Transcript
Transcript of "Robert L. Campbell diary, 1849 July-1850 March"
Title: Robert L. Campbell diary
Call Number: MS 1222
[Page 1 of 68]
[Book cover]
[Page 2 of 68]
#24
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1849
Thursday
July 26. While on the Dr (Richards) 10 acre lot about to sow
turnips - about 11 A.M. young man rode up to me with a note
requesting me to repair to the city forthwith to go on a Mission
with Mr Babbitt, walked up, bought me overcoat &c. & fixed
me up to start before 6 P.M. when went with Dr R to Bro:
Brigham & got my instructions & started off. (Wm Babbitt
Oliver G Workman & Edgar G Blodgett having started.) the
sun 3/4 hour high. on entering the Kanyon a large Rattlesnake crossing
the road, heard me singing, & it rattled so loud my horse startled
& I drew up while the Snake moved out the way. Beautiful
moonlight evg. found the above named Bre encamped & eating supper
about 4 miles up the Kanyon - Good feed Travelled miles 9
met Charles Decker returning from the Ferry (Green River) on the bench
Friday 27th Daylight breaking. Bro: Babbitt wakes us up. fixing for
the journey. Start Sun 1 hour high. Broke Whipple tree & harness. Bro B.
& the boys fix up & start - meet emigrants on the top of 1st Mount.
Warm sunny day. Dust 2 inches deep in the roads. Broke tongue
descending 2d Mountain. but here as in the case of the Whipple (he) Bro
Babbitt proved a good carpenter. bad rough roads. unbroke Indian
Brunkos (horses) in the team. got last unk. Sqirrels by the Dozens
cross our path. Snake tracks in the hot & dry dust where they
cross road. Saw waggon while on the road & a good looking ox
pass emigrants with families. Governments trains gone round
the other road to Fort hall.
Camp about Sundown. head of Kanyon creek 20
Saturday 28th. Daylight dawning. unstake our horses. drive them on better feed
Start Sun ½ hour high Meet James Emmet & Bro: Stewart. Meet
Captn. Egan & two Bre. over the Ridge. Meet 100s of Indians on their
line of march so earley, Shoshonees. going to meet Captn Walker to
swap horses - Women & children, Dogs & horses, all on horseback
ends to them, cross weber upper Ford - 1 ft. deep. our tire come
unwelded on the Weber stop [ remainder of line is smudged and illegible]
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[corner of page missing] it with Lauriet. meet men with 1 horse between two carrying
them going
[corner of page missing} packing a little. meet ox teams, & Indians strewed along, warm day
met 3 men with their guns & packs on their backs. very dusty. Indians
have some Eagles along. Pass Ephraim Hanks. Lauriet wears
out stop & corral on Echo creek. Good feed. Travelled 28 ¾
Sab 29th Indians on the route early. Mr Babbitt fixes the wagon
tire on with sheet iron. (ice ½ thick this morning) Late start. Coys of emigrants pass us &
Indians. Got some Sugar for a guide I wrote out. Good feed - Meet
men a-footing it with packs on their backs. Travelled to Muddy fork. Got
in 2 hours after sundown. Turn horses over Muddy for feed- - - 42
Mond 30th ice in coffee pot. very cold - rough Coy of emigrants. Pass
Pomeroy's train of 36 wagons - goods for the city. reach Ft. Bridger before noon
rivet the tire & set it - take in 270 letters. $67.50. also $27.00 from a
Mountaineer. take in many letters by the way-- 25 ct. each. Wm. Kimball
pass us with Mormon train. Bridger & Vasquex at home. many
lodges of Snakes or Shoshonees at the Fort. start at 5 PM
travel to Major Parkers camp 12 miles East _ _ _ 25
taking in letters all the way. Squire Babbitt, gave the Major's
men a lecture on the Valley, Mines &c. &c. they treat us.
Tuesday 31st Start little after sun up - Pass many emigrants
Good day. Breezy – dusty - Camp near Green river Ford very good feed
Millions of Misquitoes. Passed Mr Rowe who said his Coy had
Killed 5 Pawnees & wounded 6 for stealing their cattle.
some young men inform us that Jim Allen; & the Silvers of Ray Co.
who [smudged] were in the hauns Mill Massacre, passed the other road
all the Coy. wished to come thro' the Mormon Settlement, but
__ese __ers [smudged] & they swayed, but our informants determined to
come thro', broke off, Jim Allen had it thrown up to him
how a Mormon woman scared him with a sweet Potatoe
cut out like a pistol-- dreadful afraid of the Mormons.
Most of the Coy. wish the Mormons would kill him - also inform
us of places where Goods & Drugs deposited Under the disguise
of "Sacred to the memory of a nomenclature" Many of the
pretended graves, contain not the corruptible tabernacles of men, but
The
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August
Wednesday 1st daylight, Start up to the Ferry (lower crossing)
found Captn Lamoreaux, Pixton & others, good spirits,
Bros. start up for the higher Ferry. read all the
news to the Bre. Write guides
Thurs 2d A.W. Babbitt starts on at 9 A.M. Bre. from the Upper Ferry
arrive at sun down, have to settle all their business - take till after midnight
Frid 3 - R.C. [Robert Campbell] starts early to bring up horse. Bre. still arranging their business
writing out their receipts. & receive from them $240.00, start on 9 A.M.
Jos Murdock accompanying me, meet on Big Sandy. the Platte river
Ferry Boys ___ Received from Abraham Washburn 8.00
Funk $25.00 Charles Shumway 13.00 Bradly 25.00 Lewis Robison 50.00
Murdock 35.00 Gardiner G Potter 25.00
Marble 40.00 Madison D Hambleton 10
Moore 30.00
Lamoreaux 30.00
Dodge 25.00
Pixton 30.00 240.00
In all $346.00 Received as per Receipts granted 106.00
Jos. Murdock returns with the Platte Ferry Bre. ride on to Big Sandy 17 miles
eat dinner, & pass on to Little Sandy - meet Coy of emigrants invite me to
supper, wait an hour or two & start on travel all night. pass emigrants
who travel during nights. met J D Lee on Dry Sandy. sun rising
emigrants tell me where my Coy is a head-. one told me I was to
ride all night & meet Squire Babbitt at Pacific springs. accordingly
did & got up just as they were starting on. Edgar C Blodgett
stays with me while my horse rests & [basts?]. having travelled
60 miles the last 24 hours with but little or no feed.
Emigrants come & ask us questions - two scotchmen make us
our tea. a Methodist preacher, preaches a little. very tired &
sleepy think a pity of my horse. Babbitt leaves orders to come
on to Sweetwater in 3 hours. saw the 1st Antelope on
the road. leave & arrive at Sweetwater, find Babbitt in
a Camp with many of his friends. Phin Kimball of
Nauvo & others - make large supper - read them guide
to California. Good feed down the river 3 miles.
calculating to start at 11 P.M. stop till morning. merry
night. Dancing, Singing, & story telling in Camp. Captn
H Stransberry of the Corps of Topographical Engineers of the
U S army, arrives. gives Mr Babbitt a letter to Washington
& Mr B gives him do to Prest. Young going to survey
the Salt Lake & Utah vallies & a road to Mexico
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Augt 1849
Sat 5th start at 8 A.M. Warm day, meet Hatch's Mormons. Meet Alabama Coy
at Stilton creek. Pass on to Sweetwater again. meet Geo Blodgett going after 11
mules stole by some of his own coy. stop on Sweetwater, good feed, at 1 ½ PM.
Pay Mr. Babbitt $346.00 as per his receipt of yesterdays date. start at 6 ½
& go on to Sweetwater again, Camp as the morning start appears. Spare feed.
went merrily along. all in Coy singing - songs of Zion.
Mond 6th Start at 10 A M. Hot sun.
Pass wagon. (runing geers). soap. Horse collars &c. &c. wagon tires many
(no time to Journalize for 3 days)
all along Sweetwater encampments. encamp near Bitter cotton creek on the
river, Heavy shower for ½ hour, afterwards sprinkling. Mr Babbitt cocking all along.
Tuesd 7. move on early, see herd of Buffalo. meet Indian Subagent for
California, Pass Major Reynolds, govt trains & few emigrants at Independence
rock See Box of irons shoes, nails &c. &c.. with, poetry. "Private sale"
Wed 8th Mr. Babbitt puts in new springs on wagon, start at 8 ½
A.M. meet Genl Wilson & escort, Mr Pickett & Squire Babbitt
have a long talk, read proceedings of 24th to Agnes Smith {& others}, read
proceedings of [word struck] Legislative documents &c. to Pickett. noon at Grase
creek, meet Bro: Wells & small Coy here, no feed, Pass Pioneer Line
Passenger train to the Gold mines, Pass, Willow spring (where 3 wagons
& beds, (very heavy & large) also 4 wheels, harness straps chains
&c. &c.) great destruction of trunks & wagons parts for fuel) &
go on to Small (spring) stream of clear spring water, this is very
bad water, hunt 2 hours for feed - found not any - dark, camp - no supper.
Thurs 9th. Daybreak. Horses amissing, not staked, Sun 2 hours high start
noon at Mineral Spring & Lake. Dug for water. Pass on to Upper Platte Ferry & ford
Forded, good feed, Two wagons, lead, Lamp black, chains, &c. &c. left, yellow horse
gave out. Hard drive for two days on the horses.
Frid 10th, Firstrate feed near the bluffs, all wash, shave, & change
Garments. Meet Govt trains at the Ferry, delivered letter to Wilson, noon
on river bank, Carral on Deer creek, Mr. Babbitt brings up the
yellow horse which gave out few miles back, thunder, hurricane
from the West, rainey, [word struck] feed all eat up.
Sat 11. start, noon at Box Elder creek, feed on the banks. good day. Pass
over a Le prele, meet Captn Wm Hyde & Coy of Saints with Livingston King
Cade & others, wait a few moments, Pass on to the branch of La bonte, amid a
deluge of rain, no feed, dark. supperless to bed.
Sat 12, Good day, early start, Mr Blodgett & R.C. to go a head & meet Spencers
Coy strike down to the river 4 miles beyond La Bonte river crossing. Pass on 6 or 7
miles & meet them. return & Camp with them, in carral read . proceedings of the
24th &c. to the Saints, afterwards in Captn William Millers tent read letter &c. to a
few Bre. Orson Spencer read lien on the property of Livingston &c. for the money he loaned.
Mond 13. Orson Spencer, gave me letter to Dan Jones, soldiers, after deserters start
late start, noon where abundance of choke cherries, good roads, - Buffalo. Pass
Lieutt. Elliott who had found his way, & his men join him, carral in a Beautiful
valley good feed.
Tuesd 14th Start a little after sun up. go on 6 miles to the Lime kilns. Met
wagons Fort teams; noon at bend . good feed. Sunny day, Good roads, reach
Fort Laramie. 2 Coys Cavalry one foot Coy Major Sanders, making (a)dobie,
[Page 7 of 68]
Augt. 1849
Saw mill going by mules, cutting hay. some Sioux & traders. move 3 or
4 miles down the river with Mr. Infelt & Captn of a Govt train for
Bear river station & camp. good feed.
Wed 15. start 6 ½ . noon at Ash point - Mr. Babbitt buys 2 horses
gives $170 for them from the Sioux traders. camp on river Good feed & roads
Thursd 16th guarded our horses last night, Noon 1 ½ miles below Mr Rubidores
station on a creek near the road, inland from Scotts bluffs - reports the
Ogallallahs gone to White river, in consequence of the cholera, a Sioux shot
a white man because his friends took cholera & died, his own nation killed him
a few hours after. good roads good feed, strike the river camp 10 miles East
of Scotts bluffs. Misquitoes very bad.
Frid 17, noon below Chimney Rock. See Coy pass the other side R.C. goes over
Judge Owen's Coy report the Saints not far behind. Go on to river & Camp
misquitoes dreadful, little sleep in consequence of them - Good road & feed
Sat 18. cross the river, good deal of Quick sand, horses sink in, noon on the
North bank, 431 miles from W. Q. Pass on to Cobble hills West Foot met
[Pifur?], Gardner Hill & others, nooning ride over to the East Foot & Camp with
President Perkins & 3 tens. stormy night, rain, heard of Anne [Sevbies?] death by J Piper
Sab 19 Camps come together, read the doings of the 24th July & letter to O Hyde,
Breakfast with John Lyttle, start on & meet Allen Taylor with 2 tens under way
noon 399 miles from W Q—hot; move on to near ash hollow.
Mond 20, early start, meet Captn Silas Richards’ at Pond creek, noon, read
documents. Pass on to Shoal stream, camp. drove Buffalo
Tuesd 21. move on before daylight to near Duckweed creek found G. A. S. &
Elder Jones encamped, misty day. Forenoon camp. Ezra T drove up &
encamped near us, meeting in Forenoon when R. C. read documents
for press, Council to the Saints &c. &c., Meeting of officers read all
open documents A W Babbitt read Preamble & Constitution of the State
of Deserett - Dutch Free Soiler present. Babbitt lectured in the afternoon
Received from Dan Jones $1184- from Bradford Leonard $147
A W Babbitt draws an order on Brigham Y for $150.
Total $1481 had a cotilion party between the Camps.
Ferries 346 heavy dews, almost as bad as rain in the
$1827 long grass – found James Ure & Robert with E T Benson
Travelled 684 ¼ miles in 25 ½ Days, including 2 ½ Days which we rested
Wed 22 - Busy finishing business, with the Squire B, who moves
off at about 9 ½ A.M. Edgar Blodgett returns with his Brother And
Camp moves on 2 or 3 miles then noons at Rattlesnake creek, moves
on few miles farther & carrall near Creek six feet wide, R. C. at
James Ures.
Thurs 23. a forward axle tree broke at Camp creek, a wagon
bed broke by sudden turn of the Cattle, both repaired & move up
to Camp at night. eat at E T Bs G A S Appleby comes
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into Camp. read dispatches for the valley, before E T B &c.
Frid 24th - Spend to day with G. A. S. & E T B
Sat 25th. “ “ Received papers (the mail) &c. & packed our animals to start
Sab 26th Express Coy Captn Wm W Patten, Bradford W Elliott & R.C. starts
from Creek or Slough 397 miles from W. Q. found Captn Richard's
Coy where R & R joins; they were dismissing meeting as we went into Camp
R & River joins 7 miles from Ancient Bluff ruins.
Mond 27th Travelled with Captn Richards Camp at his request in order
to give his Camp time to write letters. & to hear news from the valley.
Camped 1 ½ miles past Sandy Bluffs west foot. Travelled to day by Roadometer 13
Tuesd 28. Left Captn Richards Camp after receiving letters & dispatches, nooned
on the Prairie with a few who broke off from his Camp. hot day - moved
on to Spring Creek, cool breezy afternoon. started fire & cooked.
Wed 29. cold rainy morning. late start, unable to catch Bradfords horse move
on in the rain & camp near river. started fire & warmed us very cold
this forenoon. Sun breaks thro. travel on to near Timber north
side river, Camp on river - hear Indians. stand guard.
Thurs 30. cross river. Ogallallahs encamped, at ash point, R.C.
buys pony for $17 & overcoat - got up to Laramie by sundown, go
on 2 miles & camp. R.C. goes up to Fort,. writes letters &c. stays all night
Frid 31. R.C. walks on to Camp. start & go nearly 20 miles noon, travel
on, expecting to meet Camp, & get something to eat, camp . in a
small hollow where green grass on a swamp - cook our apples
& drink coffee, eat herrin.
Sat 1st September, do do, move on to near where road
leaves river, noon, see forward camps, move on & overtake Absolam
Perkins, 10. Prest Perkins informs us Coys pretty much divided into 10s.
Camp on the La Bonte, nearly dark, R.C. moves up river 1 ½ miles
with our horses & Camp cattle to feed. B W Elliott sore biles on his legs
Sab 2d R.C. reads letters to the Camp. Captn Patten lays our [situation? Smudged]
before them - learn, some have come by the bills, a part of a [smudged word]
comes on here last night. some of their Coy stays behind on
[smudged word] hills. Prest Perkins gives us his light foot mare to leave
[Page 9 of 68]
him with his Bror in the valley - leave California horse with
Absolom Perkins. Pass Owen's Coy & Bre. on the La prele,
a wedding & dance
Camp on the Forche Boise, where Captn Taylor, & 3 tens encamped
Mond 3d. Turn our horses 2 miles up river, get 3 horses shod. Captn
Taylor raises for our expedition a mule & horse & provisions. had
a meeting. likewise a dance. Norman Browns mule to be left with
Ebenezer Brown. Sniders 10 moves off. Owen's Coy encamps here
Tuesd 4th. Camps roll on, our express starts. Captn Reese accompany
us. Pleasant day. Camp near Muddy creek Good feed R.C. exhorted
Wed 5th. Bird B Barnet let us have a horse wishes it to be given
to Schylur Jennings (A O Smoot) on our arrival - some rain last night
move on to Upper Platte ferry & ford noon with Hill Gardner &c.
Camp at night 2 miles below mineral Spring & Lake, near river
Thurs 6th. noon at Small stream of clear spring water find Infelt
and Mr. Reid of the Bear river Govt. train. Pass on 3 miles over Grease
wood creek. Captn Reese's horse falters Captn Patten kills 2 hares.
