William I. Appleby autobiography and journal, 1848-1856.
View this source online
- Source Locations
- Church History Library, MS 15183, Folder 1
- Related Persons
- Martha Ann Appleby
- William Ivins Appleby
- Elisha Averett Sr.
- Ezra Taft Benson
- Gashum Caleb Case
- Isaac Clark
- William Clark
- Eliza Jane Clark
- Phineas Daily
- Hugh Davis
- William Draper
- Joseph Orson Egbert
- Joseph Teasdale Egbert
- Samuel S. Gully
- Margaret Hawk
- Dan Jones
- Ambrose Kellogg
- John Lawson
- Isaac Bartlett Nash
- William Wallace Patten
- Ruth Daggett Sayers
- George Albert Smith Sr.
- B. F. Stoddard
- Franklin Stoddart
- Henry Vanderhoof
July 4. Left Kanesville to day with our teams along with several others, travelled about six miles and encamped with Elder [Ezra T.] Benson's Company on the Pra[i]ries. Tarried until the sabbath following, when we moved about four miles further, towards the Missouri river, to embrace our turn in being ferried over the same, which we accomplished on Wednesday the Eleventh, and encamped again in the Indian Territory, Omaha Lands, near Winter Quarters, awaiting the arrival of our brethren yet behind in crossing the River. Several companies of Fifty's having already gone ahead[.] My health which was delicate before I left Kanesville, became more so after I encamped on the Pra[i]ries, as I suffered extremely for good water, and the weather excessive hot however in a few days I got better. My disease was a bilious diahrea, and the effects of Cholera.
13. Wrote a letter to William Prier of Recklesstown, New Jersey, also Br. Jacob Gibson of Philadelphia. Sister Elizabeth Hand directed to the care of Elder O. Hyde at Kanesville, and an article for the Kanesville Guardian, in relation to Capt. Burk of the Steamer Lightfoot.
14. Left our Camp near Winter Quarter[s]; went about six miles, and encamped for the night[.] mosquitoes bad indeed.
15. (Sabbath) Pursued our Journey about 18 miles, arrived at the Elk Horn River, where we found Capt. Dan Jones, encamped with the Welch Company of Saints, and Capt Silas Richard[s] with his company of fifty encamped about three miles west of the Elk Horn, awaiting our arrival.
18. Having got all our waggons and cattle safely over the River, the Camp moved forward about three miles, and encamped for the night where pasture was good and plenty. About twelve o'clock at night a general rush, or "stampede" was made by the Cattle, taking some fright. They passed the guards, and ran towards the River. Every man in camp was summoned to turn out, and with arms in their hands, assist in bringing them back. In about an hour or two, the Horesman [horsemen] had headed them, and we got them returned back to Camp, oxen, cows, etc. and placed an additional guard around them, We had the good fortune not to lose any of them. I must not omit to state I received a letter from Elder Woodruff dated Cambridge at Mass. June 15th 1849 (and forwarded on from Kanesville by Elder O. Hyde) stating it had been reported there for a fact, that I had died of Cholera. And a copy of the following beautiful lines, which appeared in a Boston Paper composed by a gentleman of Boston, (who had often heard me preach, but not a member of the Church) signing his name "Aramis," on my death. Thanks be to Heavens King I am yet alive, although Br. Woodruff stated in his letter, he did not know w[h]ether it would find me at the Bluffs, or the Salt Lake, or would have to follow me to the world of spirits.
"For the endless Joy of the parted souls
That floats through the shadowy space
In an ether of peace to the land of rest.
To look on our dear Lord's face.
Shall we chant a dirge or the deep bell toll.
Or the mournful anthem raise.
No. for his rest is glorious.
And his path of pain is trod.
No! though the warm and generous heart
So still beneath the sod.
It beat in his life of nobleness.
For freedom and for Gods.
Away with grief, let us never mourn.
May his rest be mine, I crave.
True hearted warrior of the cross.
With a mission to conquer and save.
Heroic soldier in the Haste
Of our Good Lord Christ the have.
True in his life to the Holy faith.
Which oppression can never apal
The faith of Justice and love to man
And help to their suffering call.
And speaking aloud the truth of God.
Having never to speak it all.
Now in the quiet and holy tomb.
Sweetly slumbers the ever blest.
And the memories of his earnest life.
Are shrined in many a breast.
Gently as violets adore—
From his saintly tomb of rest."
19. Camp moved forward about eleven miles, and encamped at the Liberty Pole on the margin of the Platte River. Had meeting in the evening to reorganize the Camp of Capt. Dan Jones, heretofore referred to. Br G[eorge].A[lbert]. Smith of the 12, President Isaac Clarke with his counsellors, viz. myself, & Br William Draper, with two "Tens" came over from the main Camp and Joined Capt. [Dan] Jones of the Welch Camp so as to divide the Camps more equally in numbers. I was also appointed General Clerk of both E[zra]. T[aft]. Bensons Camp, including the Norwegian company, and G.A. Smiths Camp, including the Welch Company, and Journalist of the same.
20. Moved forward 13 miles, and encamped, without any accident, all enjoying tolerable health[.] Thanks be to Heavens King.
21. Travelled ten miles, and encamped at a place called "Shell Creek,["] having travelled altogether 62 1/4 miles since we left Winter Quarters, ascording to Claytons "Guide," which distance was measured by the Pioneers, with a Roadometer in the year 1847.
22. (Sabbath) Rained last evening and a part of to day. had meeting in the afternoon. Camp did not move, but lay still over sabbath. Had one birth in Camp, and two marriages since we left the Elk Horn River.
23. Camp moved early. travelled about twelve miles, through a wet muddy, miry, and sleurey road, and we camped on the Banks of the Platte. The Plains here are hundreds of miles in length, and from three to twelve wide, from the Platte River, south, to the Bluffs North, covered with rich luxuriant pasture, and beautiful flowers of different odors, colors, and variegated hues. The lands thus far traveled from the Missouri River belong to the Omaha and Pawnee-Tribes of Indians, but we have not seen any since we left Winter Quarters. We found an Indian skull along the road a few days ago.
