stick together without a common consent and we can not ketch them[.] they have mules we have maires[.] we have traveled all of 65 miles in two days with our poor anemils

21 we made 20 miles East[.] croked around considrable[.] this river runs among the baron hills or Mts and [is] very levil[.] here we found the water ran swifter[.] we have picked up some anamils that have bin run down

22 we traviled NN East 23 miles the most of it Mts [.] on the left side of the river as we came up stream and in the valies seen many springs coming out of the side hills[.] wild Indians all along[.] seen Children tracks[.] there is some Patriges on this streame

23 day made 24 miles N East[.] passed many Indians naked[.] what they eat I cannot tell unless it is grass seeds and seeds of weeds

24th made 24 miles EN East in among the hills[.] this streame is a curious concern[.] it has cut through the hill here a little below about 3 miles and here it looks as if it was wonce a lake[.] our cours has bin crooked to day[.] this morning found another letter from father Pedegroo [Pettegrew] who is with Capt Pace stating that they was with Capt [Jefferson] Hunt on the 20th

25th day went 24 miles east NE many turns[.] no water runs here now [but there is] some in holes[.] road appears to leave the river here

26 day made 20 miles [and] passed Haisting cutoff[.] found that Hunt and Capt Pace had gone there[.] the letter from the twelve was not to go it[.] we have made 10 miles and camped a little west of the hot springs which makes a considrable of a streame out of a canion [Canyon] a short distance east of our camp[.] we have seen much good land on our rout for a few days march but no timber I think by the looks of the grass that anything would grow without arigating warm springs here in this canion [canyon] comes out from under the Mt about as dish water[.] Course NN EN East

27 day left our camp in the mouth of the canion [taking] a ENE cours for five miles then turned east and went across the plane and came to the road that we thought was the cut off and saw the tracks of our breathrings horses and after we had made 20 miles we came to the hot springs and found Capt Pace and company and there was Hunt a little a head[.] Hunt and company leaves made this day 20 miles[.] our course back from the forks of the road has bin ENE[.] we passed a back bone ridge between St marys River and these hot springs[.] we brought up sevral anemals our breathring left behind

28th day journied N East 10 miles and found water in a well like place[.] good water here is in all these places threw California and many of them there is too[.] from there we took more north and found that it is NNE for about 10 miles further and found another well here[.] was a bad place to git to the water one mare myred but after it was onloded it come out[.] this day made 25 miles and camped beside good water & grass[.] large Mts and hills on each side yet

29th day traviled N East and found water along for about 10 miles in places then found none untill we came the waters of goose creek and followed it down NE untill we made 25 miles and camped[.] had to crook around in among the hills[.] passed over some

30 day went N East 18 15 miles and turned North and went 3 miles and took up a canion and went untill we made 25 miles and camped by good water & grass

 

Our fathers have left us & gone on before ahead
But nothing consoling unto us have said
And left notfathers there blessings and fathers would of one
When blessing they wonted to rest on there sons
Altho they camp nere us but just on before
But Oh & Alas we can reach them no more
Some times they pass by us but wont crack one smile
But And will not camp nearer us that one half mile
And we cannot tell what it is that we have done
That should make our fathers dispise their sons
O father O father a while Oh do stop awhile
You left us behind you as much as one mile
You say that our Company your mules dispise
And will not stay with us because hes too wise
If he did leave us we are sure he left you
And you for to find him had all you could do
Therefore we do hope that you will not dispise
Your sons any longer if they are not wise
If you are our fathers do treat us as such
And do not dispise us as you do so much
But if you reject us we must give let you up go
And trust in kind providence until wer'e go through
So farewell dear fathers oh do be so kind
As to leave the road you have traviled behind

 

this day we have seen many gees good land and water & ducks[.] no wood of any account

Oct 1st we went N east crooking around and over mts and through vallys untill we made 26 miles and we camped by good water and grass[.] the water here is worm at the springs[.] we passed some Mts covered with the best of marble

2 day went NE 10 miles and come over the uplands to the banks and decended down on the botoms to an other river called [blank space] we then went down it untill we made this day 33 miles[.] our anemils was tiered when we stoped as well as we ware[.] this river like others we have passed between this and st marys is small perhaps one rod across and runs crooked sometimes very narow botoms and sometimes wider[.] sometimes it spreads out wide and would make good plantations[.] traviled 11 hours to day

3 day traviled down this stream or river 20 miles[.] a NN East cours not so crooked[.] we have passed the Oregon rout[.] seen some graves beside the road[.] some at the turn off back one mile[.] our horses are almost run down[.] we have our match to get them along

4 day traveled NN East about 8 miles and came to big snake [River] and traviled up it untill we made 20 miles & camped[.] this streame is about 1/6th of a mile across in high water

5 day traviled up it 6 miles NE and came to the falls and found them to be about 20 ft high called the American falls[.] we come to two falls yesterday and supposed them to be what these are but they was small[.] come on the same cours untill we made 20 miles and camped down on the botoms about one mile from the road[.] here the botoms spread out wide and butiful[.] not any timber on this River but small brush[.] on the bluffs is small seader in patches it looks more like rain this eveing than any time since we left Pubelo [de Los Angeles.] we one evening had a small sprinkle and wonce at the hot springs but did not hurt but laid the dust hansomely[.] last knight I had a dream which gave me great joy if I was a sleep[.] I thought my wife came to me and asked me I did not wont to go whare she roosted[.] I thought it was in a great tree top she had found some whare[.] I told her I did[.] she took hold of my hand and we traviled a considrable distance and come to an other road and she said I call this Haistings [Hastings] cut off[.] you must not take it[.] she then let go of my hand and ran ahead and said here is the way and we traveled on and soon we came to a vally and I saw George and Charles Hancock and an other man[.] I cannot tell who it was[.] and they turned and faced east and she said I roost here and I awoke[.] I thought sometimes I would fly and some time a foot and some times a riding my mare

6 day went NNE untill we got to the fort[.] 15 miles to day[.] 6th day traviled NE 8 miles and came to the river and crossed it and went 10 miles further [on the] same cours and camped at fort hall[.] here we bought some bacon and buck skins

and on the 7th day morning Capt Pace went ahead[.] I told him [of] the pass which was south from the fort egsactly by the compass and he got on a head and took two anemils a Jack and mare and my Horse[.] ten men went with him[.] we followed him untill we got sick of it[.] we was in hopes all the time he would turn but he did not and whare he will go we cannot tell[.] this is the only pass[.] we had to travil 35 miles to day

7 day we got up our horses and went south on this streame about 15 miles and camped on good ground for feed

9th we followed this creek up and in about 15 miles we went over the divideing part of it untell the ground discended South West[.] our cours has bin all day SS west and a part of yesterday[.] made 30 miles to day[.] no water and not much feed

10 we turned east and took into the Mts through a canion [canyon] and from last knights camp we are 10 miles[.] 3 [miles were] in the Mts[.] found water & paper stating Capt Pace is a head[.] 10 oclock mad[e] this day 20 miles

11 made 20 miles and camped by Reed creek

12 day 28 miles[.] we have crossed Bare [Bear] River[.] passed some warm springs which is salt[.] we are at good water now and feed[.] Pace is gone ahead again[.] our anemils are tyred

13 made 30 miles

14th traviled 25 [miles] five out of our way by mistakeing the man who directed Capt Pace[.] he Pace led ahead[.] Lytle stoped at an Indian town and I took command of Lytles company and took a shoot for the trail and found it in three miles and Capt Lytle a standing egsactly against the point of the Mt[.] I made for [journal ends]