Frid 7th A wolf comes up to Camp midnight. R.C. rises up in bed takes
Gun & shot him. Move on to near Devils Gate. Left letter for G. A.
Smith at Independence rock. Good feed. Pleasant day. left Captn
Reese's horse - Bradford goes thro the Devils Gate. See droves of antelope.
Patten & Elliott go back for Dog 2 miles - Camp 3 miles West of the Gate. Good feed
Sat 8th start at 9 A.M. noon at High Gravelly Bluffs Antelope abundant.
Pass on the right hand road to within 4 miles of the Rocky ridges
Sab 9. 9 a.m. start. droves of Wolves & antelope, drive to near Ford
No. 5. Feed all eat off, Captn Patten shot a Goose on the wing - good
supper, move on at sundown to summit of Bluff or hill Go by
the river & Camp. Many of the chains &c. picked up.
Mond 10th R.C. shot wolf coming into Camp 8 A.M. Move on to Swamp
& Spring by the road side late ½ hour & pass on to 2 ½ miles of last
crossing of Sweetwater. Pass wolves & antelope in droves. Wolves
bark & howl dreadful at night round camp. Good feed, Pleasant
day.
Tuesd 11 move on a little after sun up. (cold & chilly) left letter to [letter struck]
[six letters struck] (Col. Rockwood) & Si Richards. to Pacific creek & Springs, warm as we
[Page 10 of 68]
approach the pass. cook Breakfast at the Springs where left letter
for G A S & E T B & S R. Windy weather 1 P.M. move on to
Dry Sandy. Bradford shot duck. little water.
Wed 12 Patten & Elliott go to near Pacific creek after the horses
noon gather up & start, a few miles on met Captn D Fulmer
& Joseph W Young with 21 wagons & 78 yoke of cattle left valley
27 Augt 2 miles a head met the trains, stop & Look for their
letters, then pass on to Little Sandy go on 3 miles & strike down to river
Thur 13 early start, move on to between Sandys noon, cook prairie
dog. good. then go to Green river by the travelled trail. feed
eat off. find a cow & a mule.
Frid 14th. cool day. Go on to Blacks fork and noon - Pass
on to Hams fork & Camp, tolerable, as soon as we made down
our beds rain falls briskly.
Sat 15th Start at 6 ½ A.M. move on to Blacks fork third time
and camp at 9 ½. 1 P.M. start heavy hail storm, Camp
with Fa Knowlton at Bridger. Showery. long talk with him.
Sab 16th Good, feed. Write letter to G. A. S. & E. T. B. & one to Coll
Rockwood, move on to Soda Springs meet Captn Redfield & other
wagons, Camp with them on the mountain at the bend turning
N. W. Councillors Brownel & Cahoon & Coy have a meeting. Bros
Elliott Reese & Campbell speak, also had a dance. & finally heavy shower
Mond 17th Good day. noon near Yellow creek, Pass on to Echo creek
Kanyon, [Canyon] Camp with Captn Hyde & Coy below Deep ravine ½ mile.
Tuesd 18th meet Captn Millers Coy a head near Weber, noon at
Weber, & move on to within ¾ mile where leave Kanyon creek. overtake
Bro: Spencer & Camp with a few wagons. meet teans going back.
Wed 19th ride in to Salt Lake valley. Leave 2 horses mouth of the
Kanyon. get to Council house. Sun about 1 ½ hours high. Squire
Wells sends up mail to Heywoods. R.C. delivers packages & papers
to B. Y. & W Richards. Travelled 22 days 29 miles a day. rested 2 days
Week following Gave in my receipts & reported to B. Young Squire
Wells & W Clayton. all found correct.
[Page 11 of 68]
Journal {23 November
R Campbell’s } of started { 1849
G S L City }
Southern exploring Expedition
Left Council house at 11 A.M. cold day. muddy. To Kanyon creek bridge 4 ¼ (miles) Mill creek. bridge over. at Gardners mill 6 ¾ Good road. Cotton wood crossing
8 ¾ (m) Camp at Captn John Brown's. rendezvous. 10 ½ (m) Parley writes letter to Brigham
Sat 24th D Fulmer weighing out Bal of Groceries & Flour, some 60 lbs.
coffee to return to City. R.C. Copies letter to B. Y. encloses returns &c.
aggregate in Camp 12 Wagons 1 Carriage 2 Yokes of cattle Beeves
No of horses & mules not ascertained. One Brass field piece, on fore
wheels of wagon with a tongue. Guns innumerable, ammunition in proportion
Start 11 ½ A.M. Bishop Crossbys, where irrigation furrow enters & road leaves
Big field 11 ¾ . Further Cotton wood crossing 12 ¾ Forks of road, take the right 14 (m)
Pleasant, but cool. Dry feed plenty. Dry creek 17 ½ no water. some fuel
Good road, Camp at Willow creek. Soft & swampy. no fuel. 20 ¼ -Plenty
feed, kill a yearling, fat & good. Cattle tied up about 8 P.M. as the snow falls
fast. gather round fire. many jokes and stories told. Singing Songs & afterwards
a hymn. P P Pratt prayed Sab 25th T 31 o Snowy 2 in deep all over. W Wind
start ½ (h) after noon, ceases snowing, reach Hollow steep ascent 21 ¾ Hot Springs 23 (m)
136 o Heat, by roadside, road turns left, ascend steep kanyon 24 ½ Double teams
Summit 25 (m), turn to the left few hundred yds then descend long hill N
Wind reach Dry creek 6(h) 25(m). Camp S side 31 ¼ miles. Mond 26th.T 25 o Snowing
freezing, Good water. Cotton woods on banks 10 (h) start, Small Winding hollow
33 (m). Snow 9 (in) deep. American Fork 34 ½ ft. Wide 10 in deep small cotton woods
near 10 in snow 38 ¼ to Swamp creek, muddy & soft for 100 yds 39 (m) Pond at the
right of road. Sage & Greasewood abundant. pass Cedar Groves. Cloudy
Camp by 5 (h) P.M. at Cedar Grove 20 yds left of road, 43 ½ (m) Tuesd 27th T 43
reach Provo by 11 A.M. 46 (m) 34 yds Wide 18 in deep-- E Wind, Rocky bottom
Muddy Wet & soft roads ¾ mile from Fort Utah (which is at the crossing
of the Provo) cross a branch of Provo, Soft Swampy Springs 2 of them 50 ½ (miles)
To Slough caused by Spring few yards East, bad crossing 51 ¾ -- Spring Creek
Rocky bottom 19 (yds) Wide, 10 in deep. 53 ½ Hobble Creek, 28 ft. Wide 2 ft. deep
Camp South side, Plenty cotton wood fuel (& Willows) firstrate feed T 40 o
Wed 28 Beautiful morning Sun rises little after 7 T 31 o 9 (h) 22 (m) start
[Page 12 of 68]
Bear S.W. level Prairie, Small Hollow 55 ½ steep banks
T at noon in the sun 57 o cool N Wind. Thawing. Wet roads
Snow only 2 in deep, Dry feed, Plenty all along. Spanish Fork
59 ½ 14 yds Wide, 14 in deep, Rocky bottom steep banks, & steep
descent 100 yds from Creek, & steep ascent 150 yds past it, Cotton wood
timber & plenty willows. Good camping place, Sage & Greasewood studded
thickly all over right & left, Low Swamp. 62 ½ . this Swamp continues for
¾ (m), some Good black soil, soft Travelling. Thawing Pateatneat creek 64 ¾
9 ft. wide 17 in deep, Coll Scott & party who r after Purbelow the Mountaineer
who stole horses. Stay here till we come up, hear that Purbelow camps at the
hot Springs to night, Camp here at 3 P.M. Cotton woods & Willows plenty.
Thurs 29th T 17 o Beautiful spot. start 9 A.M. Sun strong. Good road sage plentiful
The Range of Mts. on the East in Utah valley curve from N to South round East
We have travelled at the East foot of the Mts 2/3 of a circle round. Plenty dry
feed. Ap creek 68 miles, bad descent 6 yards wide 1 ft. deep Gravelly bottom
best crossing at the right Pass some beautiful fine feed, Pleasant view of Utah
lake and valley, Mts East covered with snow & studded with Fir & Cedar
Branch of Summit creek, 3 ft wide, 10 in deep 70 ¾ fine rushing stream,
200 yards further, Summit creek 30 feet Wide 1 ft deep, clear water, cotton wood timber
Steep ascent from Creek, main run of Water 3 ft wide, 1 ¼ mile from mouth
of Kanyon beautiful fine feed, bench land S of crossing T 68 o in the sun
view of Utah lake West of the Mountains. Dense cedar Grove 2 ½
miles S.S.W. 73 ½ (m) Rocky spot begin to descend into the Valley
at this point a few yards to the left of road is a lay of Cobble
stones studded on the bluff 1 mile long from 20 to 100 yards
broad. rich feed, 78 (m) Pang'un Spring right of road. Within
¼ mile 3 other Springs left of road, 78 ¾ to Warm Spring Creek
3 ½ P.M. Camped. Beautiful day, Good roads all day, Kill ox
very fat. Wolves howl, beautiful clear Moonlight evg. T 28 o Camp
called together sing hymn, prayers, other hymns sung, 2 Bren av
hands laid on them, one of them Dan Jones. R. C. prophesied
on his head, God would heal up his lungs and restore him to
vigor & strength, & the time would come when he would be able
to roar like a lion in the congregations of this world in
preaching this Gospel, notwithstanding thro his zeal he had
[Page 13 of 68]
- 1849
injured his vitals and bodily organs. Alexr Wright
reports himself healed by laying on of hands last night. Sing,
"We slumbering nations," Parley tells the origin of that hymn-- the
introduction of the Gospel into New York. Gods power displayed in healings
visions &c. [Rinic?] tells about the Indians, when heard preaching-- their traditions
Nov 30. Ther. 6 AM, 12 o 18 o below Freezing. R. C. sleeps out on the ground.
Camp woke by sound of Carnopean. Beautiful moonlight night. but hard Frost.
range of high Mts on the East of us, running N. & S. 3 miles distant. this creek tho
so hard frost still as warm as usual, o no bad taste to it, leave part of
head, intrails, & skin of ox. beautiful morning. Camp start at 9 A.M.
firstrate road. third day with scarcely one cloud in the blue etherial sky.
To Watadge creek 82 miles - (Willows) muddy crossing. vallies rich in feed to the R & left
Warm sun. Ther at (noon) (11 AM) 71 o From Mts East, to the range of hills on
the West, 14 miles, which would include some bench land. light brown
soil, little gravel in places. Phelps peak of Mt. Nebo. highest peak to the left
these Mts .Rocky, & r studded with small timber near the summits, Forks of
road 85 ¾ take the left. Leave the road make a new trail 86 (m) -,
Join the old road 88 ½ . this avoids a hill we pass (some) (miles of)
beautiful light Brown soil, loose & Mellow land. To mouth of
Onappah Kanyon 90 ¾ Just before entering the Kanyon, on the hill to the
left thick Grove of cedar. Pass up the Kanyon 2 miles Camp near
branch of Kanyon which forks on the left 92 ¾ miles. but little
timber in the Kanyon, some cedar, & cotton woods. crossed the
creek 6 times 4 yards Wide. 12 in deep. some steep bad crossings
One ox left behind this morning. could not be found. Vance's
poor horse left behind. 4 ½ P.M. Camped. T 28 o Bren with Col Scott
return, they went to the Sevier, found Purbelow had (gone) too far ahead. Singing
songs, afterwards hymns then prayer by Phelps. afterwards discussion till
late on Gods, Angels, prophets &c. Bro Phelps saw a Robin in the Kanyon today.
Sat [written over Frid] 1 Decr moderate morning Ther 28 o Parley, & Dimic B Hunt
ington start for the Sandpitch settlement . Camp starts at 10 to 9 AM
but few on horseback this morning. all keep close by their wagons.
To the third crossing this morning. 95 ¼ . we leave the main Kanyon now
which turned up to the left, 300 yds up before you cross there is a
Salt rock in a cave, it is on the left [two words struck] bluff below ground 30 ft.
it is mingled with the Red earth, at the corner South as you turn up
[Page 14 of 68
Decemr 1859
on the Mtn pillars of earth. like the pillars over Fingals cave. beautiful.
of light colored earth. Brought specimen of Salt Rock along. it is about half
Salt & half Red earth. Summit of ascent from Kanyon 98 ¼ . You
then travel on level land for 2 miles, then gently descend into Sand
pitch valley. Snow 2 & 5 inches deep all day both in Kanyon & on the ridge
Camp on the left of road at the first cedars. by wayside get water from
[two words struck] Pleasant creek. right of road 300 yds. Ther at noon in shade 46 o
Pass lots of sage, & Camp right in it to night at 3 P.M. 11 ¼ (miles). T 25 o
Camp prayers & singing. 104 (miles) from city. [word struck]Pleasant creek 3 ft. Wide 18 in. deep
2d. Decr. Ther 25 o Camp start at 9 (h) 20 (m). Pass sage, cedars studded
abundantly on hills right & left of Valley 110 ¾ to Springs, & slough
right of road Cloudy day Ther at noon 46 o, snow 2 in deep. level good road
strike Sandpitch creek on the left 112 ½ (m). Greasewood thick all over.
reach crossing of Sandpitch 114 ¼ . steep descent. 25 ft. Wide, 1 ½ (ft) deep, clear stream
Sage & Greasewood abundant. Mts. right & left black with cedar. level road
Willows on the banks of the Sandpitch - the road in two miles crossed a-
nother creek supposed to rise from Springs. Sage & Greasewood all over
right & left. level good road. Sun breaks thro - reach Camp by 5 PM.
on the North bank of Timpa creek – 123 ½ miles. cloudy & dark. Singing prayers & sing
few Indians attend at our devotions. Bro. Phelps tells about the Angel appearing to Joseph
Oliver David & Martin, & about translating Hieroglyphics few cedars & C Woods on banks 12 (ft) W. 18 in (deep)
Mond 3 Decr Snowing nearly all night. T 30 o, clearing up. S Wind.
little Snow in the valley (Pass on 2 miles to) Mound creek 2 (ft) Wide 6 (in) deep. Greasewood & Sage
all round, Camp draws near the Settlement, one house up, about
46 families in tents wagons &c. 1 P.M. fired off cannon, Bre
sing "Some fifty sons of Zion" all is well" Come all ye sons of Zion"
while passing the wagons and tents at the encampment of the
Sandpitch Settlers. cross City creek & Camp South bank 14 ft. Wide 18 in deep
130 ¾ miles. Parley very sick to day. Snowed a little. Rocky bottom
Tuesd 4th T 28 o Bre repairing wagons, greasing, fixing up,
Phelps & Jones at noon try to calculate Lat & Long. Lat 39 o 10'
Long 15' East of G S L City. Parley quite well to day. R. C.
Writing at Fa Richards all day. 5 Bre. come from Sandpitch
with us their names r Madison D Hambleton, Gardner G
Potter, Edward Everett, William Lowry & Sylvester Hewlitt
Captn Walker and his Indians are 70 miles from here up
the Sevir river, on our way. Bre. here busy getting wood, rock building
[Page 15 of 68]
Sawing - and fencing. Went with fa Richards to the place
designed for Fort. on the South of a Rocky bluff -
beautiful building sledge. any quantity. 6 rods from the
building spots for their houses, Rock naturally designed
for building, showed me on a Rock projecting over
& jutting out some characters engraved on stone
plain, visible representation of a man, something
on his head not unlike a bird with wings.
one hand behind him with fingers. other hand
before him holding on to something. pushing it
strait South, the (South) end of which rock is defaced or
worn away that the "something" aint all perfect.
Apparently cut on the stone with a punch. Thousands
of cedars within 1 mile of Fort, & thousands more another mile &c.
Good rich feed South of creek, cows increase in milk here
Cattle fatten fast. Redish earth clayey soil, Ther noon 46 o
Land gentle slope Fall of creek in distance of 3 miles
from Mouth of Kanyon Ther 22 o.
2 Wagons & 6 yokes of cattle & a tent, now fall in with the Sandpitch Bre
Wed 5. Left Copy of Journal, Letter to the Presy. & letter to
Dr R & T.B. with Phinehas Richards, also 2 Copies of Epistle
of the Presy “fo this branch. Phinehas promised to
send the letters on as soon as he could to G S L City
Left the nigh ox in the yoke Brigham bought for
this expedition in care of Bro: Shoemaker it being deemed
wisdom to leave it & take from Bro Shoemaker one in stead
till we return. he said to Fullmer, he would not consider himself
(Ther 21 o) responsible, but would take care of the ox like his
own cattle, 10 A.M. cattle up & hitched, horses also, cold clear
morning, 11 start, & make a new trail find where Barney
Ward & Shumway had went with wagons - go on their trail to
Low swamp at the end of the valley. - 133 ½ miles - go thro the
pass & strike down to the right ½ mile to cross South creek 10
ft. Wide -20 in deep. (136 ½ miles) 500 yds above where it flows into the Sandpitch
some pine, cedar & small Birch on its banks, poor Sage Sand
[Page 16 of 68]
Decemr 1849
all round, Red clayey earth. cold day T 42. in shade -
made rocks of Gravel & Red earth on the right. Mts on the left
black with cedar groves, see the peaks of Mts above the dense white
clouds. Dimic, Pioneering. To Reed creek 139 ¼ 3 ft wide 12 in. deep
we have traveled from the crossing of South creek on the East
of Sandpitch creek, on the creek bottom plenty grass, but
we travel thro small sage & Red earth - tolerable good road -
all day. Camp ½ mile past Reed creek. 3 P.M. Good feed on
the bottoms of Sandpitch a few rods to the right. T 21 o
R. C. on guard. midnight watch - Camp prayers & singing
Thurs 6th T 34 o. N Wind. Start at ½ 9 A.M. To Fir Creek 20
ft Wide, 15 in deep 141 ¼ . Fir, cedar, & Pine on its banks.