24. Travelled Eleven miles through muddy roads the weather being exceeding warm, which fatigued and wearied our cattle very much. Stopped to rest often, and encamped for the night at the Loup Fork of the Platte River, opposite to where the Pawnee village of several hundred Huts was located in the spring of 1847. When the Pioneer Camp went out We found a good camping place, plenty of wood and water. Near by where we encamped was a grave enclosed with cottonwood logs and bark, supposed to be the grave of some Gold Digger. It is quite interesting in the evening when the Camp stops to witness the activity of all that are able, from watering Cattle, some driving others to herd, others carrying wood and water, others making fires, and carrying wood for evening and morning, while others are preparing their meals. After supper the driving up of the herds, chaining and tieine [tying] up cattle. The Captain of the Guard blows his horn, and summons the guards to duty. The Camp after Prayers retires to rest with their Campfires burning, and then lamps lighted up in their waggons with the lowing of the oxen, the bleating of the sheep, and neighing of the Horses in the Karals [corrals], the howling of the wolves on the distant hills, and Pra[i]ries, with the half hourly cry of the guards from No. 1 up as they cry the hour of the night with "all is right" all combined lends enchantment to the scene, and a feeling of praise, veneration, and thanksgiving to the God of the Saints.
25. Pursued our Journey about 9 o'clock A.M. the weather exceeding hot, roads in some places quite bad, travelled slow, and rested the oxen often. encamped about dusk, on the open Pra[i]rie without wood or water, only what we carried along with us, having travelled about 13 miles. In the evening we experienced a heavy shower of rain thunder and lightning.
26. Travelled Eleven miles and encamped on the west side of Plumb Creek, near the old Pawnee Mission, some buildings, fences &c, are yet to be seen. An excellent Camping place, plenty of wood and water nearby, grass plenty and tender.
27. Eleven miles completed this days Journey, and encamped on the Banks of the South Fork of the Platte, in the Pawnee Country, having forded Cedar Creek, water quite high running into the waggon beds of some of the Camp. One waggon ran into and broken, some repaired again. Passed a Pawnee village which was nearly destroyed by the Sioux Indians in the year 1846. There are some fourteen Huts, some of considerable size yet standing but uninhabited. The Pawnee being forced to leave and cross the River[.] There are a great many holes dug in the earth about the village, some six or eight feet deep, nearly in the shape of a Jug. Large enough some of them to contain an hundred bushels of Corn. The use to which they were formerly applied.
28. Travelled six miles, and crossed the South Fork of the Platte at a New Fork discovered by Capt Richards' Company a day or two previous opposite to an old Pawnee village. Capt. Richards company having passed over the day before we arrived, and was encamped on the opposite side of the River. Both Elder Bensons Camp & G.A Smiths, were all safely got over together with the loose cattle and sheep the same day. In the evening we encamped near to Capt Richards Camp, where they had a "trip on the light fantastic toe."
29. (Sabbath) Sent out some men to spy out the road toward the Platte, it being a new one for the Camps to travel, having crossed heretofore at Fords further up the River. Had meeting at eleven A.M. Elders G.A. Smith & E.T. Benson addressed the Congregation, and gave much good instruction. In the afternoon by request I addressed the different Camps on the Gathering of the Jews, and the signs of the times. The greater portion of the women were engaged in washing, baking, and cooking.
30. All the Camps moved early this morning. Capt. [Silas] Richards Company ahead. breaking a new Road, we travelled about ten miles between the Loup Fork and the Platte River[.] found the way quite good except in one place, where one or two waggons were mired down and broken. However they were soon repaired, and all moved on, and encamped for the night on the open Pra[i]irie. Good pasture for the Cattle and plenty of water, but no wood except what the Camps carried along with them.
It is quite gladdening to the eyes to view the beautiful flowers on these vast Pa[i]ries, with which Natures God has decked this lower world
with, to beautify, gladden and cheer the heart of man. Although these vast Plains are seldom trodden by the foot of the White man, and his habitations are not seen upon them, and but few Indians that roam over them, yet here in solitary silence, blooms the sweet rose, and other beautiful flowers, of variegated hues and colours, casting their sweet fragrance and odors to the gentle breeze that are wafted over them where the lark, the linnet, and the blackbird, in merry gambols and gyrations inhale the odiferous sweets, where fragrances are mingled with the pure air of the Plains. Sure
"Many a flower is born to blush unseen
And waste its fragrance in the desert air."
31. Camp travelled about twenty one miles, over sandy and miry roads, dust flying some part of the way, so as nearly to blind ones eyes. Several waggons were mired. One axeltree and guide broken. However the Camps all arrived in the evening at and near Pra[i]rie Creek, where they encamped. plenty of water and feed for cattle, but no wood. A melee occurred in the morning in Capt Richards Camp. A Driver or Teamster of one Mr. [Edward] Sayres [Sayers] got into dispute with Mrs. S. (Mr. S. being absent) in regard to driving the Team. He called her by some base, vile epithets, when she retaliated by using a whip on him. He then struck her and blacked one of her eyes. He was left to the care of the officers of the Camp to deal with him for the same. A dog was bitten yesterday by a rattlesnake, which came near killing him. The only snake of the kind seen I believe, or the only one I have heard since we left Winter Quarters: several hunters went out from the Camps to day-saw several antelopes. Killed one.
Aug. 1. Twelve miles through some very miring sluices to Wood River completed our Journey for to day. found plenty of wood and water. In the morning a Company of Gold Diggers for California came up with us consisting of 14 men. 17 horses. 7 carts and one waggon. They brought us letters from Elder O Hyde, at Kanesville Iowa.
At Pra[i]rie Creek we discovered two graves, and the information we derived from the inscription on the Head boards, and notes on paper enclosed in cloth near the graves, was that one Bro. Kellogg, died of Cholera 23rd day of last June, on his way to the Salt Lake Valley, in Capt. Samuel Gully's Company. The other was [Joseph Orson Egbert] the son of Bro Joseph [Teasdale] Egbert, died July 27th 1849 in Capt. Al[l]reds Company. Elder Hyde['s] letters informed us of the increase of the Cholera in the United States, wars in Europe, Santa Anna in Mexico again, etc.