Travel over barran, clayey land, some places, but very little Sage
or Greasewood, not unlike the land between the South pass. crossing
of Pacific creek & the (Dry) Sandy - excellent road, all day, follow Indian
trail & Shumways track, Captn Brown & few others fixing any little
steep places in the road, R. C. Teaming to day. Ther they say
at noon was 27 o very cold day - cloudy. strike towards the Sevier
Angling. Wind cold, blowing S.W. up the Sevier, see fires a head
travel up the Sevier, which is to the right a few hundred yards
Descend to lower land and cross small creek 3 ft. Wide. 10 in deep
149 ¼ - Camp at 2 ½ P.M. on the Sevier Many willows, some
feed at this point, yards wide - ft. Deep 152 ¼ . . Five Utes
in Camp tell us Walker up the Sevier hunting. Shumway camped
a few miles a head of us, has sent for Walker to come and trade.
See the Wasatch Mts a head of us to day, above the clouds. T 28 o
Frid 7th. T 10 o Snowed a little during night. cold day. cloudy
start at 20 to 9 A.M. As the Wagons started Captn Walker & another
Indian rides into Camp said Glad to see us (believed) knew
he would see us soon, for he dreamed he would, told us
he had lots of trade, wished us to go back down the Sevier about
a mile where there was good bottom with feed. Parley wishes
him to go a head & Camp with us said no feed, Parley sends
[name smudged & unreadable] after the wagons to tell them come back & go
[Page 17 of 68]
down stream to where Walker would shew us. Camp had gone
on nearly a mile turn back & Camp on the Sevier, 1 ½
miles below this mornings encampment. cold day. 155 ½ miles
Parley reads letter from Brigham to Captn Walker Dimic interprets it
tells about the sack of Flour for him, he makes no answer till he sees
Arrapin his Brother, all the band is coming & will encamp with us
tells Parley no pass over these Mts S.E. & no good Country over there
little Water, don't run far, Rocky, shewed him the map he showed
points in it & told what Country he was acquainted & what he was
not, like an experienced Geographer, all astonished at him point
out on the map, says some Country where we could raise Corn
on the Rio Virgin, says the Pi Eads dying off fast, whole wika up
die in one sleep. Coy.start off with Parley to make a Ford.
Parley & Captn Brown starts to hunt a pass over the Mts
Ther 28 - Indians come in by the dozens, Good many nice
horses, & packs, & Dogs, &c blowing from the West, & snowing
cold, many of them sick with the meazles, hear them making
medicine. see them sucking one anothers feet, forehead &c. stabed a Dog
because their village sick. Barney Ward, gives Parley some information
Sat 8th T 21. a horse traded for, , few Buckskins &c. very high priced, James
Allred, Charles Shumway, came in last night, find, coal, Salt, &
iron ore, their iron ore questioned, & other curiosities which Shumway
was going to inform Brigham off. Parley, Dan Jones & Dimic
goes & prays for the Indians at Walkers request. rebukes their
meazles, by laying hands on them in the name of Jesus. Walker
makes long speech, said he'd come with us but his ppl r all sick
the best he can do for us, send his Bro. Ammomah with us. he wished
to or might that, he might come back on the earth & live with Shinaub
after he died & his Spirit (will) went to Shinaub who gave it he al-
ways listened to the good words of ours, wished all to come American and
Mormon & live in peace, he would not fight any more, had done fighting (&c)
Start about 10 A.M. Dimic brings Indian guide Ammomah along
with 2 horses, reach Coal creek, Difficult turn in Crosssing,
18 ft. Wide, 14 in deep, Gravelly. Willows on banks
Walkers mother laying here sick, 162 miles , cold cloudy.
Indians shoot a Pi Ute boy. they had bought for a Gun
[Page 18 of 68]
Decemr 1849
because they were sick & afflicted in camp, sing over one another & suck their feet [hed?]
Parley gives instructions to Camp, about travelling together &
Coy going with him to explore. Captn Green & some of his
ten ahead fixing roads to day. good hard claying soil
Beautiful Prairie road, through sage & Greasewood
Ravine, steep. 154 ¼ . Pass over small creek 10 ft. wide 4 in deep &
Camp on banks of the Sevier 155. Willows, sage & Greasewood, Sevier
nearly froze over. Indian guide sick. Camp prayers & singing.
Sab 9. T. 5 o below Zero. N Wind, start 9 A.M. sun breaks thro
Good feed up the river, Descend to Sevier bottom. 168 ¼ - Excellent feed
few willows, Snowed last night, inch deep all over, Red buttes on
the Mts to the right & cedars plentiful, See feed on the top of smooth
Mtn 169 To Crossing of Sevier 20 yds Wide 14 [word struck] (in) deep. few Willows
To Dry creek 172. Plenty drift wood rotton & dry ceder laying along the road
some few cotton woods to the right of road. within 1 mile you cross several
Dry creeks with Dry cedar laying in them. & to the left of road is
some good dry feed. River, suppose 1 mile distant. 1' noon. 18 in shad
strike down to the left. Camp at an isthmus. Carrel in front of it
Good feed. Sevier pretty near froze over. Good road all day. 176 ¾
Willows, & burnt bullberry, for fuel. Camp prayers, reading & Singing
T 6 o below zero.
Mond. 10th.T 21 below Zero. extreme hard frost. river froze over. hard.
Cattle all on the Peninsula. Good feed, but too cold for to eat. Indian
guide getting better. Start at 9 (h) 25 (m). Pass good feed, & nice bottom
David Fullmer says twould be good place for a Settlement. Snow 1 in. deep
all over. Sun strong. Slough. froze over. 179 ¼ . Have never yet turned
many rods from the road to Camp. Parley thinks this good loamy
soil & some Red clayey soil, believes the Water could be brought
from the river up above. Timber, on the Mts West 5 & 6 miles off
could not be easily obtained, Two tenpenny Utes, come into Camp
recognize Dimic speak to him & Ammomah, they over the high ridge
of Mts on the East, see the Sevier a head angling up to the right,
we cross the Mts to the right, (where) small ridge, bear to the right.
nobody being ahead we have to avoid, the bluff on descent on the left.
strike the Sevier 186 ¾ (m). Bre. turn out their teams Parley comes
[word smudged and illegible} & hunts ford with Captn Brown 3. (h) 25. (m) P.M. Camped T all day 28
[Page 19 of 68]
Snow 2 in deep. Greasewood, Sage, Dry Willows abundant. S Wind.
Camp singing & prayers. Parley finishes Hymn "O come come away"
T at 9 P.M. 10 o below O. find Good ford 1 ¾ miles above no ice. better feed
above, & more, Dry bushes for fuel.
Tues 11th T 13 o below Zero. Sun breaks thro at 9 A.M. T 40 o start 10 AM
Pass thro large Sage, reach Ford find ice collected & dam d it up 1 ½
feet deep. Pass on, search above for a Ford. 189 ¼ crossing. best place to
Camp below 1 ½ miles, on account of feed, fuel &c. Sevier 18 yds. Wide 1 ½ ft. deep
Snow two inches deep. strike to the left, sage & greasewood all along on
the banks of the Sevier. at this point we leave the river to cross the Mts
where the Spanish trail crosses them Large hollow 193. ascend snow
gets to 2 & 3 inches deep. sage all over. reach Dry [word struck] Kanyon creek ½ hour before
sundown. Camp in hollow. Plenty fuel. Snow for Water, feed on bench foot
of the Mt south side of creek. band of Indians Camped above us on Creek
Parley comes into Camp, having been a head exploring, sings, Extempore 198
(O Boys we've found the trail, Leading thro' a beautiful vale) T noon 38
We've found out the trail boys where over we go
Tis a rich Grassy vale mid the Mountains of snow
And the meadows beyond it look pleasant and fair
And the evergreen forest is flourishing there T 28 o
O come come away to this sweet Southern vale
Through the mountains of snow boys we've found out the Trail
Ammomah says we don't make enough medicine for him, an
old medicine squaw at Indian camp, he is going there, & if gets
better in 2 or 3 days he will come on & overtake us. S Wind
Weds 12th T 20 o Cattle got away down to the bottom, this is the end
of the Sandpitch Indians land. Pi-eads uver the Mts.East
Pi vants over the Mts. West. (this was told by Dimic yesterday
before we crossed the Sevier) strong South Wind. been windy all
night, these r Lake Utes camped above us, the Indians call the Pi eads
Pi Utah. or Pi Utes, Sunny morning. Start 20 to 11. cedars plenty in
creek & on the sides of the Mts small white oaks, on the creek. Snow 3 &
4 in deep. T 40 o in shade. sun strong Ascend narrow steep Kanyon
199 ¾ . the last ¼ mile very steep. large rock in the way. narrow
pass Summit 200 ½ . doubled teams. snow 7 in deep. drifted in
places to 1 foot deep. Cut some cedars out of our way.
[Page 20 of 68]
Decemr 1849
otherwise, a firstrate Mountain pass, nothing in comparison
to what we anticipated, crossing, it being so easy, foot of the
Mountain 204 enter Merry vale, a beautiful valley, covered luzuriant
ly with Dry Grass all over, not a sage brush scarcely to be seen
while flowing thro' the valley is the Sevier, which is froze over
& Pine growing in the bottom, Mts black they say its iron ore.
Put up 200 mile board. at 204 ½ miles. Pass half mile further
on & encamp near Willow patch by wayside. no Indian
trail nor Spanish trail can I discover. said to be a
great Deer country by Mountaineers, discover many D tracks
Camp on the bend of Sevier, near Willow patch 205 miles.
Sun ½ hour high, hem(m)ed in here by Mts sun sets soon - Willow fuel,
after Dancing a little. Parley said a name for this valley just
came into his mind. "Merry vale". Cannon fired for the
party who with Captn Brown went in pursuit of the horses
& lost ox. ½ hour after, Captn & Coy come in with all the
horses which they found on the Sevier opposite where we camped Tues
day night, the lost ox belong to M D Hambleton could not be
found T 38 o Camp prayers & singing. Parley said he had
not seen much of this valley yet. but he never felt so like
home since we left the [Yohat?] valley as here, has no doubt
but this will be settled, intends to look into it. explore it &
report it, felt thankful to find ourselves so comfortably
situated to night with thousands of feed for our animals
& sheltered by these high Rocky rugged Mts The grass
here richly mixed with fine rushes. Cattle like them. The
valley white with grass, which is so deep, where there is
snow, you can't see it, but the soil hard froze.
Thurs 13th. T before sun up 35 o mild pleasant morning. Parley with Coy
going exploring - start 10 A.M. cross the Sevier on the ice 15 yds Wide
205 ¾ Captn Green, & Bro. J. Packer, keeps specimens of these black
Mts Bro: Arnold says there is iron ore in the blackish Rocky
Mts Go on something less than mile cross a deep stream, 3
yards wide ice breaks thro, bad descent for the want of
[Page 21 of 68]
a very little fixing. ground froze hard. ox got run over owned
by Bro: Williams. nigh ox being slow. its foot was caught by
the wheel - the bow key broke. & both nigh Wheels run over, it
laying on the Willows which was put on the top of the ice in the
creek. Pass thro thick sage. cross over, small creek 207 miles,
& come into beautiful valley, rich in feed. Soil light & loose
as soot. saleratus however, dispersed all over, come to Sage &
Greasewood - then into beautiful feed again. travelling to day
on the bottom near the river, Willows on its bank. this bottom
from ½ mile to 1 ½ & 2 miles broad. (T 46 o)the bluffs which rise
above the bottom, bare, with little Sage & Greasewood, see
at the mouth of one kanyon, apparently some large
Fir & Pine 2 miles distant, near the same spot on the
Mts & bluffs, good deal of cedar, as there was in the kan
yon we came down into this merry vale. Camp on Sevier
211 ¼ Three & 20 (m). P.M. excellent feed. some snow on the ground
but its at the roots of the Grass. river not quite froze over here T37 o
South Wind, blowing down thro' this valley, all day. quite breezy at times
Parley & Exploring Coy went about 10 miles a head. did not find forks of river
Camp prayers & singing. killed California cow this morning.
Frid 14th mild S Wind. T 31 o horses loosed. being tied & hobbled round Camp
last night. 9 A.M. starting - 213 Rabbitt kanyon creek Wide
8 in deep. Cotton woods on banks. reach river bottom again 216 m
Pond of water left of road. leave bottom again few hundred
yards - small creek kanyon. 220 miles. Cotton woods on it
Bunch grass feed, 1 yard wide, 4 in deep. Willows plenty.
Camp on South West bank of Sevier. S. W. fork, ¾ mile from the
forks, Good feed, Willows abundant. Dry Cotton woods by going
to the Forks. 4 P.M. camped. on the other fork discover cotton woods
all along banks. Passed over some tolerable good bench land 223 ¼ (m)
Ther 36. at 6 P.M. Camp prayers, singing & Dancing, snowing
Sat 15th T 27 o Snowing 2 & 3 inches snow all round, Contemplated
sending mission up the left hand fork, but too cloudy & snowing 10 [next character illegible]
225 Slough of Warm Spring - bad crossing. to Kanyon creek
[Page 22 of 68]
Decr 1849
12 feet wide 1 foot deep, Plenty of Willows & bulberries at crossing
226. recross Sevier. 228 ½ travelled thro' some good bottom land
Go up Sevier to 232 ¼ . turn back & camp on Sevier at 233 ¼
Snow 4 inches deep. T 30 o South Wind. W W Phelps & others report
the road a head impassable. Parley goes up to the left but finds no
pass. [larger text in pencil inserted = practicable pass for waggons]
Sab 16th Fitting out exploring Coy & Captn Brown, to go & find
a road. Coy start at 10 a.m. Camp rests, cattle driven to
feed. Good mountain bunch Grass, Sevier has a swift current
here, Cedars plenty round. beautiful day. 20 [m]-6 [h] - Exploring Coy return
R. C. composes the following when coming home. & sings it. to camp
We've found out the trail boys where over we go {Tat 6 a m 2 o
It lyes thro the mountains, deeply covered with snow { below cypher
It's a rough rocky road, the rout we have been
But there is plenty of Deer, for them we have seen [written sideways in the margin
We looke'd away far beyond, but nothing could see The route is “Browns pass”
Save the blue expanse of Ether so clear & so free named by Bro. Sewart ]
But to a high mountain Some of us did go
And we spied out a trail where the mormons can go.
Parley had it sung again, the Captn Brown makes report of the
rout, as being impracticable but barely passible, rocky road all
along for 6 miles, winding over a succession of kanyons, steep as
cents & descent, cobblestones all the Way, nearly perpendicular in
places. Snow drifts where the horses could not pass, we had to get
off & stamp the snow away & make a track. the snow being col=
lected in Drifts on the lee side of the ascents. Southerly Wind - Camp
in high Spirits to go & try it. Parley prays - singing in Camp
R. C. being absent W W Phelps keeps Thermometerical observation
&c. being Topographical Engineer, many Camp songs making.
Mond 17th T 31 o South Wind. mild, Parley exhorting to early start,
9 A.M. start, large Coy with Parley breaking roads, levelling steep
pitches, removing rocks, &c. strike out from Sevier West, up kanyon.
Rocky road, about 2 ½ miles up, perpendicular descent, road fixed
& Mormon team hold back with ropes, both wheels locked Pass some
good ford, but 8 & 9 in snow. Plenty cedars. Camp with one half
[Page 23 of 68]
of the Wagons at foot of steep long (4 ¾) hill in Deer kanyon, double
teams with the other half & ascend, then descend, &c. &c. to
kanyon creek where we leave the wagons, & bring back
back the teams. in the ravines or kanyons coming from the
Mts to the right of us perhaps 1 mile or 1 ½ to Summits, there is
Clear Water, & plenty timber, especially up above where we cross them
some large Fir & Pine trees. Boys cold & tired, snow so deep
to wade thro, holding wagons back, pulling oxen up steep pitches
thin the oxen pulling the Wagons; tedious work. Wind, & small frozen
flakes of Snow on the tops of the ridges like to blow thro a
fellow Cloudy day. Hambleton & Brown kill 2 Deer, in this
kanyon, both near each other. return teams get into Camp
nearly 5 P.M. Parley & Captn Brown come back. T 31 o
The Wagons, who r camped on N side of the Mts have come 4 3/16 (mile) . 237 ½
Tues 18th Snowing nearly all night. T 33 o. 10 A.M. Brethren
come in from the Camp. say it snowed 1 foot more last night at
their encampment. ceases snowing 11 A.M. Horn blows. 1 P.M. start-
ing - ascend steep Rocky long hill. Wind blowing the Snow in our faces
on the ridge, Cloudy. Snowing a little, descend steep hill. 12 men hold
back with ropes, & both wheels locked. then ascend, wind to the right.