2. Moved on fourteen miles, making our whole Journeyed thus far travelled 170 miles from Winter Quarters. I have been quite unwell to day. Roads tolerably good. in the evening experienced quite a heavy shower of wind[,] rain, thunder, and lightning. Where we encamped was a Gold Diggers Grave, that died here about one month ago. He was from Wisconsin, and died of the Cholera, as we were informed by the writing on the Head Board. A note was found, at the grave from Capt. Isaac Allen. written a few days before. He being ahead of us with a Company of Saints, that the Company had found fifty one head of oxen & steers, on the Plains besides four Cows, stating they wished our Camp had some of them to assist us along. We accordingly sent out Capt Patten with some others to Capt. Allens Camp to get a few yokes, as we needed them being heavily laden with Church property &c.
3. Twelve miles over bad miry Roads, and encamped on a rising piece of ground, on the Pra[i]rie near to a place called "Dog Town" from the number of Pra[i]rie Dogs that inhaet [inhabit] it. Completed our day's travel. These Dogs are about the size of an Eastern Wood chuck and live in holes under the ground, and I am informed that a Rattle Snake is their Companion. At the same place was two graves neatly sodded over, and Head Boards with inscriptions on them, from which we learned with regret that one was Capt. Samuel Gully, Capt. of 100. in Bro. O. Spencers Company of Saints Salt Lake bound. Died July 5th 1849 of Cholera aged 39 years. The other Henry Vanderhoof. a Gold Digger bound for California Died July 4th 1849. of cholera also. He was a man of talents and educated for a Clergyman, so Br. G.A. Smith informed me as he was acquainted with him.
4. Travelled twelve miles through muddy roads, rendered so by a very heavy shower of wind, hail rain, thunder and lightning. In the morning, some of the Hail stones, supposed to be one and a half inches in diameter. We encamped near the River, a few miles above Fort Child, being 208 miles from Winter Quarters. We was informed here that Capt. Allens Company found fifty head more of Cattle before his company reached opposite the Fort.
5. (Sabbath) Camp did not move to day. was washing, baking repairing ox chains &c. we had meeting in the afternoon. G.A. Smith, and E.T. Benson spoke.
6. Journeyed on about thirteen miles, Roads quite good, and encamped at Elm Creek water plenty but not very good being stagnant, plenty of wood, we passed to day thousands of Pra[i]rie Dogs habitations, saw scores of them, several were shot by the Company. They are very good eating, living on grass. they resemble the Eastern Wood chuck but not so large. My health again to day is rather delicate, feel weak and debilitated. But I trust in my God I shall be healed. and live to good, and praise his holy name. Amen.
7. It is remarkable that not one Indian has been seen since we left the Missouri River (all away hunting we suppose) until last evening two were discovered near the Karal [corral] lurking about in the grass, endeavoring to steal our horses no doubt. The guard Capt. [Elisha] Averett discovered them, and on the Indians hearing the Click of his gun, as he drew back the lock, They fled down the Banks of the Creek. We moved about twelve miles and encamped without wood, only what we carried with us, day hot. roads dusty—Capt. [William] Patten Returned to Camp to day, from Capt. Allen's without any Cattle, of those found heretofore refered to. The owners a Company of Gold Diggers, under Capt. Owens, had been and claimed them before Capt Patten arrived. They Stampeded from the Gold Diggers and travelled in 36 Hours. one hundred and thirty miles, wher[e] Capt Allen found and met them[.] We also learned with regret that Capt Gullys (Company), whose death we have heretofore referred to, lost before arriving at the head of Grand Island six men, four died of Cholera one drowned in the Loup Fork, and another shot by the Indians, at the same place and two more since severely injured by the Cattle in a stampede.
8. Journeyed fifteen miles, and encamped on the banks of the Platte. no wood. but plenty of water and mosquettoes, saw a fine Herd of Buffalo on the opposite side of the River[.] Capt. Patten with three or four others went out hunting for the Camp. Shot a fine Buffalo Bull, and an Antelope. Drove a fine Poney that he found on the Plains into Camp. Caught him, and returned back for the Buffalo, found the Hunters had all left. The Buffalo was nicely cut up and covered over with a blanket. In returning he got lost fifteen miles from Camp, and tarried out all night without arms. The others tarried out also. The following morning sent out a waggon for the Buffalo, but found it not. The wolves had been and claimed it, but we had the pleasure of dining on an antelope.
9. Travelled 12 miles roads good but dusty, weather hot, encamped without wood, only Buffalo Chips. Dug several wells, got a supply of quite good pure water. Passed the grave of a Gold Digger, and from the writing found at his grave, we learned his name was Edward Haggard from Askaloosa, Iowa, died in June last of Diahreaa contracted at the Loup Fork.
10. Twelve miles completed our Journey for this day. some part sandy Roads. a heavy shower coming on, we encamped early near Low Sandy Bluffs. From about five o'clock P.M. until midnight there was one constant and incessant torrent almost. The lightning flashed in vivid glare, the thunder rolled in rumbling and terrific peals. The winds howled through our Camp of Canvas, stretched to the enraged elements. Many were the mother and infant that received the cold drops through their frail covering, and reposed in their saturated Beds, without murmuring, as it was Heavens will. The Cattle bent to the storm, as they stood upon their feet, and some times gently tried a chain or Rope by which they were made fast. The guards wet and dripping, paced the Camp in their several rounds, crying the hour exposed to the furious and pitiless storms, However after about seven hours the elements having spent their fury, a calm subsided, and in the morning, the camps arose to behold, a beautiful clear sky, a shining sun. Cattle all safe, and cheerful and smiling countenances in the Camp, and plenty of water around the same.
11. Camps moved only about three miles, the roads very wet, and the weather exceeding hot[.] encamped on the Banks of Skunk Creek, where wood and water was plenty[.] examined our articles in our waggons, dried those that were wet &c. In the evening the boys and girls had a Dance, Several men from Elder [Ezra Taft] Benson's Camp went out hunting and shot four or five Antelope. I stood guard at night.