& ascend long hill, snow on the lee side of the hills drifted from 1 to
2 ½ feet high. sideling, & Rocky, but the snow so deep Rocks
covered. then descend sideling steep Rocky hollow. men
with ropes hold back, ascend, & strike to the right, steep
Rocky, & snow drifted very deep, then descend, steep Rocky
pitch to 1st Kanyon, Birch, Pine, Fir on creek, which is frozen
& covered with snow, so the Water running can be heard
easier than seen, ascend nearly perpendicular, Snow drifted very
deep on the ascent side of the hill. Wind from the South & blowing
on the ridges. between these divides we cross like to tear our wagon
covers away & cold on the sides of our face, descend to 2nd
Kanyon creek, timber plenty, some feed to be seen, above the snow
but not much, the Snow shovelled away up this ascent, &
on each side of the oxen, snow as high as the oxen, nearly
perpendicular ascent, hitch rope round the oxen yokes & men
stand on the summit, & pull the oxen up, then they pull the
[Page 24 of 68]
Decr 1849
wagon up, that is the oxen. descend into 3d.Kanyon creek, where
the wagons camped, Plenty timber, Fulmer & Phelps, make a temp
orary bridge over the creek. 2 ½ miles from where we started
this morning. start up, & keep to the right round the Mts
Snow very deep, being drifted all along where we pass thro'
men a head breaking road, shovelling the snow. others hold-
ing their wagons, move down sideling into Hollow & Camp
turn the cattle out no water. Snow 2 feet deep at en=
campment, Plenty of dry timber, T 30 o 1 ½ from the last
Kanyon where the other encampment. - 241 ¼ - Parley calls
R.C. into carriage - where Dan Jones & Wadsworth were. Sings hymn
Parley said he felt like praying. he prayed, asked the Lord to
forgive the camp for their vanity, folly, & wickedness - interceded with
the Lord not to hedge up our way, but to enable us to get out
of these Mts & to find a pass, to have mercy & compassion on
this Camp, & to treast us kindly & for the sakes of those in Camp
who keep thy name sacred, & seek to fulfill our mission, &c.
&c. Schyler Jennings swore & dam'd Captn Jones in Gods
name to take his horse away from near his waggon, & theaten
him with Club in hand. Witnesses, Captn Jones, Wadsworth &
others, had pleasant talk till nearly 10 P.M.
Wed 19th. T 13 o . clear Beautiful morning. Sun rises, shines
strong, cattle go out from camp, (whither they had come in last
night for shelter) & find little feed on Mt sides. Capt Haight
& others arrive from the other Camp. 11 A.M. Cattle gathered up
yoking & some have commenced starting back for other wagons.
Parley, WW Phelps Nathan Tanner & R. C. go a head to explore & beat
track. R. C. goes ½ mile down Hollow running S.E. where
WW Phelps stoped to inform the Camp, that, some feed
above the snow here, & Cedars on the right, up the Mt
large Buck Deer, with large horns, turns up hollow
running North, Parley asked R. C. to shoot him,
followed him, shot him, knocked him over, but got
up & bounded off. Snow so deep my mule some=
times drowned in snow drifts, see other Deer, tracked
them, on to our road again
[Page 25 of 68]
Wagons - get doubled up last hills by 3 ½ (p.m) Pass over beautiful level
road. Get next into a small Basin. no outlet but Southerly to the
Waters Snow 1 foot deep on level then pass down narrow hollow
at the foot of which, you turn down hollow to the left ½ mile then
Camped at the last point where cedar is on the Mt on the right.
Camped at 5 P.M. Boys (244 ¼) packing wood from the Mts shovelling snow
away from where they intend to have fires & Camping spot.
Parley comes back before 6 P.M. found the only place where they can
pass down. went to where the waters run the other way. these hollows where
we camped (fun) down into the Sevier winding to the left. afterwards made a
long exhortation & preach to the Bren told them, the Lords spirit grieved on
account of the folly, nonsence, & vanity in Camp, said some had threatened
to knock one another down & cursed [word struck] in the name of God. it was wrong
to use the name of God have no fellowship for those who take our Gods name
in vain & especially to curse their Bre, said need for us all to pray & ask
Gods forgiveness. said he felt to do so. pleased at the kindness & love evinced
at first. but too much folly, lightmindedness, & nonsence. yet the Lord has
lead us, our Guardian Angels vexed but have not left us, brought us to the
only pass in these Mts , ,very thankful to the Lord. prayed. T 21 o
While Parley speaking Jennings said in hearing of George Matson & John
Lowery , that he'd a good mind to black his mouth, &c. using the word damed
Thurs 20th T 25 some feed above the snow down this hollow. no water
here but the snow. Coy of hunters, sent out of each Ten as directed by
Parley last night. Cloudy day. Wind blowing down the hollow some
Cattle missing. hitch up whats here & start about noon T 45 o
Sun shines away South, & often does while it is cloudy all round
we must be on bottoms whose altitude is higher than Mts we
have passed, the land now hilly & knolly a head S & W. many
miles not even (cedar) timber, left a high valley. the Sevier running down
thro' it. Plenty Wheat Grass on these vallies, & other Grass which
is covered with Snow about 1 foot deep on these plains, 8 or 10
miles a head, the bench land (beyond which we can see
no high rugged Mts) covered with timber, cedar I presume
beyond this surely its the basin, to the right of us these
high Rocky rugged peaky Mts (at the foot of which we
have been passing these 4 days) level down to hills where
[Page 26 of 68]
Decr 1849
there may be a pass down somewhere, foot of Hill 245 ½ -- 200
yards up doubled on [unknown word] of the deep snow, Pass a fine Doe
the [Word crossed out] hunters have killed & brought to the road for the Wagons
to pick up, [&c & Potter] further down this hollow good deal of Wheat
grass, , & bunch Grass on each side of us. the hollow
frequently 100 yds broad, Pass open space from where the
Water may flow to the left down to the Sevier & some
of the hollows would only admit of their waters flowing
down the hollow (West) we r travelling, Snow only 6 in
deep, gets less as we go down the hollow, Camp at elbow
in the kanyon to the right, Cedars plenty, Considerable grass
above the snow, no water, in the Creek bed. 249 ¼ - T 30.
Bre. come in who were hunting lost cattle, say they found them
on the Sevier, down near where we Camped Sabbath last -
unable to drive them here in the night so they left them.
Parley arrives. eats Supper, Calls Camp together by (the) Horn
as usual for prayers, said, he wished to report. & he'd begin
at the date, "Wasatch range of Mts. Mormon pass, 4 miles
(or 1 hours ride) above Summer gate, Lat 38 (only guessed at)
Decr 20th 1849 - Bre we av been down into the valley where
the waters flow, to the[word crossed out} {Little Salt Lake} or somewhere else [3 words crossed out]
4 miles below here r huge rocks nearly closing up this kanyon
but when you get to them, you'll find room enough for a
wagon to pass. below these rocks (which we av called Sum=
mer Gate) the weather is mild, the sun shines, but few
inches of snow. about 2 mile further there is a large Rock,
the most beautiful cornishing on it you have seen in large Cities
got a few miles further down, went on to the side hill
discovered a valley [crossed out word] 60, miles long, or more, no snow
on the bottom land save where there is a Gopher hill, or on
the benches, there is some water, about a mile from this encamp
ment, but steep banks to it, & it sinks in little ways
could discover no water in the valley, a head, therefore want
an early start to morrow, so that we may get to water
in the valley, tho' it is 60 miles long that we can see
does not appear to be broader than 1 & some places
may be 2 miles, Camp prayers & singing. Practising Music
[Page 27 of 68]
Frid 21st T 28 o all rise at the blowing of the horn as
Parley wished last night, men go right off & herd the cattle
start nearly 9 a.m. 251 miles. Water, running in bed of
creek, little brackish. Cattle can get easily to it, many of
the crossings of this creek or bed of Creek, steep, rugged
& Rocky. Pass lots of good feed. side hills to the left bare
from snow, good bunch grass on them, Sun shines clear
sky T in shade 44 o. at Summer Gate, about noon,
252 ¾-,. Cornishing rock 252 ½ , hollow gets wider feed
more plentiful, Carriage tongue breaks, Hambletons wagon
comes uncoupled, Rocky going, but the snow helps us
along among the rocks, & had it not been for the deep snow
coming over these Rocky divides or hollows or kanyons, our
Cattle's feet must have been severly injured if not many of
them rendered entirely disabled to travel. Cattle getting
very poor & reduced many of them. Camp at 257 miles
in Little Salt {Lake} Hollow of Kanyon - Bre come in from
a head, suppose they can see nearly to the Colerado, that
the little Salt Lake is over these Mts to our right, see other
Lakes in the valley ahead of us &c. Bro: Isaac Hatch
says he knows there is Gold & Silver in these Mts
his mineral rod is attracted the strongest kind, is
sanguine that he could find Gold, Isaac Brown
kills a Catamount [the word Wild is written diagonally above in pencil] (Wild Cat), is dressed very fat, Bre come in
bring 13 head (W) of Cattle, from about 1 mile beyond where
we turned back on the Sevier Saturday night last, had
not got to drink on the Sevier (suppose) Good feed
here, on this bottom & some bench land to the right
covered with cedars. Bre. pick up curiosities & keep
them from time to time, T 42. Camp prayers & singing. moonlight
Sat 22nd T 28. Start about 9. clear sunny mornin - Snow
melting fast, R. C. & Edward Everett takes right off to the right
over these Mts,.see where the California road comes into this Little
Salt Lake valley-- finds, lots of crockery ware, Red Rocks
with curious holes & cavities in them. Plenty Deer tracks
[Page 28 pf 68]
Decemr 1849
Isaac Brown strikes into California road, comes down it nearly
3 miles, noon T 56. Bre kill 21 Rabbitts, 1 Wolf, 1 Fox, another
Catamount. See the Little Salt Lake, wind round to the
left of this valley, near the bench land, beautiful day, scarcely
a cloud to be seen, Camp among the Greasewood & Sage which
we have passed thro' all day, at 267 miles. feed on the bottom,
a head & to the right, no water, little snow. T’ warm day
travelled (when exploring) over green Grass on the Mts & large groves of
cedars, some think about 32 horses in the crowd. many cattle foot sore
r so lame they have to be drove.
Sab T 20 o - beautiful morning - scarcely a breath of wind 10 A.M.
start, strike to the right, angling across the bottom of the valley, Pleanty
feed, cattle very dry, middle of the valley, no sage nor greasewood
Plenty dry grass, high perpendicular rock to the right, then low ridge
of Mts or knolls studded with cedar, Mts been black with cedars
these 2 days. Ground hard froze on the bottom. good travelling. little
snow in places, melting fast. [Sung?] strong, clayey soil. Muddy walking
Come to join Cal road, (2) 169 ½ T in shade 58 o sloppy 273 ¾ Two Springs
40 yds left of road. Boys in thin shirt sleeves. Warm in the sun.
Cattle lick the snow, Water them ¼ mile on, near Sulphur Springs
left of road on a small round knoll 20 yds from road where the
ice has thawed. Sage & Greasewood all round, (2) 174 ¾ - Springs by wayside
to the right. good water, feed ahead & to the left ¼ mile. & also other Springs
Pass thro some good feed & soil, strike to the left up to Red Creek
or [Rozcaw?] & Camp North side, little feed at crossing. Sundown 278 miles,
beautiful Star light night Freezing. Camp prayers & singing.
T 38 o when we know its Freezing. the fires must have influence, &c.
Stream spreads into many branches, Wolves howl during night
Mond 24th T 28 o. Parley calls meeting of all, see Minutes
South wind, beautiful day, Cattle feed good up towards
the Mt , Many exploring, after minerals & precious stones,
find Emery in the creek, Ox killed, jerking meat for
those who pack from this point, T at noon in the shade
60 o in the sun 75 oBre. fixing up their Pack saddles, &c.
&c. for journey. Horses brought up at night, & tied to wagons
Parley judges this to be a good settlement for 50 families T 32 o
[Page 29 of 68]
Tuesd 25th T 28 o Bre preparing to start. T at noon 58 o
meeting of Camp, see Minutes &c. Jos. Matthews & Schylur
Jennings have an honorable furlough to go home, & that they
carry our mail - Voted that David Fulmer be Prest. Isaac
[crossed out word] (C. Haight) Captn & see to clerking. Parley gives Camp in=
structions about guarding Camp incessantly never more
than half of camp leave at once, Can send out exploring parties
for 10 days if needful, exhorted them, told them equal share
in the glory whether go or stay. R. C. Writes letter to
Presy. Cotillion parties, dancing. T 31 o. Many letters Writing
Wed 26th. T 26 o. beautiful morning. Parley hears my letter read
sanctions Do & dictates another to the Presy refer to letters
Minutes &c. for particulars done here. (Matthews & Jennings start) T 80 o on Phelps bosom
Packers start at 12 ½ P.M. all the Camp was turned out to
catch Smiths mule "Camanche" R. C. volunteered to ride it, seeing
Parley wanted to pack R. C.'s riding pony, R. C. got on with
his legs tied he followed the others but about 3 miles a head he stumbled
in a gopher hole, & jumped clean out of his Saddle
backwards, there being no crouper. pass over Big Creek 14 ft.
Wide. 6 in deep. swift current. feed plenty here, Willows plenty.
Go on 2 miles farther, find a Brindle 8 year old ox, white spotted
on each side of his back. & down the hind parts whitish spade on his
forehead, short horns. R. C. sent back on the "Camanche" to Camp
with it. eats supper at camp, a little after sundown then
start & make the (forward) Camp by 8 P.M. at [crossed out word] (South) Creek
8 ft. Wide 6 in deep. Plenty willows & some Cotton woods Good
feed up stream T 32 o at sundown. this creek runs down on
a ridge, or the highest ground, (soil excellent), comes out (10 miles) of the range of Mts East (Wasatch) flows down into the valley. Camp prayers & singing.
Thurs 27th T 29 o beautiful morning. (9 a.m.) Pass on 3 miles, good feed.
good soil. 3 Packs come loose, some flour lost. beautiful place
for a Settlement, rich feed, Plenty cedar easy of access, we now
strike thro heavy sage all round. go on a mile or two to the
South outlet of this valley which ushers us into a large extensive
valley. Springs of water to the left of road, Good meadow down to
[Page 30 of 68]
the right. beautiful thick grass. Mt range still continues to our
left & if anything more thickly studded with cedar, can see in places
up the kanyons either Fir or Pine. T 50 o we leave the road Wet
& muddy walking in this big valley, strike road again then leave it & Camp
on Muddy creek. Plenty cotton wood timber for 1 mile down. Large trees,
Goodly number of them, & can see them scattering on Creek bank
which runs down Northerly for many miles, The Land here is a Red
wash from these Mts on our left, this Muddy creek is
& comes out of passes on these Mts some Cloudy. Boys this morning
found 3 Wagon tires, the irons of a wagon, notice written on a board- "Captn
Fly's Coy passed here 16th Decr 12 in deep of snow. M Beardsell of St Louis
left wagon here "signed by "Sands" Find here to night, a chain. Thousands
of cedars on the Mts left, some good feed here, 12 miles to day. T 30 o
Frid 28th T 32 o Horses 3 ½ miles on the Mts ((unknown word)) left R. C. &
others went for them. excellent feed. start about 9. good morning.
Pass over this Muddy creek where it flows in 2 considerable streams
each about 12 feet wide. 5 or 6 in deep, down a little ways in flows
apparently in about 40 or 50 streams overflowing all round, bringing
down floodwood, Red wash, or alluvial & depositing it all over
cedars abundant, & easy of access, leave the road & strike
to the left, aiming to travel at the foot of the benches, for this
Red alluvial, clayey deposit coming from the Redish Mts is
miry & muddy, horses sink 3 & 4 inches every step. Pas over sage
The valleys with this Red deposit is all made soil Parley finds
some whitish flints, silver blosom, mountain (or mourning) crystal.
good black streaks in it, reach Lake creek 2 ½ feet Wide, water
flowing in it. this creek runs on a ridge, beautiful piece of farming
land above & where we cross [unknown word] fed, Red clayey Sandy soil, some
soap masqual, cedars abundant & plentiful all along the hills
& Mts on the left. (Wasatch range) the Lake is about 3 miles down
judge it to be nearly 1 ½ miles long. ¼ broad. Plenty (10 miles) Willows on
creek banks. the Soil or Clayey land apparently has never been
froze, keep up pretty near the Mts bad some very muddy walking
hard on our animals. Clouds begin to be heavy & while passing over us
[word smudged] some of their contacts cold. Ther 29 o. at noon, come up to
[Page 31 of 68]
where Parley calls it Summit Creek. Rock gate, not so high as
Devils Gate the washes & floods from this creek apparently flow
both ways in this long valley. looking South we can see no
end to immensity. whether this is the run out of the Basin or
not can't tell, we have passed over so many rims, but this
creek, flows Northerly into the Lake just before described Thun=[=der]
Good feed, Plenty fuel, Indian Wika ups see tracks of a
man, valley continues Southward. Pass on a mile & camp
in Dry cedar hollow where it comes out of a kanyon, with
pretty high Rocks at the Gate, Snow falling. Parley says we come
14 miles, nearly all the Camp say 17 miles. but Parley told 13 yesterday
& it was only put down 12. so this to day be 15 & therefore makes
Parleys distances, animals tired going thro this Clayey land. T 31 o.