12. (Sabbath) Camp laid by, Showers in the morning. weather quite cool. I write a letter to Br. O. Pratt in England. Had meeting in the afternoon. by request I addressed the congregation. The organizations of our Camps, viz one denominated G.A. Smith, including the Welch Company, with Capt Dan Jones. The other E.T Bensons, including the Norwegian Company, both Camps travelling and encamping near together but separate on account of pasture, convenience, and decreasing the number in one Camp, are as following. viz
Travelling in George A. Smiths Camp—
President of both Camps
Captain of 100
Captain of 50
Captain of the Guard
Capt. Dan Jones
Captains of Tens
Gashum C. Case
Clerk of the Welch Company
In E.T. Benson's Camp
Capt. of Fifty
Capt of Guard
Captain's of Tens
Azael T. Talcott
General Clerk of both Camps & Journalist
The Statistics of the Camps are as follows, according to the Report of Captains of Tens
70 L[oose]. Cattle
1 Sund [sic]
13. Travelled only about five miles and encamped near Skunk Creek crossing roads very muddy[.] did not move until late, as Elder Benson was quite indisposed with Cholic and had been so from Saturday evening. However he was anointed, and administered to in the name of the Lord, and before G.A. Smiths Camp left in the morning he was better. Elder Bensons Camp tarrying behind. as he was not in a situation to move
14—Camp did not move forward this day, was busy in mending Chains &c waiting for Elder Bensons Camp to come up (as he was better) which it did in the afternoon, and encamped near by us Capt. Richards Company. which was several miles ahead. killed three Buffalo on Saturday last, and Elder Bensons Co. killed one yesterday. I shot five splendid Ducks, since encamped here. Had an inspection of arms and men in both Camps this afternoon, numbering in all one hundred and eight able and efficient men well armed and equiped in case of emergency.
15—Eleven miles through mud sand and heat. completed the days Journey, encamped at night at Carrion Creek. no wood near[.] Passed during the day two springs of cold clear pure water, the best I have tasted since I left Pennsylvania. Our cattles Necks and Shoulders are getting very sore, owing to the bad State of the Roads and hot weather.
16.—Made only five miles through muddy roads, weather exceeding hot, and encamped where we could get plenty of wood, and lay in a supply for future purposes, as there was scarcely any more for some two hundred miles, Buffalo chips excepted. Some hunters in E.T. Bensons Camp killed two Buffalo. G.A. Smiths Camp killed one.
17.—Eleven miles completed our days Journey, encamped on the North side of the North Fork of the Platte, weather very hot. roads muddy, sometimes heavy sand. In the evening we experienced a heavy shower of thunder, lightning, rain, and very large Hail. Elder Bensons Camp some two miles ahead.
18.—Travelled thirteen miles. over heavy. sandy roads, and Bluffs[.] encamped for the night on the Prairie, water scarce for drinking or cooking purposes. Buffalo Chips for fuel.
19.—(Sabbath) Pursued our Journey early, travelled about six miles over heavy and sandy roads. encamped near a creek of beautiful clear running water. Elder Bensons Camp did not move. (he being quite unwell.) when G.A. Smith did. However it Came up in the afternoon. Had meeting in our Camp of exhalation [exaltation] singing and prayers. Killed two Buffalo and two Antelopes since Saturday morning.
20.—Travelled thirteen miles. over heavy and sandy Roads, weather very hot. Cattle very much fatigued, plenty of good water and grass. Encamped at Spring Creek 345 miles from Winter Quarters.
21.—Camps lay still to day. as Elder A. M. [Almon W.] Babbitt came into Camp in the morning twenty six days from the Great Salt Lake City. with the U.N.S. Mail with letters and despatches &c two or three Brethren were with him; News Cheering. I wrote several letters Heard the Despatches read &c.
22.—Elder Babbitt pursued his Journey for Kanesville this morning. Br Robert Campbell who accompanied him, tarried with us, to carry our Despatches to the Valley. We travelled fourteen miles, weather continuing very hot. Cattle much fatigued, one Cow died, found a tolerable good Camping place.
23.—A little over Eleven miles travel completed our day's Journey. weather very hot. roads heavy over the Sandy Bluffs. Cattle much fatigued, some very near giving out. A waggon in the Welch Company was upset in a mire hole in crossing a creek. Another came very near being ran into the River. by the Cattle attached to it. A Boy in G.A.S. [Smith] family got hurt by a yoke of cattle. A Welch woman had her foot nearly mashed. Another was bitten by a Dog. belonging to Br Simmons. Accidents enough for one day.
24. Ten and a half miles. travelled today. roads quite good[,] pasture but middling. weather continues hot, encamped opposite to Ash Hollow on the Banks of the North Fork of the Platte. I was busy in preparing Despatches for the City in the Valley of the G.S. Lake, to send by Br Campbell. Near by where we encamped were the bones of Indians. sculls [skulls], Buffalo robes &c. supposed to have died, of Cholera last spring, and the flesh been eaten off by the wolves.
25. Pursued on our Journey twelve miles, weather yet hot. in the evening had a shower cleared away quite cool, passed the grave of Sister Margaret Hawkes, who was killed in Capt. Taylors Company a few days before in a stampede of the Cattle, when attached to the waggons. being frightened. by a Horse. Several other persons were severely injured and several waggons broken.
26. (Sabbath) Journeyed eight miles. roads pretty good, and weather pleasant. A large company of Sioux Indians, with their mules, Ponies and horses. together with their Tents. were encamped on the South side of the Platte. We karaled [corralled] nearly opposite to them. Several of them both men and women mounted their ponies. together with their Chief, and came over to our Camps. They hoisted the white flag. and smoked the pipe of peace, and appeared friendly. The Camps traded with them. Beans. meat. bread. biscuits &c in exchange for Buffalo Robes, and Moccasins. They were the finest[,] noblest, best looking, and neatly dressed Indians I ever saw. Brs. Campbell and Patten left Camp this morning with our express for the Valley.