Keeps snowing. Get crotches, build Mormon wika ups with cedars
cedar carpeting. comfortable bed under. Parley & Dan takes shelter
with us. Horses go up towards the cedars. Plenty fuel. Snow plenty
Sat 29th T 28 o cloudy morning South Wind, Jones Dreams
about the Indians coming to meet us. Thunder heard many
times yesterday. Passed high Mts yesterday afternoon perpendicular.
to day move on at 10 ¼ A.M. snow considerable last night
Strong Northerly Wind blowing down this valley which may here
be 3 miles broad, a few hundred yards creek, coming from
Mts on the left, flowing over perpendicular rock. travel near
the base of these Red Clayey Mts rocky, studded thick with
cedar. 2 miles brings to large creek steep banks, flows
down thro' this valley Southward. 3 in of old snow.
Clayey walking. noon Cupola creek, 3 ft broad 3 in deep
Pass in between the Mts or where the creek flows out of
the Mts & see high Red Cupolas. (clouds) their top
buried in clouds, but can see them when the clouds
pass away, see about 80 miles a head, Mts blackest
with snow on them, clear sky a head, ¼ to 1 P.M. Sun
breaks thro, Waters still flowing over Rocks making hollows
& a few dry ravines to cross. some packs require fixing again
1 (h)-22 (m) PM. cross Southern creek 12 ft wide 17 in deep. cotton wood
[Page 32 of 68]
Decemr 1849
on banks, ascend hill 1 ½ miles, snow having dissolved
the animals would sink 6 & 7 in every step, save when
they put their feet on Rocks, which r thickly studded
all along, miserable travelling. steep hill, mule gets
thrown at the cedars with its pack. Parley finds it
impracticable to travel farther so, & strikes to the
left over creek again. Green grass. see Indians fire
& tracks, rough steep Rocky hill to go down. my
mule's feet gets so deep in the (clayey earth) throws Itself twice
to get out, cross Southern creek again, which gathers many
streams (from these high snowy mts 2 or 3 miles to our left), in
a short distance. travel down on the left hand of the creek nearly
2 miles. good going but rocky. Twould be difficult (if possible) to
bring a wagon down from 1st crossing of Southern creek. Camp
on banks of creek, Plenty feed, some green at the roots. High
bluffs or overhanging Mts 20 rods from the foot of which is our
Camp, very high, Camped about sundown, Parley reckons 11 miles.
cold N Wind. T 34 o
Sab 30th T 24 o. cold N Wind, Parley dreams about talking with
the Indians down a little ways who grow corn. Sandy soil here. lots
of Emery on this creek, 9 ½ camp starts, Recross crick, Pass green
grass 6 in high, Pass Prickly pears, Soap Maskal, & Cactus, also
(Tam in ump,) a weed the Indians use for Tobacco. Green leaves, branches pass thro’ scattering cedars
Red like they were varnished. Pass over a rugged
stoney, sandy, almost indescribable country, thrown together
in dreadful confusion, bad passes a wagon (road) could scarcely
ever be made to go thro there. The country reminds me of
that near the South pass by the Sandys only a hundred times more
so. follow a dry rivine. Winding to the left. for 2 ½ miles then strike
on to hill, see three Indians, running apparently to head us,
Parley stops on the hill till we all come up. conclude to go
down & camp on the river. 12 miles, go down Kanyon &
Camp on river banks. Plenty ash & cotton woods, 3 Indians
come into Camp. Dimic talks to them, say there's no Water
between here & Colerado to go South. Walker comes this way
[Page 33 of 68]
to go to California. Say village one sleep from here, Plenty
horses they r Pi Utes, called by the Americans Pi eads,
have corn cut down, Navahoes have Wheat, they grow it
dont know anything about the White Indians. Smoke the
pipe of peace, Dimic asks them to stay till morning. they say
yes. they r fat, tolerably clad for this warm climate, one of
them has a Cassimere coat, Black hair, no beard nor whiskers
nor hair under their arm pits, all under the medium size, have
bows made of Mt sheep horns, wound round with sinew, of
which their bow string is, their arrows have 3 large feathers
in the buts & piece cane break, then ash wood points, round the
tip of the arrow, sinew is wound to prevent their arrows from split=
ting, some have arrow points of Iron been warm day T 64 o-- at
night T 39 o the Indians asked if Walker along with us. Dimic told
them we were Mormons not Americans, Horses feet sore with walking
over the rocks. one of the Indians says he sold his wife to Walker when
he gets any its from a horse, they cry for their companions to come, but they
either dont wish to come or r afraid. 3 Guarding the horses at a time &
one Guards the camp. Plenty bunch grass, tho we have passed thro some barren land
Mond 31st Indians cry for their Companions. one old man comes
into camp. says he was afraid of us, little while other 4 come, say they
were afraid, T 23 o cold, sun rises. beautiful morrning, 10 start. cross
the (Rio) Virgin, Pass a small Garden spot with some stalks of
corn, & many semlins, & some Grape vines, C Hopkins sees
3 flocks of Quails, cross a large branch of the Rio Virgin
18 yards wide. 1 foot deep. Rocky bottom, Indians guide
us but Dimic don't understand them well, some of them
talk too much Pi Ute, Pass over a large tract of
barren, some Greasewood & sage, Cactus, & Soap Masqul
strike on to the Virgin again, & cross it, Camp on
bottom on the (other) river, Good bottom feed, Watch
horses closely 3 on guard at a time, all leave but
one Indian whom we detain in camp T 50 o. some
cotton wood on banks & Willows. Broken, barren
land some places on the bottoms might be farmed
come 12 miles, beautiful night, T 38 o.
[Page 34 of 68]
Tuesd 1 January 1850. T 38 o cloudy morning
Rainey, 9 1/2 start Raining Pass over broken rugged
country Red sand, cross the Virgin which is a
swift, rocky stream. recross Virgin strike on to
a large bottom, Parley said before we crossed
it would make a good Settlement. Sandy
soil, Plenty Greasewood, & Cane break,
Cotton wood & some ash timber on the creek
strike a knoll where lots of hard earth
enware, streaked, strike stream coming
down from the right. lots of willows on
banks & cotton woods. Indians tell Parley
& Dimic about the land ahead, road &C.
Go right a head & cross stream, very bad
crossing, & strike up to the right 2 miles
& Camp, 10 miles to day Raining the
most of the time, Indians accompany
us from where they met Phelps alone,
when the rest of {us} had gone down on
the bottom, then Phelps being alone
they jumped up from the sage, come
with him & talk to Dimic said
afraid, did not know whether come
in peace or war, mean, dirty almost
naked creatures - many come into
Camp. Rain so hard I had to
hurry & now stop writing. Parley calls on R.C.
to sing, gather round & sing, all the Indians join &
try to sing with us - say they have no families died in sickness
about 17 of them, mire some of the animals, 2 rods from Camp
Hopkins finds corn stalks 11 feet long, some Pumpkin & squash vines
Indians say (& Ward said) if we go down the Virgin we must go
round many kanyons, Red Knolls, high Red bluffs perpendicular
like mts no timber, for a long way South East nothing
[Page 35 of 68]
but barren land. Indians say they willing we should come & live
with them, this stream we r camped on to night well timbered
Indians, all talk at once, rude, dirty mean & filthy. they see
we r prepared for them & guard them closely wanted us to feed
them, which we have done always when we eat ourselves. but
now they wish us to make beds for them, seeing it Rains so
say Walker is a good Indian, they have not killed any Americans
cattle this year, they adhere to Walker, love what he says, the land
is all ours if we come & settle among them, glad to av us
Wed 2 Janry. Raining T 39 o. Cloudy, strike up to the right
start at 9 A.M. miry bad going. some mules, mire down
Bre lifting them out with their packs on. cross this stream,
2 mules with packs get mired crossing. flour not hurt any.
Indians pilot Dimic. Pas wika ups, corn patches see one
corn stalk. 11 feet long, the top of which was broke up
Grape vines. Pass, cinder Rock. 50 yards square on the
left & nearly as large on the right. Stream well timbered
Cotton woods, & ash, Pass a bottom 1 ½ miles long ¼ Wide
would be a good farm, Red sandy soil, Grass green
belly weed, kinds of Sage & Greasewood. Rabbitt wood &c.
Plenty timber all along banks of creek. Indian Wika
ups, sun breaks thro, rain stops. Sandy soil good
going. Kanyons on this creek, Rocky & Steep, strike
round & avoid them, see creek again Plenty cotton
wood timber, Pass up stream, or creek, which is in places
rapid current 15 ft Wide, 1 foot deep, clear water, narrow
gouing over Rocks. & steep ascents & descents Indian trail
(they suppose we can go with our horses, where they go on foot)
Red bluffs, rise like a fortification 5 or 600 ft high.
2 miles long, we r going to day W & N West, Over
barren land, sandy, Pass Peeble rocks, good
building Rock, & thousands of huge, piles of Mts
hills, rugged declivities, Rocks, petrified wood
steep bluffs, caverns,
[Page 36 of 68]
1850
see ahead of us West, very high Mountains, covered
with snow. T at noon, 74, very warm, Indians
about 20 all men, run along side of us, Camp
on stream, on a Pi Ute garden patch, plenty
semlin vines & semlines on them, 3 P.M. 13 miles.
see their water furrows or rows between their corn
Pass Grass green, nice common Prairie Grass, blades
2 inches & 3 high, near bunches of Weeds, &c. T 40 o
rained about 9 P.M.
Thurs 3 Jany T 40 o- beautiful morning, Sun breaks thro
Warm. Indians left last night, don't make their appearance this morning
9 ½ A.M. Start. Pass semlins. mule gets mired, Cotton woods & bushes
plenty on bank of creek, Pass many engravings on Rocks, come up
the bottom of this creek, Indian trail, cross it going Westward, & strike
road, (Mts Westward high & covered with snow) Cotton wood timber continues plenty. come to Rocks
overhanging, large cave about 6 or 7 feet high 50 feet long, cross the
creek (Santa Clara) frequently, swift; stream Rocky bottom.
14 feet Wide 1 foot Wide. some of the crossings very steep.
strike to the left up Mt to avoid, kanyon. very steep,
Go along. Indian hollows out & comes & meets us, tolerable
good looking fellow, the creek here forks. take the left hand
fork, on the bottom before the creek forks, East side of the
river, a Pi Ute farm a long irrigation furrow, creek dam'd up
not the best land however, corn seems to be small, Hopkins
sees this, who walks afoot every day since we left the wagons 12 miles
large Prickly pears, he also sees 5 flocks of Quails, have seen crows
almost every day for 2 weeks indeed very frequently since we
left the City. some Willows & stumps in the way. see encamp=
ments - & Writing of Date Decr 20th T 29 o. Camp near forks. (15 miles) 3 P.M.
Frid 4th Jany T 28 o. Horses guarded on the Mt
some bunch grass, traveled good hard rate yesterday
about 5 ½ hours. tho we had many crossings, but mostly
good road (Parley called it 12 miles) start to day
at ¼ 9. AM. 2 Indians come into Camp, som Hawks.
Madison shot one on New Yearsday. with rifle
at the Indians request
[Page 37 of 68]
cotton wood timber, & poles on the Santa Clara which
now is but a small stream. Willows in the road &
good many stumps, but tolerable good Sandy road
about 8 miles then ascend & leave the S Clara. Steep
going up. thro cedars, reach small run of water where
the road, turns to the right, round a hill where some
wagons have gone over (the hill) excellent green grass
on the hill, 6 miles to this small run of water from
the Santa Clara, cold day. snow drifted. chilling
breeze, very cold, Animals weak, Ascend steep & go
5 miles on the run, strike up to the left in Valley
up to the Cedars & Camp, come about 19 miles--
build good bowers, or houses in cedars, snowy
cold, cloudy day, Mts manufacturing snow from
the clouds on their bosoms, Camp at ¾ P.M.
no water, Plenty old snow, Mt feed {TCO?}, snowing
Sat 5th Jany 1850. T 29 o. Snowing, start at 19 min before
10 a.m. strike to the road, Snow a foot deep, for 4 or
5 miles, Animals walk on the top of the snow, sometimes
sink in, come to (crossing of) creek & Snow bridge over it good water
Springs apparently to the right over crossing, Passed a Wagon
left in the snow. 2 miles back from this water, find
Purbelow & 4 or 5 wagons encamped near here in the
snow this water flows North, snowing large flakes
cedars on on the hills, Passed a good valley with lots
of dry feed Pass over ridges. upon ridges plenty
cedars, get into a large valley, some good feed
to the left, can't see the extent of this valley. Clouds
so dense & snowing, come to kanyon creek, good
little stream, Plenty cedars, at the right, beautiful
feed up the kanyon, Captn Fly, Owen & large
Coy with families encamped here. Pass on ¼ mile
past creek up to cedars & Camp at 3 ½ , clears up
ceases snowing, find Iron ore ¾ rich, heavy. 15 miles
Fly's Coy 64 men, 25 wagons, many families T 34 o
[Page 38 of 68]
Sab 6th Jany 1850 - beautiful morning T 31 o. exhibit beautiful
[word crossed out] iron ore, got in the Mt South of creek, Plenty, thousands of it
so says Flys Coy, Bre sell a little Flour at 20 cents per lb. several
mormons in the Coy they write us off a table of distances from Southern
rim of the Basin to Utah, measured by Church's roadometer. been
laying bye 2 weeks shoeing cattle. intended to start middle of week
10 A.M. start, look N W, to the eye can see no farther, very
extensive valley good deal larger than Salt Lake & Utah vallies
stream apparently heads in the Mts West or N. W, travel round
a curve, large Mound (out) in the valley which from the North
would hide from the eye the extent of the valley, sage &
Greasewood. Rabbitts any quantity of them, Indians say the
Deer go away N. W. to Winter. Walkers comes & runs them
in these valleys in Spring. make, Pass Willow Springs, without
striking up to the right to them, & Go on to creek, cross it,
& Camp at foot of hills, under a cedar, few yards past crossing,
nearly Dark, come 25 miles, thousands of cedars, easy of access
to the right & left, Good day. T noon about 40 no snow -
Judge Phelps & Bro. Green gets in 2 hours after dark, Judges
Mule slow, & Greens horse about given out T 29 o.
Matson gets Drunk. boys bring him in on Hollidays horse
Mond 7 Jany T 28 o. Boys find Iron ore (with Silver) I can see little
of it. 10 ½ Camp starts, Pass up the creek, which gets to be
a Dry creek. strike to the left. leave road, & pass thro' an
extensive beautiful bottom, rich in feed, hundreds of acres
on the bottom, sandy knolls dug up by Gophers, wire grass
dense & thick, excellent bottom. Dry hollows apparently
have been water furrows, Indians 20 or 30 come & look
at us, no families, sickness taken them away, said Mormons
over North East, they our friends never knew them till now
Gave us lots of presents, Dimic tells them we r also Mormons
they say Mormons coming to live among them & help them to raise
Corn, want we should come give us all the land round here
for a knife, accompany us to Camp (4 of them) see lots of
Rabbitts & a sage hen, very extensive bottom Dense good feed,
Camp at springs, on the hill, excellent feed on the hills
[Page 39 of 68]
near. beautiful feed on the bottoms below, Sage &
Greasewood, there r many Springs here, 2 or 3 good Springs
or runs of water, on the Mt. or hill West of us there
is thousands of cedar, easy of access, from this knoll to these
cedars accross the bottom may be nearly 10 miles, Plenty cedars
on the Mts 3 miles East & few scattering cedars on the hills
near us. mild day, go thro a swamply place where Muddy
looses itself as a consolidated stream we av cut off a good
many miles by not going up to the road. Great many
large cotton wood near the crossing of Muddy extend a
mile & half down the margin of the creek, Parley & Jones
after we camp, ask permission from Captn Brown, to go
to the wagons to night. they start, with Jones' two horses, stop about
3 P.M. Phelps & Green comes in 1 ½ hours after, mild
sunny day. we have passed thro no snow to day, Indians
have all black hair, no guns among the, tell Dimic they
could understand him. could not the other Mormons only
they knew they were coming to raise corn. they pack us
4 large loads of wood, we feed them liberally, good
set of Indians apparently, T 26 o. Camp prayers, & singing.
the boys express their desires to stay a while & explore in this region 19 (miles)
Tues 8th Jany 1850. T 28 o. cold on this knoll, cloudy,
Mts.round covered with cedars, start at 10 ¼ A.M. strike up
to South end of Little Salt Lake valley, Go up considerable
sage on every side. Mts to the right plenty of cedars
and easy of access, Pass on to Summit creek. 5 miles
see a wagon which has come from our Camp after
the wagon irons which were left by the emigrants
at this point, Good place for a settlement, on the
South of creek, Travel on, to near Big creek, the Settlers
here have called it iron ore creek, find they have
erected a Liberty pole about 40 feet high, hoisted
a (white) flag, a long red strip of cloth, on the flag
"Great Basin, meeting of Rough & Ready club this evening."
also a banner inscribed on it Free soil, Free
[Page 40 of 68]
speek, free labor & freedom of the Saints, canonading
commenced when we hove in sight, & shooting of small arms
Fine pleasant day. see tin pin alley made at the back of the
wagons, with balls & pins, also see boxing Gloves, reach
Camp which is on the South margin of creek, above a
mile up from the road, near the mouth of the Kanyon
excellent feed all round, 15 min past 2 all sat down
to an excellent Dinner prepared by Wadsworth & Drigs.