27. Completed thirteen miles more travel. over Sandy Bluffs, dust plenty, weather quite hot and Cattle much fatigued, some few their feet getting sore, as also their necks and shoulders, Encamped near Ancient Bluff Ruins, 419 miles from Winter Quarters. Our Camps continue to enjoy quite good health.
28. Journeyed thirteen miles, over sandy and dusty roads again. Weather yet hot until towards evening. when it became quite cool, pasture quite inferior to what we have had heretofore. A gun was accidentally discharged this morning in a waggon belonging to the Welch Company. However it done but little damage, the shot grazed the leg of a Welch Brother, and several shot passed through the hat of another one Just clearing his head, &c.
29. Weather very cold for the season. Travelled fifteen miles. Cattle withstood the day's Journey very well. Encamped near "Saleratus Lake" a few miles east of Chimney Rock. Here I carried water to drink and use. over two miles going and coming
30 Pursued our Journey seventeen miles to day. roads dusty, weather quite hot again--encamped about dark near the River not far from Scotts Bluffs[.] Good pasture. omitted tieing up our Cattle. but let them feed all night. Killed a Buffalo in the afternoon. I shot three ducks last evening, another one today. Saleratus so plenty here you can discover it lying on the surface of the earth in prefusion.
31. Fourteen miles were computed for our travels to day, as we had no direct way of determining the distance, and our places of encampment being between the places and distances noted in "Clayton's Guide." Ro[a]ds good, but dusty. It is quite a curiosity here to view the works of nature along the Bluffs on the margin of the River. representing. Castles, Towers, Forts, Chimneys, Cupolas, &c.
Septe. 1st Travelled about thirteen miles. dusty and sandy. One ox sick. but recovered. one sheep ran over and hurt very much and had to be slaughtered. A melee occured between two Brs. One a Welchman. the other an Englishman concerning some Cattle in which blows and threats were used. They were brought before the President and his counsellors, and severely reprimanded. and a fine of doing extra duty on guard. They made confession, asked forgiveness, promised to do better, and were restored to fellowship.
2 (Sabbath) Had meeting about ten o'clock in the morning. After meeting seven were rebaptized. After confirmation the Camp moved about four and a half miles and encamped for the night seventeen more all Welch were rebaptized in the evening.
3 Crossed over the North Fork of the Platte. travelled about twelve miles and encamped at Renshaw Trading Post. among the Sioux Indians. Hundreds of them with their Tents covered with skins are here, several visited our Camp and made some small trades with us.
4. Moved early this morning. travelled about four miles and came up with Elder Bensons Camp. We encamped near by him. tarried through the day. some of the Camp setting waggon tire. Washing. Baking repairing waggons &c. Some of the Camp returned to Renshaw [Reshaw] Trading Station, and purchased some twenty five Buffalo Robes. Pasture very poor. Cattle looked bad. was informed that some fifteen Hundred Indians had <died> of the cholera. of the Sioux tribe &c. during the present year.
5. Travelled about fifteen miles. passed some traders encampment. stop[p]ed a short time at Noon set three waggon Tires, and encamped about two miles beyond Fort Laramie[.] During the day we passed the Graves of three Gold Diggers. all from the State of Missouri we believe. The wolves had disinterred one. Stoves. broken plows. pieces of waggons. Iron &c. lies strewed along the roads. I visited the Fort the following Morning. purchased twenty eight pounds of Bacon. at ten cents per lb. and carried the same. on my back to Camp some two miles
6. Ten miles completed our Journey to day. Roads tolerable good except some steep descents. pasture quite good in some places. indiferent in others. passed the Graves of two more Gold Diggers; But the wolves had made inroads upon them. Our Cattle withstand the Journey quite well. and the Camp enjoys tolerable Health.
7. Journeyed twelve miles. roads very hilly and rough in some places being a new Road from the one travelled by the Pioneers in 1847. We took it in order to shun the Black Hills. Kept near the River to obtain pasture &c. Pasture quite indifferent at present. Passed the grave of a Mrs. Moss from Galena Ill died July 12th 1849. Aged 25 years.
8. Set four Waggon Tire this morning. Started quite early this morning. travelled about ten miles, overtook Capt. Richards Company encamped by the North Fork of the Platte repairing their Waggons &c. We passed them and encamped about four miles beyond near to a bold and commanding Ridge of Bluffs. and two excellent springs of pure running water. which I names (and entered upon the Journal of the Camps) Clarkes Bluffs and Welcome springs. in honor of the name of the President of the Camps, Isaac Clarke, and pure water was "welcome" indeed to the Camps.
9. (Sabbath) Last evening. Hugh Davis (Welch) wandered off from the Camp. He was
was about seventy years of age, and quite infirm. search was made for him until about three o'clock this morning, with Lanterns on Horseback, fires built upon the mount near the Camps, but without success. This morning the greater part of the Camp turned out. scoured the hills &c but unsuccessful. about noon word came to us from Capt Richards' Camp. which had passed on ahead in the morning. that Bro. Davis had been found by them about five miles ahead safe. having tarried in the Hills all night. In the afternoon the Camp moved about three miles, and encamped. having set four waggon tires in the morning. A waggon took fire in Camp last evening but was soon extinguished. This morning a woman in Camp accidentally discharged a loaded Pistol. The ball passed through the waggon top of Sister Abbott near by Just missing her head, and another sister's in the same waggon.
10. Travelled about twelve miles. after repairing a waggon axle. that was ran into and broken[.] Just as the Camp was moving this morning, found a good camping place, rained in the afternoon and evening, weather quite cool next morning
11. Crossed the Platte again this morning, pursued our Journey fifteen miles over rough roads(,) came in sight of Capt Richards Company. Just before we karalled, found pasture middling[.] Killed one Antelope and a Deer yesterday and one Antelope to day. Saw plenty more.
12. Thirteen miles made to day. less on our Journey. Crossed the River Platte again and encamped near by Capt. Richards Co. on the Banks of the Platte. plenty of wood and pasture. Killed two antelope to day.
13 Camp did not move forward. being a good place for our cattle to feed. Camp busy in washing, baking[,] unloading, cleansing and repairing waggons, reset twenty four waggon tire(s). Capt Richards Company moved early this morning, Elder Bensons passed us this afternoon. Our Camp in general enjoys good health, and spirits. and our cattle withstands the Journey very well. Not a single death of man or beast has occurred among us, indeed we have been blessed, and reason to be thankful. we are now about six hundred miles from Winter Quarters.
14 Day quite warm, roads dry and dusty, travelled about eleven miles and encamped near Deer Creek. Killed two antelope and Buffalo, and was brought into Camp after dark while the President and his Counsellers were determining a case. between Phineas Daily. and Isaac Nash. After that was disposed of, President Clarke Joined in the bands of Matrimony. William Clarke, to Miss Eliza Thomas, (both Welch). I lost a cow that strayed away yesterday
15. Travelled eight miles, encamped early (on account of feed for our cattle) on the Banks of the Platte, where some of the Gold seekers had encamped previously. Waggon wheels and trees. bands. &c lied strewed over the ground, gathered up two waggon wheels, and placed on a waggon. in place of two deficient ones.
16. (Sabbath) Travelled ten miles, passed over dusty roads. weather quite hot--found a very good Camping place, on the Banks of the Platte. Recovered my Cow again to day. hired Br. P. Daily to go ahead to Capt Richards Camp. and endeavor to find her, which he did. In the evening held a council with the President
17 Travelled fifteen miles on our Journey to day. encamped near the upper crossing of the Platte near Elder Bensons Camp. cattle herded together. passed some Gold seekers graves, one the wolves had disinterred; the skulls and several other bones lied strewed around the grave. a sad and sorrowful sight indeed. to think and reflect upon. My daughter Martha [Ann Appleby] Aged fourteen years (nearly) fell under the fore wheels of one of my waggons to day and ran over both her legs, without scarcely hurting her. only grazing the skin although some two thousand pounds weight was on the waggon[,] and ground hard[.] A Providential escape indeed
18 Took our course on a new Road this morning. after crossing the Upper Ferry of the Platte, in order to attain feed for our cattle, and shun the poisonous springs on the old route; travelled about ten miles found good pasture, roads quite rough. Left Elder Bensons Camp at the Ferry, overtook Capt Richards Company. A child of Capt. Case was ran over to day, but not seriously hurt.
19 Nearly eighteen miles completed to day without food or water for our cattle over sandy and dusty roads, encamped at Willow Springs about eight o'clock at night. One of my young oxen gave out, had to leave him behind about five miles from Camp, returned next morning early, found him dead and partly devoured by the wolves. The Bones of the Gold seekers Cattle, lies strewed along the road being in the neighborhood of the poisonous mineral springs. I saw the bones of seven or eight oxen lying in one heap.
20. Walked this morning about Eleven miles before breakfast, after my young ox heretofore referred to, saw plenty of wolves.—Camp travelled some sixteen miles. Roads very sandy. cattle tired. no food during the day, encamped at night on the Margin of Grease Wood Creek. Capt Richards Camp near by, pasture middling
21. Camp moved some four miles, on the Banks of the Sweet Water. where pasture was better, and Camped with Capt Richards Company. The celebrated "Independence Rock" near by. Br. David Fullmer arrived in Camp in the afternoon with some fifteen waggons, and upwards of sixty yoke of oxen with about twenty teamsters from the Valley of the Great Salt Lake. That the President of the Church had sent to our relief. Several yoke of Cattle waggons and Teamsters being left behind at the third crossing of the Sweet Water, to Hunt, and recruit until the Camps Came up.
22. Sent out several yoke of Cattle early this morning to meet Elder Bensons Camp and assist him into our Camp. he being some six miles behind on Grease Wood Creek[.] Another one of my finest and best oxen, died suddenly this morning. caused supposed murrain, caused by Alkali or Saleratus. One Cow also sick, but by good nursing she recovered. Several other Cattle in Camp were sick also. The relief Company from the Valley lost eleven head of their best cattle before reaching us. I was busily engaged in writing Dispatches for the Camp while here.
23 (Sabbath) Camp moved forward some six miles. G.A. Smiths Camp at the Base of Independence Rock (west side) gathered what Saleratus we wanted. from the Lakes where there were acres of it together that covered the ground in some places, one foot thick. made a disposition of the Cattle, teaming &c sent to our relief to each Camp. Elder Bensons Camp being foremost ahead. Capt. Richards next. ours last one in the rear.
24 Sent our Express for the Valley by Br[s]. Fullmer. & I. Young. Camp lay still on account of about thirty head of our cattle strayed away and turned back last evening. found a part of them to day. sent three horsemen in the evening after the remainder. Among the missing was one of my best Cows. We came near having a stampede in the evening. about eleven o'clock yoked up the Cattle, chained them &c.
25. Our Camp moved forward about seven miles. passed near the Devils Gate. a chain through the Mountain where the Sweet Water runs. the Rocks on either side are about four hundred feet perpendicular. found better pasture to day. I shot three ducks.
26. Travelled about ten miles. roads heavy. sandy and dusty, weather hot. found quite good pasture. Br. W. Draper lost a fine fat Cow last evening. I shot three more Ducks to day.
27 Twelve miles completed our days Journey. left the old road and went a new route in the afternoon to shun the heavy sands, found the new one quite heavy. Cap Richards Camp some two miles ahead of ours, E. T. Bensons a few miles ahead of Capt Richards, all on the Banks of the Sweet Water River. I shot two Sage Hens and one Hare. Just before we encamped in the afternoon.
28. Our Camp moved only three miles, and encamped again on the Sweet Water, where feed was plenty in order to let our cattle recruit. I went afishing caught a fine parcel. Had meeting in the evening. Capt Richards Camp having moved on.
29 Pursued on our Journey ten miles. pasture indifferent. roads sandy. wind blew high in the evening. I killed two Hare in the morning, was taken quite unwell with Diaahrea.