Plenty coffee, roast Beef, Pumpkin & Squash, with Pies,
minced, apple &c. little Sugar, and butter handed round
while eating Some sitting on stools, Boxes. others on
robes on the ground, Parley prophecied, "while the
sun & moon should endure, & so long as a
Settlement was here, they should perpetuate this
8th. of Jany as the day we celebrate, by this dinner
as the first anniversary of the Settlement of this place
to which a hearty response was given by three cheers, after dinner
was over, the cannon was fired, then Parley said he wished to
make a speech, Captn Brown called the attention of the Coy
when, he said he rejoiced in the words which headed the flag
on the Liberty pole. "Great Basin" to be sure there r climes
soil & country whose productions are valuable, he had read
of the sunny climes of fair Italy. he had trod Europes shores
heard of the fertile & productive countries in France, but
all these things were, where neither the soil, the elements nor
the air, the light of heaven was free, but here is "free soil
free speech. free labor free Saints" & free Pumpkin pies, to
be sure west is the Country of Gold, but her harbours r so
open, that she lies insecure of all her treasures, like the
richest man who told his friend of his riches, but says his
friend, a little iron could take it all from you, so I value
iron most, so it was, it was all taken from him, but we
have the iron, & minerals more useful & more safe besides our
defences r in these munitions of rocks, here we r safe with
all the riches we may possess, & we have the best defence
the most rocks, the best women, most beautiful children
& more of them than any ppl on the earth in proportion
to our number, therefore boys the Great Basin for me
[Page 41 of 68]
cannon fired amid three cheers. long & loud by the Fifty
WW Phelps, said he rejoiced at what was said, this
glorious country with its mineral wealth, whose history is
written upon its ruins, complimented the Company highly
on the unity & good feeling they had ever preserved, said
they were the best boys you could scare up among any
fifty, had endured more hardships, than any other Fifty
& preserved better feelings than he had ever before seen,
Parley our head has been vigilant & persevering neither
the snow, the rain, the bad road, the thunder nor the
lightning had prevented him from going a head &
finded passes & so it was with the whole Company
said he'd offer the following toast. " The city of the L S Lake may
her men never be wanting in union industry & virtuous wives,
To fill the Country & kingdom with eternal lives"
cannon fired, amid three cheers, D Fullmer said, he glad
to hear what been said, & as to this valley said nothing
was lacking but inhabitants to fill it up & as has been
observed we have the best women, & the most beautiful
children, & the most of them, we have the tools that
can populate this desirable country, with the help of God
cannon fired three cheers. Dan Jones, spoke of his feelings
his respect for his nation, groaning under the tyranny
and bondage of the old world, his heart felt keen in
their behalf. if had the ability would carry this goodly
land of liberty to them, spoke of being among the
nations, feelings produced thereby. his desire to see
the good of the nations gathered where they could enjoy
liberty, recalled to his mind the Saints, his labors & toils
with them, said he had always been among the foremost
in discharge of duties among the Saints-- knowing those
who were most diligent earned the greatest reward
[Page 42 of 68]
he had outdone himself, was sorry he was not able
to do more on this journey, that he might earn the great
reward. thanked all for their kindness and courtesy shewn
to him, & prayed God to bless us all. cannon fired, amid 3 cheers
Captn Brown called for by the Coy said he'd not much to
say but would give 3 cheers for the Presidency, the church, the
Company, & the Saints, which was responded to by 3 hearty
cheers, amid the cannons deafening roar, Parley then called
upon the Coy to sing when, was sung "O come come away from
Northern blasts retiring" & Come listen to my story while Winter
lingers bye" which was also responded to by 3 deafening
cheers. & the cannons roar, when the cannon has roared &
three cheers been given, small arms were fired by those
who felt disposed, which was many. Parley said enough
ammunition wasted for to day. Captn Brown, recapituled
the order. when firing ceased, a round or two of the
Boxing gloves, was tried, & tin pin alley was visited, some
go for the horses, & others tend to the Plates, Dishes,
&c. used at the feast, jolly time. "Am glad I had
time to write it, & that C West, got a candle & held it
for me while I did it" after dark prayers & singing & Dancing
mild pleasant night. some Wrestling.
Wed 9 Jany 1850 T Pleasant day. Bre. fixing up to start,
writing, mending washing wrestling &c. T noon 59 o Camp prayers singing &
Dancing, T 38 o. Wagons in our absence went on to 283 ½ miles
Thursday 10 Jany 1850, T 34 o Pleasant morning, start at 10 AM
come to Red earth creek 297 [9 seems to have been written over an 8] miles, when we started this morning
cached 5 tire & other wagon irons about 10 paces West of Liberty pole, burnt
ashes, coal, & pieces of wood & put on the top of the cache, we struck
up the creek ½ mile to crossing this morning, the lame ox of Parleys
which was left at Red earth creek, find, but it was unable to come
on, Pass Sage & Greasewood, & Camp on Grass plot, near Spring
120 yards from road, at the right, fuel scant, Sun setting
297 miles, T in shade at noon 55 o. T at night 38 o, Camp
prayers & singing. Parley, gets round fire, talks good things to
the Brethren. gave his ideas, his experience, & answered questions
[Page 43 of 68]
Friday 11 Jany 1850 T40 o Cloudy morning, Cattle hard
to get up this A.M. went ahead about 8 miles, many of the Bre. in
Camp keep Journals. 11 (h) - 20 (m) start. Pass on to Kanyon mouth, Begin to
ascend hill 313, steep & rocky. sideling descent to cedar valley ¾ miles, Pass
on to cedars by wayside & Camp among them, thought from the Way Bill
of distances given to Parley by Captn Fly's camp that we would find water
here, but Camp among Plenty snow, Good Mt feed (bunch grass) 100
yards to the right, an ox of Hopkins' being hunted after by many of
the Bre. ascertained he had taken the track backwards, John D Holliday
& Isaac Brown take their horses & track him back to the Liberty pole
bring him to Camp. they got in, a little after 11 P.M. Snowed all
night, nearly 4 in of new snow all over, Roadometer stands at 306 ¾
T 38 o Phelps gets R.C. to write his song completed today. "A life on the Desert (Plain)"
Sat 12 Jany T 22 o clear beautiful morning, start at Go on ½ mile then
ascend very steep long hill, go down sideling, & over (& thro) a narrow passage
cut thro cedars, short turns & sideling, a foot in places of drifted snow.
Snow 2 & 3 in deep, strike down & into Kanyon leading out of the Mts
a [word struck] Hundred yards past foot of hill, where a road comes in from the
right 309 miles, tolerable good road bench land, there, some cedars, & then
thers sage for (about) 6 miles till you strike Meadow valley bottom. then for ¾
mile, very wet & snowy, wagons go in clear to the hob in places, & cattle
mire down, rich bottom soil, snow just melted, & melting. come
to crossing of Meadow valley creek, (315 ¾) 6 yards wide, & 8 in deep at crossing
Willows plenty, see cotton woods 5 or 6 miles North at the mouth of Kanyon, Fir in Kan(yon)
"some of the Bre reckon as much water as Big Cotton wood" clear stream.
Rocky bottom, Bro G Nebeker finds, some coal stone on this bottom, beautiful day
(T in Phelps bosom,) Pass on ¼ mile pass a small run of water & ½ mile
further a small stream, very Deep steep banks. rich land in this bottom.
Pass over [letter struck] (5 miles) sage hill. & Camp by 4 ½ P.M. at 320 ¾ in little Clay
Basin T at night 20 o . good run of watter in narrow (sage) creek about
1 yard Wide, which we get by digging hole thro the ice, Pass
many dead cattle. Parley said he could look with the
glass up to Meadow creek kanyon, [Canyon] discovered much Pine
Fir, & good many cotton woods, he says its firstrate soil sing
ing in Camp. Judge Phelps'-- "Life on the Desert Plains"
revised & clean Copied by R.C. much Jawing in Camp
[Page 44 of 68]
Sab 13 Jany – 1850 - T 29 o Poor place to camp, this white
"Desert weed, which looks like feed at a distance Plentiful, but
Mt feed by driving some 2 miles off cold location, cut holes
in ice & Water cattle & horses with Pails. leave 10 (h) - 10 (m) A.M.
cross Deep ravine - Go up it 100 yds - 323 miles. Good level road
to day. commences snowing, comes, larger & faster. foremost teams
Camp about 1 ½ P.M. at forks of, Kanyon. [crossed out doodles] 329 (m)
other teams come up. in ¾ hour. Plenty feed on the side hills to day
& Camp amongst plenty feed & cedars-- many of which r dry
& make hot fires. some good bottom grass which the Cattle
sem to relish to day, tho the other day they rambled 10 miles
when turned out on bottom feed - but cattle very hungry
got little to eat last night. Parley this morning called Camp
together to see who would let one of their Yokes of cattle haul
the Canon, when Nathan Tanner volunteered to haul it to day
Snows hard to night - large Flakes, Road icy & slippy to day
Frosty night T 29 o-- Snowy. Camp singing.
Mond 14 Jany. T 24 o. Snow 1 foot deep, about Camp. Snowed
2 or 3 in deep last night. start at 11 A.M. take up the right hand
Fork of Kanyon travel up ½ mile & cross ravine, (then take up small Kanyon to your left) travel in 10 in
snow. hard to see the track, sometimes snow 1 foot deep, clear
blue sky, clouds fly swiftly thro the air, Piercing breeze Northerly wind,
after crossing ravine & going up small kanyon to the left. for
¼ mile, Pass on Mountain land thro deep snow, to
334 ½, the road hard to find, sometimes had to wait
till find the track we want after we got to 332 ½ down
a hill sideling then turn to left 50 yards & take short
turn to the right then ascend, go between two cedar
Groves, 100 Yds farther then Summit of Mountain
334 ½ . Pass down, (Cattle lick the snow dry) deep snow in the hollows over
a foot, clear blue sky, beautiful day, reach
Willow [crossed out word] stream. Plenty water, bad crossing 338, cedar
half mile to the right, Plentiful, sage Plenty near crossing
& Willows. Cattle march of to the bottom ½ mile where the
feed can be seen above the snow. cold night T 18 ‘
[Page 45 of 68]
(35 Horses & Mules in Camp - when we
Started, 38 - Vance's left. Mathews & Jennings
took 2 back) Tues 15 Jany 1850 - T 24 o S Wind,
Snow storm all night. & continues storming this morning.
10 A.M. nearly all Camp in bed, not a fire light, 12. Noon
continues, some few get up to cook, Captn Brown round
seeing if men enough up to go after the Cattle.
W Wadsworth & R.C. go & find the Cattle & horses (bring them up to water) some
of them 3 miles a head (beautiful Wheat Grass a head, along this bottom) ceases snowing. Sun breaks out
about (7 pm) night. Wind comes from the North, & snow or sleets
till bed time 9 PM. T 28 o .
Wed 16 Jany T 23 o. still snowing & storming Southerly
breeze, moderates a little but still continues snowing. Butcher
a Beef, get up cattle, stringing out to start at 10 ½ A.M.
Pass down thro a bottom of beautiful Wheat grass 4 & 5 in above
the snow, Come to Cedar creek right of road, Willows on banks. 2 [appears to be two numbers – smudged]
343 ¼ Roll down hollows & over rocky road to Rocky bluff
ascend 347. rough road snows nearly all day. 8 & 9
in deep, Cloudy, & disagreeable day, W Wind, Camp at 4
P.M. at Wayside 349 ¾, ceases snowing as we Camp
we did not pass within half or Quarter of a mile of creek,
we struck to our left round the hill, that is cedar creek,
T 27 o. Good bunch grass on the Mts round--
Thurs 17 Jany 1850 T 2 below 0, but by 8 & 9 Warm
the sun shining. Cattle got up by 9 A.M. pass small
dry hollow & ascend hill. 350 ¾ , Pass (nearly) ¼ mile on the
East foot of Rocky bluff 352, Sun srtong, 6 in snow
all over, cedars & sage abundant, Warm, Descend
hill 356 ¾ , Descend hill into Large valley 357 ¾
Desert weed bottom & Rocky bluff to the left about 2 miles on
Sage Ridge 362. Grove of cedar ¾ mile to left. [three numbers smudged out; rewritten after next line]
Leave road & make track to the right to Camp by cedars
364, cedar hollow 360. bunch grass. but mostly
covered with snow, Wind blowing in hollow Camped (by 5 P.M)
[Page 46 of 68]
From Descend hill into Large valley, to where we Camped
no feed, but plenty snow. T 14 o boisterous night
Frid 18th Jany 1850 T 30 o Cattle got up & starting before 9 A.M.
Strike over to the old track ¾ (mile) Passed over bunch grass considerable
above the snow which is 8 in deep. Descend hill into extensive
long bottom; Foot of hill 367 ¼ (m) road turns left along bottom. Mt
range on the right (East) snowy: Greasewood all round, small
bottom, no sage 70 ¾ Rush creek, 72 ¾, Plenty feed, otherwise poor
cold place to Camp. Plenty water, Camp by 2 ½ at Prairie Creek , (3 ft. Wide)
Plenty water, Willows & sage, good feed a head ¼ mile. Snow 6 in deep
377 miles - bad crossing. Cloudy, & Dark. Hunters report another
road nearer the Mts Snowy night. T 29.
Saturday 19th Jany T 18 o, Stormed & Snowed all night. 6 in new
snow. R.C. after the Cattle this morning, Snow on the level bottom (12 &) 14 in deep
Snowy. Cattle got up & start about now. Snowy & Cloudy. expect we
r good ways to the left of the track, some believe they see the
track or travelled road, 1 or 2 miles nearer the Mts East,
strike angling towards the Mts Snow about 2 feet 2 in on an
average, Two steers give out & r left behind, 1 mule left behind.
Get to Rock (subsequently called Chalk) creek by 6 ½ P.M. some of the hind teams later of
getting in, 14 ft Wide 16 in deep, Cotton wood on banks where we
strike it, small portion of the Sky to the West clears off T 18
we passed a Dry creek about 3 mile back, where there was good feed, but Snow covered
Sab 20th Jany T 13 beautiful clear morning. remained in
Camp all day. Snow bound. R.C. Writing under Parleys dict
=ation Report of Journey for Legislative Council
T at Cypher
Mond 21st T 16 Snowy, Northerly Wind, Cattle seen to & Counted
Captn Brown, & Bro: Potter, go a head 5 miles, report snow
deeper there than here, by 6 inches, 2 feet deep, small creek
a head but little fuel, R.C. Writing under Parleys dictation
continuation of report, afterwards Bre. all called together
Parley spoke on the expediency & necessity of part of the Camp
going a head, & reporting our situation, & if necessary
sending us teams back that they might see to their
[{age 47 pf 68]
families, & not stay here & all eat up the Provisions
considered it advisable to take this step after hearing
the Report of those who had went a few miles a head
and ascertained the snow was still deeper. Moved
by Wadsworth and seconded by that a part of the Camp
go home. Parley spoke as to when should start. W W Phelps
proposed we start day after to morrow. Many being in
favor of starting to morrow, it was carried. Parley gives in=
structions about taking 7 lbs. Bread & meat to make 14 lbs. &c.
Voted that D
How the Cooks fly about is a Caution. Bro: Mathews
goes back left Wadsworth's mule laying in the snow
stritched and dying.
T 25 o Snowy night, R.C. Making clean copy of report.