30 (Sabbath) Camp moved early. wind blowing quite a gale from the West. soon after we started on our Journey it changed to North by East, and commenced snowing, raining and blowing. so it rendered our travelling cold and disagreeable. Cleared off in the afternoon quite pleasant. camped on the Banks of the Sweet Water. Ford No. 5, having travelled about eighteen miles, and 759 miles from Winter Quarters. Saw several Wild Geese during the day feeding in the "Saleratus meadows" around the Springs.
Oct. 1 Bro. Stod[d]art and company of horsemen, who had been after the cattle that strayed from our Camp at Independence Rock, heretofore refered to, returned this morning a little passed [past] twelve o'clock, with all the Strays, except my Cow, which they did not see. They having travelled some one hundred and fifty miles. going after them and returning before they overtook us. Camp moved to day about nine miles. Weather quite cold froze ice some one inch and a half thick. last evening. I shot three ducks during the day.
2 Travelled fourteen miles, weather quite cold. Just before night it commenced snowing and blowing severely, and continued for about thirty hours, freezing. every thing it touched until the snow in some places was about three feet deep, about 23 head of Cattle died, in our Camp, 17 Head in Ezra T. Bensons, in Capt. Richards 22 head. Their Camps being about three miles ahead of ours, on Willow Creek, on the South side of the Wind River Chain of Mountains, and on the South Pass. Our Camp. was on a Branch of the Sweet Water. I lost one ox and a Cow in the Storm. and another Young Steer, nearly exhausted, [h]as perished. Indeed it was a trying and sorrowful time so cold that chickens and pigs &c froze to death. in the Camp, and froze the Sweet Water River near so hard that I crossed over on the ice. Women and children had to lie in Bed in their waggons to keep from perishing, during the whole time. nearly. with only a piece of bread, or a few crackers perhaps to sustain nature. while the winds howled through our Camp. It was a sorrowful sight to behold our Cattle. (after the storm abated) one by one lying cold and dead among the willows. along the Creek. on which we were camped. A great many of them wandered off during the storm. about five miles to the Sweet Water River. where they done quite well for feed, and withstood the storm. and where we found them safe after the Storm had abated.
5 The storm having ababed [abated] we collected the remainder of our nearly perished Cattle together and travelled about five miles. through the snow, over the Plains, (being at an altitude of some six thousand feet) to the Sweet Water River, in order to find pasture for our Cattle. Weather intensely cold.
6. Camp moved about six miles. crossed over the Sweet Water. and Camped on the Plains. where the snow was scarce, feed tolerable, wild sage for fuel, and snow for water and use, as none but Saleratus water was near. Weather quite cold.
7 (Sabbath) Weather more moderate. cattle somewhat improving, travelled some fourteen miles, crossed over the South Pass, and encamped about three miles beyond the Pacific Springs. cattle much exhausted. Saleratus water issuing from Springs here is plenty. We here saw the Grave of a Gold Digger, one E. Dodd (as the Head board lying near the grave informed us) from Galatin County Mo. Died July 19th 1849. of Typhoid Fever. The wolves had completely disinterred him. The Pantaloons, shirt, &c. in which he had been buried, lied strewed around the grave. His under Jaw bone lay in the bottom of the grave. with the teeth all complete. and one of his ribs. on the surface of the ground near by. The only remains of him discernible.
It is believed he was the same "Dodd" that took an active part, and was a prominent Mobocract in the Murder of the Saints at Hauns Mill Mo. If so it is a righteous retribution. But he is not the only one whose graves and remains, believed to be Mobocrats. that have been observed along the Road. over these boundless plains.
8 Moved slowly eight miles. Camped on Dry Sandy. E.T. Bensons and Capt Richards Camps behind, pasture tolerable, cattle weak from the effect of the storm, water poor impregnated with Saleratus. Another of my cattle fell down in the yoke to day from the effects of fatigue and weakness.
9 Travelled fourteen miles, Camped on Little Sandy. E.T. Bensons Camp near by. day quite warm. no snow to be observed. except on the Mountains, water quite good. Willows for fuel.
10 Camps of E.T. Bensons and Capt Richards. passed on ahead, our falling in the rear[.] We travelled about eight miles, and encamped. E.T. Bensons Camp broke up into Tens. this morning in order to facilitate their travelling through the Kanyons [canyons] in the Mountains, one Ten Capt [Gashum C.] Case from G.A. S[mith] Camp. moved out also, and went ahead[.] I wrote despatches for the Valley this morning, road quite rough and sandy[.] pasture poor, weather quite pleasant.
11 Fourteen miles travelled to day. Camped on Big Sandy again, along with Capt Richards' Company experienced a slight shower of thunder rain and haile, sent Bro. B.T. Stodart and John Lawson. ahead to day with Despatches from the Camp to the President in the Valley. roads rough and sandy. pastures indifferent and scarce
12 Thirteen miles travelled to day over barren Plains, snowed in the morning[,] winds blew quite hard all day, Weather cold. Crossed over Green River. and Karalled, along with Capt Richards Camp, about one and a half miles below the Ford on Green River.
13 Six miles the Camps moved. and Karalled together again on the Banks of Green River on account of pasture for our cattle. Had a slight fall of snow in the evening with sleet. Weather quite cold. GA Smith lost one of his best oxen last night found dead this morning-cause bloody Murrain. I shot three Hares this forenoon.
14 Ground this morning covered with snow, sun soon made it disappear. Travelled about fifteen miles. Camped on Blacks Fork, with Capt Richards Camp again.
15 Weather cold this morning, wind high. GA Smiths Camp moved about six miles and encamped on Blacks Fork again. Capt Richards Company broke up into ten's, and went ahead of us, E.T Bensons Company some fifteen miles ahead. Shot two Hares
16 Fifteen miles our Camp travelled, roads good. Weather more moderate. but plenty of snow on the mountains, to be seen ahead of us. Our cattle are improving from The effects of the storm. Mountain grass plenty and hearty for cattle. I feel tired and quite exhausted, as I have not rode three miles since we came on the Sweet Water. and some time before. indeed I have walked hundreds of miles on this Journey and hunted game. in order to supply my family with meat.