Tuesd 22nd Jany Has snowed nearly 5 inches
of new snow. Snowy morning T 25 o Parley sick
and vomiting, R.C. completed clean Copy of Report
had to write it laying on my belly. & a hundred
other positions, cold Snowy night open wagon, without
a stove, cover not fastened down with tacks stitched
it being 11 Pages, & handed it to Parley while the
Company just starting spoke to them & said God bless
you Brethren, you have my good feelings. & I leave Bro
Fullmer who I believe is able and competent to lead you if
you will hearken to his Council, don't be idle because you
have nothing to do, but inform yourselves & see to the cattle
and do as you are told, & I believe I'll soon see you all
in safety at home. We have chosen those who have families
to go home, but we will have the worst of it, God bless
you and about 10 ½ P.M. Coy starting - they were 24
in number, had, 26 horses & mules, Leaving 8 in the Camp
No of men left 26
about 3 P.M. commenced heavy snow storm, large Flakes of
snow falling T 26 o
[Page 48 of 68]
Wed 23 Jany 1850. T 2 o below Zero. hard frost, Meeting
of Brethren left here called by Prest. Fullmer, Voted that William
Matthews by Captn of this Coy that Sterling Driggs, Sidney Willis
and Gardner G Potter be Captn of Tens, all carried unanimously
Bro: Potter will not have Ten but he will be Captn the Sandpitch
Brethren, off steer of Bishop Lowrys dead. T at noon 30 o beautiful
Sunny day. Bre. called together at evg. Bro: Fulmer exhorting
us and reminding of what Parley said, not to Neglectful
of the Lord and he would not be of us-- Camp prayers
and singing. said if the Bre. wished to have dancing
nights he had no objections, if it could be got along with
in decency & order. & to their profit & benefit. Voted
that Robert Campbell take charge of the Dancing &
see that its done in order, & so far as he knows
figures & steps instruct the Brethren, Bre. go & see to the Cattle
round halo or circle round the Moon T 18 o
Thursd 24th T 30 o moderate morning. Bre. sent
off to herd & water the cattle, report band of Indians
down the creek, Cattle go farther down the creek where
the snow some less T 24 o sky look clear mixed
with clouds, sun sets clear, afterwards comes up
a South Wind, Camp prayers & singing. Ute Indian
school commenced. T 30 o R.C. Making out Emigrants Guide
Frid 25th T 28 o- Bre report some of the cattle doing
firstrate, a few only 3 or 4 miles from here look poorly, living
on browze, drove them down about 8 miles from here in extensive
bottom, abundance of grass above the snow which is only at that
place 8 in deep, one of the Utes came into Camp, been after
a deer, broke its leg. but got away from him, tenpenny Utes
Snow about 4 hours to day. 5 in new snow. gets to be
clear sky towards night. T 30 RC. continuing Guide
Sat 26th T 28 o mild S Wind, snow passing (away) the tops of the
Sage bush become bare, T midday 36 o Thawing fast. Indians
bring 6 or 7 Buckskins which the Bre. traded for, R.C. Copying
Hieroglyphics, Distances of the routE.. Making table of T 28 o
[Page 49 of 68]
Sab 27th Jany 1850. T 14 o Bre. in Willis ten finish their cellar
house to day with roof & chimney. cover it with Dirt. 7 or 8 Indians
come into Camp with Buckskins which the Bre. traded for the tenpenny
Utes. Warm day. T at noon 36 o in shade in the sun 56 o at night T 10 o
Mond 28th T 2 o below Zero, Bre. who have been with the cattle for three days
report them in firstrate feed, in a valley 10 miles West, where 3 creeks sink
& make rich dense feed. T 39 o. some read, write, sing Wrestle &c. T at night 16
Tuesd 29th T 24 o. R.C. Washes. noon T 36. snow disappears some
There was a large halo round the moon last night, Wolves howl T 28 o
Wed 30th T 29 o. Boys who come from the Cattle report they have considerable
to eat. Wolves at one of them. butcher a Beeve. noon T 50 o- in the sun 86 o [unknowncharacter] T 29 o
Thurs 31st 2 o. Drigg's ten finish their cellar kitchen 9 by 8 ft. cloudy T at
noon 32. in the sun 56 o . clear afternoon, Lyceum or school established - T
Fa Williams gets sack full of chalk Rock from banks of creek, good
Frid 1st February T 2 o Captn Matthews believes there could be good Settlement
for few families on the extensive bottom where our cattle feed, T 32 o. T at night 14 o
Sat 2nd Feb T 5 o Little wind this 2 days, but Sunny & clear T 31 o . T “ “ 10
Sab 3d. T 3 o clear cold day Sunny, T 31 o. clouds gather in the S.W. T “ “ 14
Mond 4th T 21 o . Pleasant morning. Gardner G Potter, Madison D Hambleton &
John Lowry, pack on their backs and start for home. Thawing T 41 o T 32 o
Tuesd 5th T 32 o beautiful morning. Griggs & Willis go ahead, few miles road
impassable. S Tanner kills a Deer, T 52 o Thawing fast - surely Israel remembers
us to their God, Lyceum held every evg. some debate. T 32 o R.C. making G [rest of word unreadable]
Wed 6th T 29 o at noon T 58 Thawing fast, Sun shines strong.
Potter & Hambleton & Lowry return, report snow very deep for few miles
but afterwards passable. meeting, Voted we start to morrow, men sent
after cattle, some fix food, the carriage, &c. &c. T 34 o
Thursd. 7th T 24 o , Cattle all got up by 11 A M T 50. fine day. 387 miles
start at 12 ½ P.M. travel to Thorn Plum creek 393 ¼ (m), about a foot snow in deepest
places. Camped after dark 6 ¼ miles, 8[word crossed out] (in) deep, 6 feet Wide, Sage plenty, feed on
hills to the right, T 26 o 8th Feby T 20 o. Drive cattle up on the hills for feed, Plenty
bunch grass T 50 o 8th T 34 o. noon 58 o T at night 34 beautiful day
9th T 32 o. Boys been a head 10 miles on snow shoes. Snow 2 & 3 ft deep
going over the divide, T 44 o Coy voted to go round the Mt West & explore
Sab 10th Fine day T 28 o T 43 o cloudy. Fitting up snow shoes all round
Mond. 11th T 20 o little snow during the night, cloudy - Hamilton
Potter & Lowry start. also Coy. to explore round the Mt (Move up with wagons ¾ mile to cedar 394 miles)
[Page 50 of 68]
1850
Thursd 14th Bre have returned from exploring round the West
foot of Mt report no snow scarcely 30 miles ahead on the
Sevier which turns Southward & forms its lakes West of our
encampment about 20 miles. see Indians, Pivants fishing
at the Lake have lots of large fish, Bre, go down to see
the Lake, & others to explore round, some going a head to
explore further on the road to morrow - Bright Sunny
days T ranging mornings about 25 o. noon 40 nights 30
Prest Fulmer thinks good Settlement could be made in this valley
Bre. nights preach & pray. & day times, read write, tend to cattle &c.
Sab 17 Feby T ranging as above, tho' last night it did not fall
below 40 o. Pleasant (Sunny) days, with little frost nights. little SE.
Wind all night & during (day) which takes the snow off fast.
Bre. go 13 miles a head on the road report snow very deep
others come in from exploring West. see many Lakes, & the
course of the Sevier, but did not get to see the Pi Vants -
excellent prayer meeting to night. Bre. united & in firstrate Spirits
Cattle however very poor, fa Williams caches some articles. couples
his wagon shorter, cuts off some of the box &c.
Sab 24th Feby. Fa Matthews & R.C. went a head over
the Mountain gone 4 days last week, Snow over 18 in
deep, hard snow crust, but see feed all along -
snowed on Thursday & Friday last 4 in each night
& T on Saturday morning stood as low as 14 o. good
meeting to night.
Mond 25th T 28 o South Wind. blowy all day. John Lowry
Sylvester Wilcox, & George Petty, come into Camp from Sandpitch
with letter from Isaac Morley informing us of Utah battle &c.
T noon 40 o . at night 32 o. mild. Wind blowing South.
Tuesd 26th Feby. T 40 o. Windy, from all quarters, Camp moves
together, fixes brush all round our wagons, forming a circle
with a gate outlet on the East side T 42. A good deal of
Foolishness in Camp, Bro Fulmers reproofs it. T 38 o Windy.
Wed 27th Feby T 34 o Windy, blows up a Snow storm
from the South pretty severe, all day, T noon 27 o. at night 26 o
Thurs 28th T 24 o. Frosty last night. Snowy. T 24, stormy day T 22 o
[Page 51 of 68
Frid 1st. [word "Feby." crossed out; written over in pencil with correct month} March 1850-- T 14 o Beautiful day, T 28 o. cattle put up
to near the Springs on excellent feed. T 22 o.
Sat 2d T 18 o Pleasant day, T 40 o considerabling dancing. Wooden shoemaking
cleaning guns. Tailoring. Ringmaking, reading, writing & singing. T 24 o
Sab 3d Feby T 27 o. 2 Utahs came into Camp. smoke the pipe of
peace with them, give them Tobacco, & pipe, to smoke it with the Pah-vants.
they left about noon - Snowing a little T 38 o at night 26 o
Wed 6th T ranging about 26 o mornings 44 o noon & 28 o night. cloudy
morning but pleasant days. sunny. start to day about 8 ½ A.M. first small
Spring. running cross the road. 395 ¾ Plenty feed, right of road, many springs. Spring
Stream 396 ½ - cedars & Plenty feed. went on to brow of hill right of road & Camped
about noon 399 miles - 5 miles to day. Beautiful day. first cattle & wagons go on the top
of the snow, Butterfly, passed camp, Snow in deepest places average 7 inches many places
no snow scarcely. T noon 48 o . S Wind, which is the only winds then can blow here
Thurs 7th Travelled early in morning on the snow crust, but after
going 3 mile had to strike (up) on the sides of the Mts as the cattle
went in Snow being about 2 foot deep. Camped on side hill
having come 4 miles 403, Plenty feed, Snow off on the South
side of hills, but deep drifts on the N Side, beautiful Sunny day
Frid 8th All go a head shovelling snow, then part come back get
up the Cattle & Start, it snowed 2 or 3 inches last night,
Shovel snow upwards of a mile, in one place ½ mile
Snow being 2 feet deep, wind round the Mt going up
very steep places, & down steep Mts to avoid the snow &
avail ourselves of the South sides of the Mountain heights
where the snow blown away by the winds-- Travelled
3 miles. & camped nearly opposite to Summit of
dividing Ridge on the Mts Plenty feed. melt snow
for oxen 406 miles. Camp prayers & singing, every night
when weather admits, beautiful Sunny day. clear sky
Sat 9th all go a head shovel snow cut brush & cedars &c.
then some return yoke up & start, climbing over rocky
Mts thro dense cedars, over hollows or ravines of the Mts .
where snow drifted 3 & 4 feet in places, down almost
perpendicular descents, beautiful day. come 1 ½ miles 407 ½
Camp about 250 yds on the North side of divide, on side
hill left of road. Bre making sleds for to run wagons on
Willis & Heath, go on to within 4 miles of Sevier. report it best
to take the left hand side of the valley on the benches, little
Snow there & plenty feed all along, hard Frost nights
Hewlett has T put past
Sab 10th Bre put sleds under the wheels of two wagons &
20 men in two trips take 2 wagons, which they called
[Page 52 of 68]
the Mountain maid & Mountain Clipper to port necessity
down this kanyon about 1 mile to mouth, the snow
from 8 inches to 3 & 4 feet deep, we keeping along the
Mountain side to our left near the foot of Mountain
then striking left over to Mountain foot on the West
of the valley called Port necessity where the snow is nearly
off. about 3 miles, the snow from the mouth of the Kanyon
to port necessity [avring?] 1 ½ feet deep, which is hard &
compact. beautiful day. freezing in shade all day
old men who stay in Camp melt snow for Cattle
Heavy smoke seen for 2 days on Sevier a head
Mond 11th cloudy morning, cold Wind blowing down Kanyon
try slding the wagons again to day. & have teams 4 & 5 yoke
of cattle to draw them, snow gets so soft find it impractical
South Wind, shovel road for better than ½ mile snow from
1 ½ to 4 feet deep, then double teams & take all the wagons
down to foot of the Kanyon, by Sundown, camp on
the West side of Mts near mouth of Kanyon, hard
days work on men & cattle, Bre come back from the
two wagons a-head & help us. mild evg. Plenty feed on
the S E sides of the Mts where snow is entirely blown off
Fa Taylors ox found dead this morning.
Tuesd 12th about day break, violent gale of Wind blowing
down Kanyon, & increases to a perfect tempest blowing
over Parleys large wagon which was left out of line
tearing the cover off Hamiltons wagon, blowing down the
tent, &c., nearly 4 inches of Snow fell from 7 to 11 O'C Storm
abating & renewing all day. just as it had a mind to.
many not out of bed till (nearly) night. some few Cooked breakfast
Parley's wagon fixed when wind abated so they could,
Wed 13th hard frost last night. Fa Williams ox "Brandy" found
dead, about 10 A.M. oxen got up, & nearly all yoked
to wagons. men go a head & shovel, quite a stiff breeze
blowing from the South, clouds sail swiftly thro the skies.
Sunny-- take the wagons with little shovelling from the
mouth of Kanyon 1 ½ miles over to Port Necessity, foot of
[Page 53 of 68]
Mts on the West, teams go back to mouth of hollow & bring
the balance of Wagons then all hitch up & go on 2 ½ miles
& Camp near cedars on beautiful bench feed. which extends
6 or 7 miles on. very Windy. from the South, nearly blowing
our covers off, melt snow & water the cattle, which many
have done all along, fine day Thawing, 410 miles. Indian camps
Thurs 14th 2 more Indians come into Camp, water cattle by melting
Snow, hitch up & go on 3 ¼ miles, pass over beautiful feed, An
Indian with several squaws & children, come, & camp with us
Lake Utes, have only heard of the war, don't know anything
about it, friendly. trade for a few skins with them. Clouds
heavy & black pass swiftly over our heads—Sunny - 413 ¼
we do not trade guns or ammunition with the Indians. Snowy. [word struck]
[half the line is crossed out] Windy. Indians Camp with us
Frid 15th South Wind, mild evening, Clouds pass swiftly oe'r us
sometimes discharge the snow & hail upon us. sometimes clear day
take up hollow & over ridge to the right of the road, fa: Williams
team slow turns out & baits every day. Go 4 ¼ miles encamp at N foot
of ridge beautiful Camping place. abundant good feed & dry fuel
melt snow & water all the oxen, Indians follow us up & Camp with
us - Firstrate meeting Bro Fulmer talks emphatically on the propriety of
keeping together, strong helping the weak, &c. Indians Camp with us
wish to sell one of their squaws for [Quetsimbunga?] Cow or ox 417 ½
Sat 16th mild night, Windy, strike road ½ mile from encampment
Good going, down hill, little Snow in the road, & some
drifts, started about 9 A.M. Wind turned Hail storm for
2 hours. Indians follow us & Camp with us nights - reach
Sevier 420 ½ - Willows on banks, & feed, mostly eat off
at crossing, no cedars near, some sage, & Greasewood
Sevier, muddy, with banks like Missouri river, 30 yards
Wide 2 feet deep, good ford, go on 1 ½ miles & encamp
on Sevier beautiful feed, good bottom of feed ½ mile
North. Indians Camp with us - beautiful afternoon,
estimate of provisions taken 700 lbs. in Camp, 422 miles
Write letter to Prest I Morley, see copy of do on file,
Willows for fuel - hard Frost, Snow all off on bottom.
Sab 17th exchanging loading taking from out of wagons with
weak teams, & fa: Henry leaves his weak ox with the Indians
gives it to them, Shoemaker's ox sent to Sandpitch by the Bre
going there - 5 of them who Start about 11 A.M, as we leave.
Sandpitch Bre give us a hearty farewell, & the Indians
come & shake hands with us all. move on thru a bottom clayey
Soil, excelent feed, 1 mile square, then strike over a succession of
small ridges. Barren, sage & Greasewood, see Sevier to our left &
no snow on road except drifts
considerable smoke coming from its bottom, one Indian boy
comes along. says it the Sandpitch's who r camped there
Camp on ridge, [beautiful day] Cedars by wayside; & plenty feed on the hills
Mond 18th stray ox gone. find his track & 2 Indian tracks
after him, beautiful day. Crossing of Slough creek 429 ¾ Plenty feed, 3 yards
Wide 16 in deep, muddy, miry crossing, cedars on Mt sides some ways
off, Pass up to 433 ¼ & Camp on Slough creek bottom nearly a
mile wide, excellent feed, we have come within ½ mile of Slough
since crossing. Indians who come into Camp this morning
[Page 54 of 68]
follow us & understanding we were made brought their chief to
smoke with our chief which they did. Indian solemn, (they) leave us about
4 P.M, 4 of them, the Young man, who followed us yesterday &
went to the Sandpitches one of them, beautiful day, little snow in
places on the road, it is an adhesive clayey soil, much soil
remaining on our wagon wheels. Tie up cattle at dark. 6 men on Guard
during the night, very cold wind, little Greasewood & Sage for fuel
Tuesd 19th cold North Wind, cloudy, cattle soon fill themselves, cattle
& horses improve, some, little lame however & poor. start about 8 P.M.