17 Moved forward fifteen miles again to day. Encamped near Bridgers Fort. Weather cold. Several of the boys and girls from Camp. went to Bridgers in the evening. by his invitation and had a Ball. He treated them Kindly with raisins. sugar. Tea &c E T Bensons Camp left there during the day. as also Capt. Richards
18 Left Bridgers early this morning, weather quite pleasant. roads rough. stony. and mountainous. Camped after travelling about thirteen miles. near Muddy Fork. cattle tired, all the other Camps ahead of us. The Mountains on the south of us are covered with snow, and their peaks in some places are towering into the clouds, capped with perpetual snow
19 Seventeen miles (Karalled [corralled] on Sulphur Creek) completed our days Journey again. having crossed over a Mountain at an altitude upwards of eight thousand feet above the level of the seas, day quite pleasant. found one Ten of Capt Richards Co. and one do [ten] of ET. Bensons encamped on Sulphur Creek. Here are oil springs. tar springs &c. which will burn like rosin. Camp gathered considerable quantities of the tar. for the purpose of using on their waggons. to supply the place of grease. It answered a very good purpose.
20 Pursued our Journey seven miles, crossed over Bear River, camped early, near a cold spring of water, in order to rest our Cattle, pasture plenty.
21 (Sabbath) Travelled fourteen miles to day. over high mountains, and down deep. and steep ravines. Camped at night in the Valley leading into Weber River, day beautiful and warm. passed Reddings Cave Last evening. Bro. Robert Pierce (formerly of Chester Co. Pennsylvania) Sessions & Green from Salt L. City arrived at our Camp. with waggons and horses on their way to the States. They left early this morning and pursued their Journey. and we ours. Had meeting in Camp in the evening
22 Twelve miles made off of our Journey to day. Camped in Echo Kanyon [Canyon], cattle tired their feet sore. Roads bad. ditches. Ravines. mud. mire &c. plenty. Day fine. One of my oxen strayed away this morning. The Company proceeded on. I with my family (and waggons) tarried behind. hunting for him, after about an hours search found him in a Ravine near by. We then pursued on and overtook the Camp.
23 Moved early soon met a number of Brethren from the Valley, bound for the States with Teams, some for transporting goods &c from the States to the Valley. Bishop Hunter among them with means to gather up the Poor from Iowa &c to bring on to the Valley next year. Kinkead. of the Firm of Livingston & Co. at Salt Lake City were also along with them. on his way to St Louis Mo. to purchase goods for the Valley[.] among the number bound for the States I recognized. besides Br. Hunter. I.M. Grant. E.D. Wooley. AB. Smoot &c. Soon after we met Br. John Taylor. Erastus Snow. Lorenzo Snow and F.D. Richaards of the twelve. and Bros. Pack, Green, Toronto &c bound on missions to different parts of the world. viz: To Sweden, Denmark, Scotland, France, Italy &c. another company of Elders had left the Valley for San Francisco. California--Sandwich Islands &c. These last Brethren we met. addressed us a short time each. We bid them farewell with hearts full of love and blessings, we left them, and they us and each pursued on our Journey. We travelled some ten miles, passed out of Echo Kanyon [Canyon], down Weber River, crossed over the same, and Camped near the Ford[.] (day beautiful and warm) being about forty miles from Great Salt Lake City.
24 Made some ten miles progress over mountainous rough and sidling roads overtook E.T. Bensons Camp. in the afternoon we met a recruit of Cattle from the Valley with Bro. E.F. Sheets and Wright. and in their care. Bro. Glover formerly of Eastern Pa. that went out to California in the ship Brooklyn in the year 1846. had come over to the Salt Lake a few weeks ago and sent me a yoke of Cattle by Bro. Sheet & Wright to assist me into the Valley as he was informed by Despatches I was coming. Karalled in the evening on the Banks of Kanyon Creek. where we met another recruit from the Valley and GA Smiths brother with potatoes, squashes &c for G.A S[mith]. that had been brought from the Valley
25 Travelled some eight miles up Kanyon [Canyon] Creek over very rough Roads. through creeks &c surrounded on either side by high and lofty mountains. Camped at night where the road leaves Kanyon Creek for the Mountains. it being the trail made by Capt. Hastings. and the Missourians. that perished (or a part of them) in the California Mountains. last winter one year ago. Day beautiful and warm.
26th Travelled ten miles moved slowly up the Kanyon from Kanyon Creek. over very rough roads through mud and mire. creeks &c with steep decents and ascents, and crossed over the highest mountain on our Journey. Altitude 7,245 feet. Encamped on Browns Creek near the foot of the last mountain that intervenes between the Camp and G.S.L. Valley. Clouds could be observed to day to rest upon the snow capped mountains. surrounding the Valley. nearly.
27. Continued on our Journey. over the mountains and deep ravines. through a Kanyon. Dangerous. and bad roads, upsetting one waggon. belonging to the Welch. breaking one axle[.] we arrived at the Mouth of Emigration Kanyon. having travelled about eight miles. From here we had a sight of the Salt Lake, and Great Salt Lake City. The Cattle being within about three miles of us. Some of the Camps stopped at the Mouth of the Kanyon. over Sabbath[.] others who had friends or relatives
in the residing in the city. came in the same evening[,] While others tarried. until Monday or Tuesday following. In viewing the city in all its external bearings and also the surrounding Mountains, Valley's, &c. I was agreeably disappointed in the pleasantness of the place, the number and quality of the Houses, of the Productions of the earth, wheat, corn, vegitables &c. Industry had extended her hand, and Providence had rewarded the laborers toil. Great demand for labor. and good pay. plenty of Gold, and withall the true religion of Heaven in which the Saints are rejoicing, in faith and works. I feel thankful for my safe arrival at this place of my destination, and the protection of Heavens King, over me and my family. Through all the Dangers, difficulties, privations, snares and deaths. I have been delivered through this toilsome and tedious Journey. I acknowledge the hand of my God in it, and humbly ask forgiveness for all my follies, sins, and imperfections. and thank his holy name through Jesus my Redeemer. Amen. Our Journey from New Jersey to Salt Lake City has been some 3460 miles. from Winter Quarters I.T. Ten Hundred & Thirty. or thereabouts.