Go thro sage bottom. after leaving Slough bottom; find 2 & 3 & 4 inches
snow, at 437 ¼ strike up to the left towards hills & Camp at 439 ¼
Come 6 miles, Snow 5 & 6 inches deep, cedar & feed Plentyful, cold day
come thro clayey poor soil, sage Plentiful, N Wind, Guards Stationed
cWed 20th . Cold N Wind, cloudy, start about 11 A.M. & Roll on to
443 ¼ , keeping by the foot of the hills West side of valley, snow
drifted deep on the North side of hills, beautiful feed all along
on the hills & plenty cedars. the valley covered with sno - East
Thursd 21st beautiful morning. Sunny, clear sky, strike on
to bottom & cross Onappah kanyon creek at 446 ¼ . beautiful
feed, where the creek overflows, Pass on down along the creek
which runs North in a deep ravine. Sage & Greasewood bottom
many sloughs water brackish, Snow about 1 foot deep but
very soft, Camp about 4 P.M. at 452 ¼ near Watadge creek.
having come 9 miles, see smoke a head 4 or 5 miles off, cloudy
Frid 22nd beautiful morning, strike up bottom, (frosty night) amidst many
sloughs. strike East to road, at 453 ¾ , turn out & bate at noon
snow about 6 in deep, soft, Watadge creek 457. snow now 2 & 3
in deep; feed abundant all along. Watadge creek, flows down onto
bottom & joins Onappah kanyon creek, which is now a pretty
large creek, flowing thro the middle of this valley North.
see Indian fires this side the creek on the bottom, their Wika ups
on the other side of the creek, Camp on Warm Spring creek
460 ¼ , Good feed towards mountains. Cattle tied up to night
& Guard stationed. Pleasant mild evg but cloudy.
Sat 23d Boys go over and see Indians, ask for teacup, very hungry
Go on to Summit creek, thro some snow about 1 foot deep. Camp
between the branches snow all off, cloudy day. Good feed & fuel
468. ox in Sterling Driggs team lay down this end of Yohab
Sab (24th ) beautiful morning, start about 9 A.M. Snow off from road Soil
dry warm, little dusty, atmosphere warm & Sultry. meet
Ammomah, Give him provisions & letter to take to Isaac Morley
[Page 55 of 68]
telling him of our success, Pateatneat creek here bate our teams
2 hours 474 ¼ start on & go to Spanish fork & Camp, one
of Walker's Indians with us. Good road to day. Fa: Gould goes
back & brings Driggs ox to Pateatneat.
Mond 25th 12 Indians come into Camp, boys trade for skins
& Hopkins for a horse gives his lame ox, move on to Hobble
creek pretty high water, bate at Spring creek water
brackish, Good roads. dry & dusty, Camp N bank
of Provo, rainey afternoon 493 miles, Gould goes for ox
and could not find him, some Snow as we approach Fort
leave wagon of Parleys & one yoke of cattle
Tuesd 26th March. Pleasant morning-- Brethren from Fort come
out & tell us the news, start to go on to (Spanish Fork) American
Fork & camp, some muddy road, Hopkins team gives out
Cotton woods on banks, Green grass 2 & 3 inches high, acres of
it where Prairie burnt, Showery afternoon, but clouds role
round west, clear moonlight night – 504 ¼ little rain.
Wed 27th Pleasant morning. 7 boy's leave us for town this A.M.
Dry creek 4 yards Wide 10 in deep, said to be dry in
summer, find a mile with 7 & in snow in the road
noon 1 ½ hours, then move on over mountain some
of the cattle lay down, 3 oxen left. all the Balance
go over & Camp at Hot Springs 11 ½ miles, 415 ¾
Good feed, water hot, but does to cook with.
Camp prayers & Bro: Fulmer exhorts a little
Thurs 28th March. early start. Roll on to Cotton wood
settlement, to Captn Matthews. by 2 P.M. Sunny day. Green
Grass abundant, 426 ¾
[Page 56 of 68]
Ute
Indian Words
With their meaning in English
Ashinty - I want – Kish be still, S. Mon’ihish to make – Naimpan, foot
Abbat – Large – Kickamush, more Muggi’ give – Niat Wind
Anika Red: Kamush’ another Mike whats up, what you doing, where going
Annaniah, What you call it-Kiba Mountain Mitopige, moon, Nangits Girl
At Good - Kaveauts a colt Mava ober Nanpats mocacasin
Annebin , How many – Kutoshy done. Ma is it right Nawuk give
Ap Day at horn – Kunokshp, burnt Ma ba, off Nunkaka to hear
Adick Stop - Kishap’ Lasso, Maupa a whip S Nagi cough
Ashpy, loride – Kokweep' charcoal Mara this one or that. Nohome – crooked
Atpaga a trout – Katsuah you’re a fool Moobuk fall down Noi to pack
Baragy to wash Karanoop’ Saddle Moore girl Neaga, thats what I call it
Empaga to talk Kada , stay, sit down Morokive Squaw
M you Karawim, a seat Maba Short distance Obanunk Goose
Echeko’ tomorrow Kutana Powder Moorits Mule Oope bone
Eshump, you lie Kampunk Hen Manona whole Okige Rifle
Etesh long ago Kan a bits Poor Mc away Onshump enough
Eivut like this or that. Kuse Pants Mira father Oimbanga wagon
Ewun tired - Katsuge a Hat Nanasooz, a few Onup egg
Ebeba To drink Kap, Sing. Navush nothing Okump dust, dirt
Eba here Koak Sharp Newipe Snow OO arow
Epwa Sleep Kanup willow Newapi “ OOkwege old Bear
Ebita Wood Katoni Spit Narriint powerful Opit Timber
Hanipa, what Karagit Miss the mark Natauap trade Oakarum, thats it
Hukaba where Keow yesterday Narrawitch gamble Owup grass
Havan many Katuritch warm Ninne I, myself, Pegi Coming
Inch thisthat,it &c Ko kue to shoot Narrukwa fight Penunko soon
Ipits Boy Koue to steal Naguts Mt Sheep Piaput large
Idz Bow Moo hands Namp walk Patea heavy
In’to move out of the way Moouwa nose Namige Sister Paora rain
Kats no Mow ushuk other side Narrapige old Pauinch Beaver
Kootch Buffalo Mantso beard Nancobin ear Pawunk fish hawk
[Page 57 of 68]
Panquits fish Patishua eyelashes Tamso Sinew Toanow alike
Picka call, like Hello, come here Tambagup Bridle, Tapinunk on top
Pa water Pannawanup arrow point Tea B.J. Deer Tapunkety to kick
Pungo horse Painbus a son Tecup, eatables Tona strike, Tawa teeth
Pe ung heart Pariup to scratch Telitch little Taminum, a tree, they smoke
Pikwa to go Parraway to walk Tuege very Tamba under lip.
Pumka look Pucheut mouse Tupekua to be out of anything. Tamba up
Pishana to tell Pewakwa ragged Toy enough said Tampunougip flint
Pishawga hunt Quitsimbungo Cow Tomun year, Totina, Scalp, Tamope Milk
Puck i dead Queet Snipe Towun night. Tabebin throw, Tobepit Short
Pechy milk Quashoo Shirt Tabi Sun Tomkunta Strait
Punkaroo run Quinniken target Tinip Rock Tanga, kick, Tehig Duck
Pan’nokitch cup Quantia Eagle Tishump you lie all the time, Swaga White
Pakueet to blow Quando yonder Tege hungry Tamiaka give it to me
Pishup Paint Quanto other side Tutsira head, Tsi, catch it,
Tatoog, small Rabbit
Pina sweet Qweep smoke Terriby to throw away, Tabiska Sunset
Pabitit older Brother Quecan Bear Ticoba to eat. Tasha Day. Tamun Summer
Puean eye Queetadan to wound Tinsina hard, Umpic, dont really know
Pishaga, understand, Quidgeway to live Tata father Weetch, knife, We u Owl
Paton blood vein Segatchaby Close by Toats young, Wannowgip, gun caps
Pap blood Soonk pipe, Shady Dog To’ob Rattlesnake Wangets Antelope
Pe’muts love SateaS cold, Shinaub God Tanup man S Webita down, Wimp Pine
Pe conka sick, Shuki to whistle Tasipawa hair S Yacka hand it here
Pant long Spumi remember Tackibit Winter S Yop fat or tallow
Pua Skin Shoophy cold, Skabin to cut To’ome do, Yobaga, afraid, Yoge S Wolf
Po road Shega Duck, Segish spear Tack vest, Yumba Salt Valley, Yoap, Valley
Parea Elk Sua fool, Si catch it, Timuge file, Yeahive killed by frost
Peage Mother, Sekige Brother, Shego finger Timbuca Rifle Youtowap Door -
Punguts dont go so fast Shoop house Tapitshy hunt Oowa yes
Pena feather, Sukige young Brother Tapitch string
Peaba Lake, Tami me, Timbio Bullet Tigaboo friend
[Page 58 of 68]
[This and the following page contain sketches and drawings, possibly of hieroglyphics that he has mentioned seeing at various points in the journey.]
Little Salt Lake Valley
Great Basin
N. America
Jan 7. 1850.
[Page 59 of 68]
[This page is a continuation of sketches and drawings, possibly of hieroglyphics.]
[Page 60 of 68]
1849 - Table of Distances – Southern Expedition - Distance
in Miles
Novemr 23 Travelled from G S L City – to Cotton wood Settlement - 10 ½
“ 24 ____ “ __________________________ Willow Creek ____________ 9 ¾___
Two days travel - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 20 ¼
Sab “ 25 ____ “ ___________________ “ __ Dry creek _________________ 11
“ 26 ____ “ ___________________ “ __ Cedar Grove _______________ 12 ¼
“ 27 ____ “ ___________________ “ __ Hobble creek ______________ 10
“ 28 ____ “ ___________________ “ __ Pateatneat creek __________ 11 ¼
“ 29 ____ “ ___________________ “ __ Warm Spring creek _______ 14
“ 30 _____ “ ___________________ “ ___ Onappah Kanyon __________ 14
Decr “ 31 _____ “ __________________ “ ___ Cedars by wayside ________ 11 ¼
1st Weeks travel _________________________ 8 ¾
Sab “ 2 ______ “ _________________ _ to Timpa creek ___________ 19 ½
“ 3 ____ “ _________________ “ ___ City creek at Sandpitch ___ 7 ¼
“ 4 _______ Rested _____
“ 5 ____ “ _________________ “ ___ Sandpitch Creek ___________ 9
“ 6 ____ “ __________________ “ ___ Sevier River _______________ 12 ½
“ 7 ____ “ __________________ “ ______ “ _____ “ ________________ 3 ¼
“ 8 ____ “ __________________ “ _______ “ ______ “ ________________ 9 ½
2nd Weeks travel ________________________ 61
Sab “ 9 ____ “ _________________ to Sevier River ________________ 11 ¾
“ 10 ____ “ _________________ “ ______ “ ____ “ __________________ 10
“ 11 ____ “ _________________ “ ___ Dry Kanyon creek _________ 11 ¼
“ 12 ____ “ __________________ “ ___ Sevier River _______________ 7
“ 13 ____ “ __________________ “ ___ “ _____ “ _________________ 6 ¼
“ 14 ____ “ __________________ “ ___ Fork of Sevier to our right 12
“ 15 ____ “ __________________ “ _________ “ _________ “ _______ 10
3rd Weeks travel __________________________ 68 ¼
Sab “ 16 ___ “ Rested – while some hunted a Pass ,
“ 17 ___ “ ___________________ to North Foot of Mountain 4 ¼
“ 18 ___ “ ___________________ “ ___ Hollow _______________________ 3 ¾
19 ___ “ ___________________ “ ___ Prospect Kanyon ____________ 3
[Page 61 of 68]
Distance
1849 in
Decr Miles
“ 20 Traveled ______________ to ______ Kanyon ___________________ 5
“ 21 ___ “ ____________________ “ ______ neck of L S Lake valley ___ 7 ¾
“ 22 ___ “ ____________________ “ ______ Little Salt Lake ___ “ ________ 10
4th Weeks travel ___________________________ 33 ¾
[numbers to the side written lightly
First line unreadable]
Sab “ 23 Traveled ______________ to Red Creek _________________ 267 11
All the Company rest here 2 days & on 11
278
Wed “ 26 Pack Company travel to South creek ______________ 4 ½ 10 Thurs” 27 ___ “ _______ “ ___ “ ____ “ _____ Muddy _____________________ 282 ½ 16
Fr “ 28 ___ “ ______ “ ____” ____ “ Dry cedar hollow _________ 17
Sa “ 29 ___ “ ______ “ ____” _____ “ Southern Creek, Rio V. 13
5th Weeks travel __________________________ 67
Sab “ 30 ___ “ _____ Company travel to tributary of Rio Virgin 10
Mon “ 31 ___ “ _____________ “ ______ “ ___ “ branch of Rio Virgin ________ 12
1850 Pack Coy travel 86 miles, then turn homewards, in all 205 miles
Tues
Jany 1 ___ “ __________ “ _______ “ ____ “ ________ do _______ do __________ 10
“ 2 ____ “ __________ “ ________ “ ____ “ tributary , Santa Clara ______ 13
“ 3 _____ “ ___________ “ ________ “ ____ “ do ____ do ___ do _____ 15
“ 4 _____ “ ___________ “ ________ “ ____ “ _ rim of the Basin _____________ 19
“ 5 _____ “____________ “ ________ “ ____ “ small creek from Kanyon 15
6th Weeks Travel, _________________________ 94
Sab “ 6 _____ “ _____ Company travelled to Small creek __________________ 25
[smudged] 7 _ “ ____________ “ _________ “ __ _ ”_ Springs on brow of hill 19
“ 8 ____ “ ___________ “ _________ “ ____ “ Centre creek ________________ 11
Pack Coy r now with the wagons again, all rest on the 9th
Thurs” 10 Wagons & all the Company travel to Spring. ____________________ 14 ½
“ 11 ___ “ ________________ “ _________ “ ______ Cedars by way side _______ 9 ½
“ 12 ___ “ ________________ “ _________ “ ______ Sage Creek _________________ 14
[written lightly] 320 ¾
7th Weeks travel ___________________________93 ¼
Sab “ 13 Wagons & all the Company travel to forks of Kanyon __________ 8 ¼
“ 14 ____ “ ________________ “ _________ “ __ Willow stream ___________ 9
15 Rested ,
carry forward _________ 17 ¼
[Page 62 of 68]
1850 Table of Distances continued miles
Brought Forward __________ 17 ¼
Wed
Jany 16 Travelled to Wayside encampment _____ 11 ¾
“ 17 ____ “ ____________ “ ______________ Cedar hollow ________________ 16 ¼
“ 18 ____ “ ____________ “ ______________ Prairie creek ________________ 11
19 ____ “ _____________ “ ______________ Rock creek __________________ 10
8th Weeks travel _______________________ 66 ¼
[Page 63 of 68]
Copy of
Way Bill from Southern rim of Great Basin to Utah
by James Hecox--
miles Small creek at mouth of Kanyon 10
Small willow Spring from place to Camp 11
Warm and cold Springs 14
Creek with Cotton wood & Willow 7
Springs at right of road 12
Creek with cotton wood & Willows 5
Red earth creek 10 ft. Wide 6 ½
Red creek 4 ½ after leaving the summit of the next Mountain}
Beaver creek, take the left hand road down the ravine } 20
Sage creek 5 ¾
Deep ravine 2 ¼
Summit of Mountain 12 ½
Reed creek 4
Cedar creek 5 ½
Rush creek 33 ¼
Prarie creek 3 ¼
Rock creek 8 ¾
Thorn Plum creek 6 ¼
Springs to left of road 2 ¼
Spring Brook ¾
Small creek left of road 13 ¼
Sevier River 13
Fork of Sevier 10
Mud creek 18
Willow creek From Sevier to Utah 72 ¼ 8 Bottomless Springs “ Utah to G S L City 46 5 ¾
118 ¼
Timber creek 6 ¼
Spring branch [written lightly, nearly illegible] 3 Indian Camp creek To Utah 46 4 ¼ Spanish Fork 273 4 ¾ Hobble creek 319 6 ¼
Utah Fort 6
[Page 64 of 68]
The storm - God enthroned
in his palace of white
Beheld their approach
and exclaimed with affright
Our castle invaded!
then foaming with rage
He gathered the tempest
his foes to engage
It was [smudged word] & the watch fires
gleamed bright on the hill
The notes of the bugle
were merry & shrill
Glad songs broke the silence
Where solitude reign'd
For the Fifty of Israel
A summit had gained
The Winds roared like thunder,
the hurricane burst
The fires were all quenched
and the cattle dispersed
The storm demons raging
attacked the foe
And reared as by magic
new breatworks of snow
[Page 65 of 68]
is Winter! [yon?] Mountain
is mantled in snow
The winds oe'r its Glaziers
Unceasingly blow
The clouds on its bosom
betoken dispair
And the hurricane tempest
is revelling there.
Tis the home of the storm-cloud -
its rival-- the skies
And its proud towering summit
our passage defies.
Shall the sons of the Prophets
now shrink from the task
And a 50 of Israel
is conquered at last
No. Never!-- Tho legions
should dare to oppose
Tis the motto of Jacob
to conquer his foes
Then arise with the signal__
the sound of the horn
And we'll scale yon proud Mountain
Our breasts to the storm
A shout from the Fifty
exultingly rung
And the following morning
the toil was begun
At first mid the cedars
full slowly they rose
And the rocks rough & ragged
their (wagons) [passage could be sruck out] opposed
[Page 66 of 68]
Ebenezer Brown [the remainder of this line is unreadable. This page has been severely damaged and the three lines of writing are, for the most part, illegible.]
[Page 67 of 68]
[Appears to be a working page with days of the month and mileage noted but no context (i.e. no year or month). Also contains various mathematical figures.]
[Page 68 of 68]
Journal back cover in dark and light brown color